Ok, Last night driving home at 10pm i got about 1 mile into my drive and out of the blue my clutch pedal decides it will only go half way to the floor. Clearly I cant change gears at this point so I coast into a parking spot asap.
4 months ago and less then 50 miles ago I had the clutch replaced at a reputable auto shop that I know the owner well at. He told me they had the problems bleeding the new clutch and had to put an extended pushrod from another vehicle in to get the clutch working. He didnt understand why he had to do this because he bought all the proper parts to do the job but It seemed to work fin until last night.
I read a few threads with this problem but I never got a clear idea as to what the fix was or why this happends after everything was working fine.
Thanks to anyone that can chip in and help me figure this out.
I would go back to the proper push-rod and work from there. It may be that something was incorrectly assembled, but using the wrong push rod is not going to fix an underlying problem. Perhaps the throw-out bearing is wrong or backwards.
I had a similar problem a year ago: see link. Clutch started to release then pushed back and after the second try the peddle had no give and clutch would not disengage. It may have been caused by not breaking it in enough before I started driving it hard?
There is also a slight change the clutch fork can somehow slip off the throw-out bearing if it is over extended on a Getrag. Happen once to me but don't remember what the clutch felt like at the time and never exactly figured out why it happened.
If they removed the clutch arm on the transmission to replace the throwout bearing, they probably put it on the spline a tooth off. I did it on my car and didn't realize it till I was bottoming out my slave cylinder. Its a big pain to pop the arm off in the car so I made up a longer pushrod to compensate for the distance gained. I'd have a buddy physically look at the slave while you're pressing the pedal and see whats going on. Good Luck
I have to ask, what engine and transmission? There could be some confusion on the garage's part or the parts supplier's part as to the correct clutch kit. This is especially the case with the 86's because that year had every engine and transmission combination possible.
I could never understand why a shop would think that they need to redesign a system that worked before they worked on it and didn't when they got done Seen it too many times (and always)was clutch Wrong part always the cause of problums
87 GT When the shop couldn't get it to work at first they pulled the tranny out again, tried another clutch and a new clutch fork.
The Getrag slave in the 87 requires a short slave pushrod. The long pushrod has caused the slave piston to bottom out at the bleeder end of the bore. It's probably pushing the throwout bearing and fork all the way back against the shaft sleeve seal area. Given a little time and use, all the fluid gets pushed back to the MC and eventually the MC piston won't come back to it's resting point to allow neutral fluid pressure throughout the system. Off the top of my head, I believe the Getrag pushrod is 4 1/2 inches long.