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Rear Brake install Guide? HELP! by broderp
Started on: 08-20-2014 01:40 PM
Replies: 6 (449 views)
Last post by: broderp on 08-20-2014 10:08 PM
broderp
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Report this Post08-20-2014 01:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for broderpSend a Private Message to broderpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hello,
My wifes 87 Fiero rear brake (passenger rear) started to smoke and lock up a few weeks ago. Odd thing is when I took off the tire, the caliper was loose, the brake shoes appeared good but were no where's near the rotor which was completely burned up. The hub spins ok with minimal bearing resistance and no noise. There was also little to no brake fluid in the brake lines when I removed them, but there was no leaks noticed. I also must saythat whe I parked the car after noticing the brakes were getting hot (smelled buring brakes) I took a home to it and did it steam for over 20 minutes before it stopped.

I wasn't sure if it was the caliper or hose line (or both) so I desided to buy new calipers for both rear, new brake lines, brake line clips, new brake shoes and rotors. I bought for both sides.

Being a "Toyota" I've done many brake jobs in the past. The Fiero seems to be slightly different.

Is there a step buy step (general steps) that I should be doing this in? I'm having issues with getting the e-brake lines back into the new caliper thru the large spring. I'm also a little concerned because the caliper (on the driver side- haven't finished the passenger side yet due to waiting on the caliper) with the brake shoes fits a bit too tight from how I'm use to on my Celica's. I have the cars rear on stands and the wheel off. I can still spin the rotors by hand, but I have brake drag. Not hateful, but more than I'm use to.

The ebrake on this thing is unique.. I can't find an adjustment procedure or any write up on hoe to do this. I struggled for over an hour on the driver side to get the cable into the bracket, but am concerned that the other side will be harder due to the tension now on the side I did yesterday. Is it recommended to remove the parking brake cables and 'install them' and tendsion them after the calipers and brakes are in and bled? Am I fighting losing battle attemping to keep the cable as is and install the calipers?

ANY TIP or tricks would be very appreciated. My wifes Fiero belonged to a Pontiac dealers owner as part of his private collection. He apparantly had it zebarted and I'm kind of grateful, as all the covered bolts come off perfectly and there is little rust The car is OEM and is driven less than 500 miles a year. Sorry for rambling... I'm trying to get this out while working.....
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broderp
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Report this Post08-20-2014 01:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for broderpSend a Private Message to broderpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

broderp

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Member since Jul 2011
Just an FYI, I found Ogres site...Awesome stuff but still not tips or guides, unless I missed it.
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TopNotch
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Report this Post08-20-2014 03:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are two things that can cause a Fiero brake to lock up...
a) The piston can get stuck in the caliper. This usually wouldn't "let go", though.
b) The hose connected to the caliper can collapse internally, acting like a one-way valve.

To adjust the e-brake cable on a 84-87 Fiero, look for an adjuster under the rear of the car close to the right-left center. (On 88, it's at the front of the cradle.)
To adjust the e-brakes themselves, you can try this procedure.
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broderp
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Report this Post08-20-2014 03:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for broderpSend a Private Message to broderpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TopNotch:

There are two things that can cause a Fiero brake to lock up...
a) The piston can get stuck in the caliper. This usually wouldn't "let go", though.
b) The hose connected to the caliper can collapse internally, acting like a one-way valve.

To adjust the e-brake cable on a 84-87 Fiero, look for an adjuster under the rear of the car close to the right-left center. (On 88, it's at the front of the cradle.)
To adjust the e-brakes themselves, you can try this procedure.


Thanks for the quick responce and links. Good reading. My Durango had the line collapse and lock the caliper, so I am familiar with this scenario. Not being sure of the issue on the Fiero, I am replacing both (along with rotors and brake shoes).

Based on your responce can I assume that as far as the brake locking issue, I should have that covered.

As far as the e-brake, looks like I can remove all tention from the cables from underneath the rear of the car. (I looked this moring and noticed they were drooping quite a bit from my tugging and pulling last night when I had a time trying to get the cable back into the lever.) This should make it easier to assemble then someone tighten them back up to a proper tension? Correct?


I just got an email that my passenger side caliper arrived. Hopefully this will not take as long as the driver side.


Should I be concerned with how I found the original caliper? (no fluid and loose with good brake pads that were NOT touching the rotor.) I noticed no abnormal wear on the pads, but the rotor was almost a reddish brown color and thinner than the drivers side.

Hate to say it, but the more I read Ogre's web site, the more afraid I am that I am doing something wrong. lol
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Report this Post08-20-2014 04:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TopNotchClick Here to visit TopNotch's HomePageSend a Private Message to TopNotchEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You should probably replace the "thinner" rotor, and actually, replace both rear rotors, since they should be done in pairs. Also, make sure the e-brake cables are not binding (they move when you pull the lever, and the springs on the calipers are able to pull the cables back when you release the lever).
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broderp
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Report this Post08-20-2014 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for broderpSend a Private Message to broderpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by TopNotch:

You should probably replace the "thinner" rotor, and actually, replace both rear rotors, since they should be done in pairs. Also, make sure the e-brake cables are not binding (they move when you pull the lever, and the springs on the calipers are able to pull the cables back when you release the lever).


I'm replacing both side, rotors, calipers, brake lines, brake shoes. I had my son lift the hand lever slowly a few inches and the cables did slide in and out of the sheath. SO I have high hopes this may not be as bad a job to do/ finsih as I believe. I'll be working on it in about an hour when I get home from work.
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broderp
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Report this Post08-20-2014 10:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for broderpSend a Private Message to broderpEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well I think things went OK.

I loosened the e-brake adjuster almost all the way to get me the slack and play to aid installing the cable. (After spending over an hour yesterday on the other side) I am very lucky that this car has no rusty bolts and everything came apart very easily or adjusted very easily.

I had drag from the git-go on the new brake pads and rotors, but was able to turn them by hand so I left it as is. (I'm use to having to pump the brakes after bleeding before I get the pads to touch the rotor or drag)

I then bled the brakes. I sucked all the old fluid from the reservoir as far as I could with my bleeder, and filled it with fresh DOT3 fluid. I drained the passenger rear caliper first (farthest from the booster) then the drivers rear. I then did it them both again. I had to fill the reservoir almost three times, but this way I was sure I got fresh fluid all the way thru the lines.

I then put more undercoating on the bolts and hoses to keep them from rusting and being harder to remove later. I reinstalled the wheels, and lowered the car. Took a slow test drive and came back.. Seemed good.

I then adjusted the e-brake by tightening the adjuster until 4-5 clicks locked the wheels. Releasing the brake allowed the wheels to spin. I then checked it on the drive way and made sure the brakes held it on the hill.

I ran out of daylight, so I will jack up the front and check the front brakes and bleed those lines.

My only concern is that after reading all the write ups and bulletins on the brake adjustment and issues, I had none. I also hear a slight scrapping sound when turning, almost like a dust shield is rubbing the rotor when turning sometimes.


??
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