I had the stuck shifter issue lately where I had to get into the shifter console and fish out something under the shifter button. At some point while doing this lost power to things like ignition, radio, door locks, windows, hazard lights, horn. Things that still work, interior roof lights, parking lights, door ajar light, CEL, gauges. Checked all the fuses related to ignition, tried charging the battery, couldn't find any obvious problems looking around the shifter console. Any other ideas of what to check? This is an 88 2.8L.
[This message has been edited by DBurrows (edited 09-27-2014).]
Pulled and checked all the fuses on left side, under dash. Is that what your were referring to?
Some other interesting findings - The radio will come on with the key in ACC mode, then if I turn on the hazard lights, they come on but radio goes off. If I then turn the key to run position, the hazards go off again. Starting to wonder if it could be ignition switch related?
[This message has been edited by DBurrows (edited 09-27-2014).]
All the fuses in the fuse block were intact. Checked everything I could under console, it all looked normal, there were 3 occasions that car worked like normal, but couldn't figure out rhyme or reason for it, and it didn't last. Added the ground strap to the EGR solenoid bracket, no change.. Getting 12.3 volts at battery, is there a path to follow or common places to check for ground problems?
The only thing those circuits have in common is Fusible Link A and factory splice S206. But it's unlikely it's the splice since it's not a common problem area.
I would start by checking the power junction block near the battery on the upper frame rail just ahead of the passenger strut tower. It is a common problem area since the two terminal studs and the associated eyelets from the five fusible links that attach to it are exposed to the elements. The corrosion develops between the various eyelets on the terminals and causes problems. Be careful when unscrewing the nuts on the terminals... don't force them too hard because you could end up with the studs spinning in the plastic block. You might try a bit of penetrating oil on the two small nuts first just to be sure. Also, be aware that one of the wires has a double eyelet that links both terminals. Once removed, clean up the eyelets with some emery cloth, fine sandpaper, or a small wire wheel on a Dremel tool. Stick it all back together with some dielectric grease to protect the area from further corrosion.
Just to follow up, went out to work on car again and after double checking fuses, found 20A one that was blown, #3, since I have replaced that it seems to be working correctly again, only weird thing today is headlights not going down....probably not related, hopefully this is all it was and I just missed it.... Thanks for help!
Is that the one for the cigarette lighter? Isn't the horn on the same circuit? I think the problem has to do with the socket, the light bulb circuit it has built in, and it's location under the armrest. I think usually these problems are the result of elbow pressure, but you may have accomplished the same thing by taking it apart.
According to the picture I found, it says tail lights, parking and side marker lights, license plate illumination. Which weren't originally causing problems, but figured it could be a sneak path or something. The other problems may come back if this wasn't the problem, and I was also reading this fuse could be why the headlights didn't go down...
