Compression test was fine, fuel pressure is good, was no spark, but replaced ignition coils and fixed that. Still won't start, suggestions?

What year? What engine?

You do have spark?

Does the tach rise to 200 RPM during cranking?

Any story as to what just happened that it doesn't start? Maybe like it sat for 5 years? Or just ran yesterday?

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 08-12-2014).]

88 2.5 4 cylinder. It sat for three days, was running fine. Had to crank for awhile to start at first, but now won't start at all. It has spark now.

While cranking look down the throttle body. Is it injecting fuel?

It's getting fuel and spark. Here's a question for you. It was running really rough because the egr was stuck open and the mechanic that was working on it blocked it off and said I didn't need it because there is no emissions here. Could that cause the no start?

quote Originally posted by GizmoKershner: It's getting fuel and spark. Here's a question for you. It was running really rough because the egr was stuck open and the mechanic that was working on it blocked it off and said I didn't need it because there is no emissions here. Could that cause the no start?

Good luck with that plan. 87 and up DIS engines often will have problems w/o good EGR.

Why? GM programed DIS ECM to assume a good EGR or engine can, likely will, knock.

OE type EGR listed in... See my Cave, Emissions

EGR = No start? Maybe. Check for other vacuum leaks.

Also See my Cave, DIS Ignition
Bad plugs/wires can cause big problem, Including "fake" EGR problems.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Look through the oil filler cap while someone cranks the engine, to see if the rockers move. If not -- broken timing gear.

I took off the egr and it didn't look like it was blocked off at all, but he said he did and that fixed the previous problem of shaking with low acceleration. Also I cannot find where he put the vaccum line running off the egr.

If the mechanic removed the vac line the EGR solenoid will have an open connection.
.





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Mark
' 85 2m6 3.4PR
In the Great Northwest!

[This message has been edited by NW-Fiero (edited 08-12-2014).]

quote Originally posted by NW-Fiero: If the mechanic removed the vac line the EGR solenoid will have an open connection.

There's no EGR solenoid on the 4-cylinder. Also, the EGR can't be tested by applying vacuum to the vacuum line fitting on it. The only way to test the EGR on a 4-cylinder is to run the engine, slowly increase RPM's, and see if the diaphragm in the EGR valve rises. It is controlled by a combination of vacuum and back pressure, and neither alone can open it.

He put a cap on the vaccum out of the intake I found. Also I found that the injector is not squirting fuel upon cranking, but fuel is making it to it.

How do you know fuel is getting to the injector? Did you remove it? If you remove it right after an attempt to start, you should get quite a squirt of gas (in your face if you're hovering over the throttle body).

That's exactly what I did. Haha minus the squirt to the face, I had a rag. My friend is bringing a multi meter over to see if it's the injector or the relay.

Starting Fluid Spray ....any effect.
.
Sorry missed the 88 Duke. post

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Mark
' 85 2m6 3.4PR
In the Great Northwest!

Relay is good, just tried starting fluid with no effect. Starting to think the injector is actually good, but I didn't see fuel coming out when cranking it and I do believe a cone of fuel is suppose to come out. Also retested the spark and there is none. Ignition module is good, coils, plugs and wires I just replaced. Any thoughts on to what else will cause no spark?

Crank Sensor?

That's exactly what was wrong. Haha. Checked the crank position sensor, aka hall effect switch and it had a hairline crack I missed. Replaced and running like new. Thank you all for your help!