Recently, my 88 GT began to stutter, backfire, and stall under load. It runs fine idleing. I have changed the fuel filter thinking that would help it but it ran fine out of the shop and then began to stall & stutter again. I am getting no check engine light so I am assuming there is nothing logging in the computer. I am planning on replacing the rotor, sparkplug wires, and plugs next. The car has 43000 original miles and ran perfectly fine until this issue starting. The odd thing is that sometimes it runs normal and then will stutter. I push the clutch in and baby it for a moment and then it is fine again. I would think a fuel pump going out would be quick. I am thinking that maybe I have a clogged fuel line or something similar.

Any thoughts from the experts? I appreciate the direction.

Mark

Could you have gotten a bad batch of fuel?

I don't think that it is the fuel. I am now leaning towards the fuel pump from some research on symptoms. I have a quote of about 450 to replace. Is this a fair price? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Check your fuel pressure first, should be between 38-42 psi. Don't just assume something is bad, confirm it first before you throw money at something. 450 seems steep to me. You can buy a new fuel pump for about $60-70. The job itself is not that bad, only about 2 hours tops. If its your first time double it.

[This message has been edited by hiwil88formula (edited 05-21-2014).]

I got another quote for 370. They are going to check it out first so they are not just taking my money. I just don't have the time, tools or talent to try it myself.

Ok. After diagnostics, they are telling me its the O2 sensor and a cracked EGR tube. Does that sound right? The cost for that is estimated in the 500s. And I beleive that is with me providing the parts because they can't get them. Rodney looks like he has a great aftermarket. Anyone used one? How hard are they to replace?

That's about $100 worth of labor to somebody who knows what they are doing. The diagnosis sounds reasonable, and yes. use Rodney's parts.

edit: Okay...add another $100 for the diagnostics they have already done......are you at a GM dealer?

[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 05-22-2014).]

By some weird coincidence I just had the same issue on the same car ('88 GT). No backfires but had that stumbling, gurgling exhaust note and a loss of power. Actually the first time was a couple of weeks ago. Happened in exactly the same way - under load- accelerating up hill. Had to baby it along for a while and had to accelerate very slowly to speed to avoid the stumbling but couldn't maintain more than 50 - 60 MPH. Stopped at my destination and when I left it just completely cleared up. I don't know a lot about the prior history of the car so put a bottle of injector cleaner in the tank hoping that would do the trick. I thought it had until about an hour ago when it happened again. I came here and right away found this current topic...

I haven't had the shop diagnosis of the OP but sounds good to me so I'll have a look at the tube and go with the O2 sensor for now. I do have a couple of question though... The engine in my '88 GT was swapped a few years back with a Camaro 3.4L. Will the Fiero Store or Rodney's EGR tube work for me or is it a different style, length, diameter, whatever? Is there a way to visually verify a bad EGR tube?

Also, should I get the Fiero Store special Oxygen Sensor socket too, or is that just money I can save?
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My rides...
1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic
2006 Harley Sportster
'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.

[This message has been edited by Rsvl-Rider (edited 05-23-2014).]

Well the new EGR tube is on it's way. For those who have not done business with Rodney Dickman I want to let you know that it is a painless and professional an operation I have ever dealt with online. I now know where to go for my parts.

On a lighter note, is there a video on how to replace the EGR tube? How hard is it? I am not the handiest person for car repairs but if it is not that difficult I may give it a try to cut down on the costs. (edited here) Do you have to take off the manifold or can you get to the bolts by removing the rotor cap?

I have other things I would rather spend money on like new shocks.

[This message has been edited by markkrug (edited 05-23-2014).]

yes....you can do it. You just need to learn to twist wrenches by feel as much as sight. This skill comes in handy when you change spark plugs too.