So I've been getting stuff together for my swap this fall so the price doesn't just hit all at once. As I look more and more into in to it I want to move the alternator from the top of the motor. Seen how a few have put it where the a/c comp was but I'm thinking of running a/c. Could it go where the stock 2.8 is? Is there room for it there? And what about the cooling fan thing on trunk? Did y'all remove it? If so I would think it would have more then enough room.
So I've been getting stuff together for my swap this fall so the price doesn't just hit all at once. As I look more and more into in to it I want to move the alternator from the top of the motor. Seen how a few have put it where the a/c comp was but I'm thinking of running a/c. Could it go where the stock 2.8 is? Is there room for it there? And what about the cooling fan thing on trunk? Did y'all remove it? If so I would think it would have more then enough room.
Why do you want to move the 4.9L alternator? If you are concerned with deck lid clearance just use the smaller C130 unit and adapt it to the stock bracket.
------------------ " THE BLACK PARALYZER" -87GT 3800SC Series III engine, custom ZZP /Frozen Boost Intercooler setup, 3.4" Pulley, Powerlog manifold, Northstar TB, LS1 MAF, 3" Flotech Afterburner Exhaust, Autolite 104's, MSD wires, Custom CAI, 4T65eHD w. custom axles, HP Tuners VCM Suite. "THE COLUSSUS" 87GT - ALL OUT 3.4L Turbocharged engine, Garrett Hybrid Turbo, MSD ign., modified TH125H " ON THE LOOSE WITHOUT THE JUICE "
I'm making a custom engine cover that will covet the top and I'm making my intakes on both sides work. I also want to run my a/c, so front of the motor won't work.
The question isn't if it will fit in the low/rear location, but if you will have to notch the passenger side frame rail to do so. The issue is the frame rail angles towards the engine as you go towards the rear and it bulges out quite a bit as you get closer to the rear cradle bolt. The only picture I have showing belt clearance to the frame is at the crankshaft centerline and doesn't show the needed area.
The LS4 needs a frame rail notch to mount the alternator in the low/rear position and the belt placement vs. frame rail is about 1/2" closer to the frame rail. Here is the LS4 belt path vs. frame rail picture:
The tensioner in this location would clear the frame rail by about 1/8", but an alternator in this location would be much further to the rear and that's right where the frame rail starts to bulge.
I used a scale on the water pump bolts to show the general location of the idler and clearance to the frame rail:
Here you can really see where the frame rail bulges into the engine bay further:
Now you "might" be able to get it to fit w/o a frame notch on a 4.9, but you will likely have to shift the engine/transmission to the DS and as far forward as possible to accomplish it. If you run a manual transmission, you also have to be concerned with axle movement at full compression and make sure the axle doesn't hit the alternator.
In addition to what has already been written, a low mount alternator will need to be snuggled up near the exhaust for axle clearance. Not a good scenario for long lived performance. Replacement would be a challenge as well.
I have a Formula and an 88GT, 4.9 both with the stock 4.9 alternator in the stock location. No problem closing the trunk lid. No clearance issues. Changing the alternator only takes a few minutes too.
I left it in the stock location, without dropping the engine/tranny mount height at all. You have to remove the one torsion rod since it hits the alternator. You can leave the other and then add a hatch strut. There is still room above it with no interference with the hatch.
I want to build an engine cover that is also part of a custom intake that draws fresh air from BOTH sides of the car. I also don't like the looks of the alt on top.