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  Uh Oh Front & Rear Calipers are binding :( What to do now?

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Uh Oh Front & Rear Calipers are binding :( What to do now? by Alex.07.86GT
Started on: 09-15-2014 05:21 PM
Replies: 5 (115 views)
Last post by: Alex.07.86GT on 09-15-2014 06:35 PM
Alex.07.86GT
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Report this Post09-15-2014 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex.07.86GTSend a Private Message to Alex.07.86GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello Fiero Lovers!!!

As I wait for my gas tank sending unit, I'ved moved on to the Brakes!

Can someone please give me a part number to the tool to turn the Rear Calipers in?? I bought a Cube -no Dice! I rented the tool kit from Pepboys and I was barely abel to use the circle with 1 pin in it but it wasnt a good fit.

Due to binding-up pistons, I need to replace all 4 calipers due to rust & corrosion from sitting 21yrs!

I was flushing them with new brake fluid for a while but only 1 rear caliper came back.

My stock Calipers are Aluminum and I would like the replacement Calipers to be aluminum as well, Is that a good idea??

If so, how do I make sure I get aluminum calipers?? is there a special part number or ??

...and where can I get the best price on Rebuilt Calipers??

Thanks in Advance!!!

These links are very helpful! Thank You Fiero Cave!!
Rear Brakes

[This message has been edited by Alex.07.86GT (edited 09-15-2014).]

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paulcal
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Report this Post09-15-2014 05:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for paulcalClick Here to Email paulcalSend a Private Message to paulcalEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Replace the rubber brake lines as well. They can degrade inside and cause binding as well.
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Ponnari
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Report this Post09-15-2014 05:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PonnariSend a Private Message to PonnariEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You really don't need the tool, For the rears, undo the e-brake cable at the lever that bolts to the caliper, on the back of the caliper, undo the nut that holds the e-brake lever to the caliper,Take the e-brake lever off , this will allow the inner piston to rotate freely. put washer or seals and nut back on the shaft and snug it down lightly with your fingers. Make sure the piston and seal are clean, Then with a C-clamp gently & slowly push the piston back into the caliper enough to get the new pads in. Make sure not to bottom the piston hard in the caliper, this could cause it to stick.

For the fronts, clean the piston & seal and then use the C-clamp to gently push the piston in as mentioned above. Tip, you can also slightly open the bleeder valve on the caliper to ease the pressure as you are pushing the piston back in. You might have to bleed the brakes after that though.

Hope this helps!

[This message has been edited by Ponnari (edited 09-15-2014).]

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Alex.07.86GT
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Report this Post09-15-2014 05:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex.07.86GTSend a Private Message to Alex.07.86GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by paulcal:

Replace the rubber brake lines as well. They can degrade inside and cause binding as well.


Yea so much to do here! 21 yrs just sitting waiting for me to get to it!! I just cant wait to drive it already!!!!

I know I have to change them, but the brake hoses look great! so much better than my original dried out Goodyears!!! (with 13Kmiles)


 
quote
Originally posted by Ponnari:

You really don't need the tool, For the rears, undo the e-brake cable at the lever that bolts to the caliper, on the back of the caliper, undo the nut that holds the e-brake lever to the caliper,Take the e-brake lever off , this will allow the inner piston to rotate freely. put washer or seals and nut back on the shaft and snug it down lightly with your fingers. Make sure the piston and seal are clean, Then with a C-clamp gently & slowly push the piston back into the caliper enough to get the new pads in. Make sure not to bottom the piston hard in the caliper, this could cause it to stick.

For the fronts, clean the piston & seal and then use the C-clamp to gently push the piston in as mentioned above. Tip, you can also slightly open the bleeder valve on the caliper to ease the pressure as you are pushing the piston back in. You might have to bleed the brakes after that though.

Hope this helps!



Thanks!!! Ill have to try that with the rears!! but the fronts were making some noise as I was compressing them! -even with the bleeder open. they werent binding from the knuckle! It was all internal to the piston! I was hoping that if I compressed them then expanded them against the rotor a few times they would clear up! but the fronts didnt clear up yet! I bent my C clamp now so I need a new one to continue :/

[This message has been edited by Alex.07.86GT (edited 09-15-2014).]

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thesameguy
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Report this Post09-15-2014 06:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for thesameguyClick Here to Email thesameguySend a Private Message to thesameguyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Brake hoses usually fail on the inside before they fail on the outside - even if they look great externally they are probably completely wrecked internally. It's not even remotely safe to drive on them, and you may cause issues with your new calipers by using them. They are super cheap, and you might as well replace them now and bleed the brakes once instead of twice.
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Alex.07.86GT
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Report this Post09-15-2014 06:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Alex.07.86GTSend a Private Message to Alex.07.86GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by thesameguy:

Brake hoses usually fail on the inside before they fail on the outside - even if they look great externally they are probably completely wrecked internally. It's not even remotely safe to drive on them, and you may cause issues with your new calipers by using them. They are super cheap, and you might as well replace them now and bleed the brakes once instead of twice.


yes, its amazing that a bad hose can mimic a binding caliper! I sure wish my hoses were causing my caliper problems!!!
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