Read an item about the HTOB overextending due to the stock Fiero master cylinder being a bit too large. Is this a problem and do you need to restrict the pedal travel to compensate? Also, I asked a while ago about the VSS signal. I do not have a speedometer or cruise on the race car. Do I need to send a signal to the computer to let it know the car is moving? Can I use the F23 sender to do this even though it sends a different signal? I remember not having the sender wire connected at some point and the car ran and drove but that was a long time ago and at my age things get fuzzy after a year or two.
Running the stock 88 V6 computer. Can the F23 VSS sender send it's signal to the ECU? Option is to externally mount the stock VSS driven off of one of the CV tripots via a timing pulley/belt system.
Running the stock 88 V6 computer. Can the F23 VSS sender send it's signal to the ECU? Option is to externally mount the stock VSS driven off of one of the CV tripots via a timing pulley/belt system.
overcomplicating things there... just get a Dakota digital converter box and be done.
You can run the engine w/o the VSS, but you may need to bump the idle speed to ensure it doesn't stall when you clutch in. Not so handy for a street car, but probably not much of an issue for a race car.
The stock Fiero clutch master works just fine... the F23 and the F40 use a very similar (if not the exact same) HTOB and have the same range of motion, but only the F23 group is having over extension issues or issues pushing the release fingers into the clutch disk. This is likely because nearly all the F40 swaps use the same clutch and it was properly researched and confirmed. With the F23 swap, there is a huge amount of variation of clutch types and very few are measuring to confirm fitment before throwing together a bunch of parts.
With the F23, there have been 4 groups of people and their success/issues with the clutch. Installed a clutch w/o spacer and over extended the HTOB (clutch fingers not properly positioned within the HTOB range of motion) Installed a clutch with spacer and pushed the fingers into the clutch disk (used spacer when it wasn't needed) Installed a clutch w/o a spacer and it worked fine. Installed a clutch w/o spacer and it worked fine.
The main take away from this, is that every F23 clutch install needs to be measured to confirm if it will need a spacer (and if so, what size) or not. Don't assume anything.
fieroguru, That is exactly the info I needed in regard to both questions.
I appreciate all the help over the last few weeks with everyone helping me with this project. Great bunch of guys/gals here with a host of info and experience. Not sure what I may run into while reinventing this wheel but I know help is not far away.
Thanks, Bob
Two final questions for the day, where can I get that bleeder Y for the HTOB? and is the Roger Thein connector the best/easiest/cheapest way to connect the hyd. line?
Two final questions for the day, where can I get that bleeder Y for the HTOB? and is the Roger Thein connector the best/easiest/cheapest way to connect the hyd. line?
