I have a 1986 fiero, v6 2.8, the problem is, it starts right up, idles about 2 mins @ 2000 then shuts off. Once I'm on the open road, it runs great. When I come to a stop, it shuts off and won't idle. It drinks a lot of fuel. It runs like a vacuum leak, but I've had it at 3 different garages, had 2 smoke tests and couldn't find any vacuum leaks. I've already replaced, EGR valve, EGR tube, MAP sensor, all injectors, new cap, new wires, new plugs, new ECU. Tank was empty, fuel pump was checked, replaced many parts. Everyone says they can't find anything wrong, but it runs like crap, and won't idle. Any help would be appreciated. I've had the car 4 years, and have only put 400 miles on it, and that's from garage to home, to garage, to home, etc.
It could be several things including a malfunctioning Coolant Temperature Sender (the one that feeds an input to the ECM), or the Idle Air Control valve that is sticking, or a number of other things. Are you getting any ECM codes? Do you know how to check for stored codes? Have you checked to make sure your Service Engine Soon light isn't burnt out? A trouble code would definitely help narrow things down.
[This message has been edited by Bloozberry (edited 08-20-2014).]
Thanks guys my feiro is a 4 speed..and yes if i catch it i can keep it running but when driving its already shut off when i come to a stop sign i have to kick start it before i come to a complete stop. im trying the idle control valve today see how that looks or if it works at all.thank for all the info
I would lean heavily toward the coolant temperature sender. They don't always set a trouble code when they fail. Mine failed suddenly and was so bad that, like you, I had to keep revving the engine at a stop light, and it was smoking like a diesel. Once moving it did pretty good.
I drove to my garage and had them put a scanner on it to find the problem. We then unplugged the CTS and I drove to the auto parts store to get a new one. Had a pretty high idle but the black smoke went away. The scanner showed that the old one was reading something like -28 f and it still didn't set a trouble code.
Another thing that's often overlooked is the Intake Air Temp Sensor in the side of the filter canister. Because it's tucked out of the way, we just don't think about it. You can test all your temperature sensors with an ohmeter and this chart:
yes when the engine is off but the key is on the lite is on but its not on other wise. but my oil gauge jumps all the way up when i start it upand while its running.......so if i pull the plug on the canister it mite run better if its shot rite thats easy to try if that rite.....ok guys il get back to u as soon as i get to try a few things you sugested. thanks for the info.
No. Pulling the plug on the canister disconnects the intake air temp sensor. The coolant temperature sensor is in the passenger end of the lower intake manifold, just above the top of the timing chain cover and water pump and almost straight below the thermostat housing neck. It sits vertically and points at the left rear wheel well. You will need to remove the EGR solenoid for easy access. It has an oval 2 wire harness going into it. Maybe phonedawgz has a picture he can post. I'm away from home and don't have access to my PC files.
ok guys this is what i learned in the past few wks. i changed the icv that didnt change the way it idles or runs at all i took it to have the codes read on a lap top but it shows no codes! it was smoked again no vacume leaks also checked the coolent sensor its good but when we boosted the vacume up to 18 at the map it smoothed out any more ideas ....i need help!!!!
we used a tool thats ment just for measuring and boosting vacume it a hand pump with a gauge on it .when we boosted it up to 18lbs it smoothed right out so were now looking at the bottom intake gaskets as the caupret il post more in a few days.