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Relocate Alternator 4.9 question by racingfortheson
Started on: 08-22-2014 01:57 AM
Replies: 13 (591 views)
Last post by: racingfortheson on 09-01-2014 06:22 PM
racingfortheson
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Report this Post08-22-2014 01:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for racingforthesonSend a Private Message to racingforthesonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I've been getting stuff together for my swap this fall so the price doesn't just hit all at once. As I look more and more into in to it I want to move the alternator from the top of the motor. Seen how a few have put it where the a/c comp was but I'm thinking of running a/c. Could it go where the stock 2.8 is? Is there room for it there? And what about the cooling fan thing on trunk? Did y'all remove it? If so I would think it would have more then enough room.
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Dennis LaGrua
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Report this Post08-22-2014 09:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Dennis LaGruaSend a Private Message to Dennis LaGruaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by racingfortheson:

So I've been getting stuff together for my swap this fall so the price doesn't just hit all at once. As I look more and more into in to it I want to move the alternator from the top of the motor. Seen how a few have put it where the a/c comp was but I'm thinking of running a/c. Could it go where the stock 2.8 is? Is there room for it there? And what about the cooling fan thing on trunk? Did y'all remove it? If so I would think it would have more then enough room.


Why do you want to move the 4.9L alternator? If you are concerned with deck lid clearance just use the smaller C130 unit and adapt it to the stock bracket.



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Arns85GT
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Report this Post08-22-2014 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Arns85GTSend a Private Message to Arns85GTEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


I don't have a/c so this is the way I mounted mine. Works well but the adjuster is pretty tight in there for adjustments.

Arn
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racingfortheson
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Report this Post08-23-2014 12:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for racingforthesonSend a Private Message to racingforthesonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm making a custom engine cover that will covet the top and I'm making my intakes on both sides work. I also want to run my a/c, so front of the motor won't work.
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racingfortheson
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Report this Post08-24-2014 11:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for racingforthesonSend a Private Message to racingforthesonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So for the guys who have done the swap, is there 'room' for the stock alternator in stock location on 4.9 swap?
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fieroguru
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Report this Post08-25-2014 07:06 AM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The question isn't if it will fit in the low/rear location, but if you will have to notch the passenger side frame rail to do so. The issue is the frame rail angles towards the engine as you go towards the rear and it bulges out quite a bit as you get closer to the rear cradle bolt. The only picture I have showing belt clearance to the frame is at the crankshaft centerline and doesn't show the needed area.


The LS4 needs a frame rail notch to mount the alternator in the low/rear position and the belt placement vs. frame rail is about 1/2" closer to the frame rail. Here is the LS4 belt path vs. frame rail picture:


The tensioner in this location would clear the frame rail by about 1/8", but an alternator in this location would be much further to the rear and that's right where the frame rail starts to bulge.


I used a scale on the water pump bolts to show the general location of the idler and clearance to the frame rail:



Here you can really see where the frame rail bulges into the engine bay further:


Now you "might" be able to get it to fit w/o a frame notch on a 4.9, but you will likely have to shift the engine/transmission to the DS and as far forward as possible to accomplish it. If you run a manual transmission, you also have to be concerned with axle movement at full compression and make sure the axle doesn't hit the alternator.

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Report this Post08-25-2014 07:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
In addition to what has already been written, a low mount alternator will need to be snuggled up near the exhaust for axle clearance. Not a good scenario for long lived performance. Replacement would be a challenge as well.
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pdemondo
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Report this Post08-25-2014 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pdemondoSend a Private Message to pdemondoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by racingfortheson:

So for the guys who have done the swap, is there 'room' for the stock alternator in stock location on 4.9 swap?


Yes, there is room for the stock alternator in the stock location.
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Mickey_Moose
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Report this Post08-26-2014 11:15 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Mickey_MooseClick Here to visit Mickey_Moose's HomePageSend a Private Message to Mickey_MooseEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by racingfortheson:

So for the guys who have done the swap, is there 'room' for the stock alternator in stock location on 4.9 swap?


I am going to say no as it is fairly tight in that location with the exhaust manifold and axle...plus being able to get the belt pulley to line up.

HOWEVER - that being said, I never seriously looked at moving it there, so you might be able to shoe horn it in.

Would like to see a picture if someone has done it.

[This message has been edited by Mickey_Moose (edited 08-27-2014).]

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pdemondo
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Report this Post08-26-2014 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pdemondoSend a Private Message to pdemondoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have a Formula and an 88GT, 4.9 both with the stock 4.9 alternator in the stock location. No problem closing the trunk lid. No clearance issues.
Changing the alternator
only takes a few minutes too.
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Neils88
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Report this Post08-26-2014 09:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Neils88Send a Private Message to Neils88Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I left it in the stock location, without dropping the engine/tranny mount height at all. You have to remove the one torsion rod since it hits the alternator. You can leave the other and then add a hatch strut. There is still room above it with no interference with the hatch.

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Report this Post08-26-2014 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for HarryGSend a Private Message to HarryGEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by pdemondo:

I have a Formula and an 88GT, 4.9 both with the stock 4.9 alternator in the stock location. No problem closing the trunk lid. No clearance issues...


Are you still using both trunk lid torsion rods?
What kind of motor mounts are you using?
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pdemondo
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Report this Post08-27-2014 07:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for pdemondoSend a Private Message to pdemondoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by HarryG:


Are you still using both trunk lid torsion rods?
What kind of motor mounts are you using?


The truck lid torsions are still there, not modified. No interference between the torsion rods/hinges and the engine.

The Formula uses the Ed Parks setup so there are some brackets that use round rubber mounts that you can get at any auto store.

For the GT, there are dodge 318 mounts with brackets made to mate the dodge mounts to the engine and cradle.

Both cars use the Fiero manual transmission mounts.
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racingfortheson
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Report this Post09-01-2014 06:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for racingforthesonSend a Private Message to racingforthesonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I want to build an engine cover that is also part of a custom intake that draws fresh air from BOTH sides of the car. I also don't like the looks of the alt on top.
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