I have an 85 Fiero. I was having problems with the right head light. I replaced the gear/ bumpers with a kit from Rodney. I’ve read through most all the headlight post already. I'm bench testing the headlight now. My question is if I run the headlight up or down and the HTS kicks in, if I leave the source voltage connected, shouldn't the circuit be open and not try to move the motor. If I leave the source voltage the motor keep energizing ever few seconds and the HTS trips again. I've cleaned the contact points and don't want to re-install it (I've done this quite a few times already), until I'm confident that the headlight is working correctly.
After my initial re-install the motor was re-energizing every 4 seconds after turning the head lights off and running the battery down. That's also one of the reasons I want to nail this down before re-installing it (hopefully for the last time).
Look up underneath the knob and see if you can see the rubber D shaped seal. If it's visible, it will prevent the motor from torquing up enough to keep the points open. It should be down inside the top lip of the case halves. Failing to get it installed properly is a common error.
I've had it apart so many times I can almost do it blind folded. Based on your comments I disassemble/ reassembled it 3 more time. I got to be missing something else. I've been careful to align each part on the motor shaft with the groves on the housing.
Any other thoughts. I think it's close to working. I hate to purchase another motor if there is something I'm missing.
With the motor installed, the switch keeps source voltage to the side of the motor that was last operated. The limiter switch opens the points on that side when the motor locks up at the end of travel. If you're satisfied that you have everything in the motor properly installed, try swapping limiter switches between motors. That will tell you if it's the limiter switch. Also look at the brushes on the motor that's giving you problems. Motors will run with only one brush, but can't generate enough torque to keep the points fully open.
There are 7 parts to the video, all are well worth watching and may help you find the problem.
Also, I had same problem on one a long time ago. Turns out the black housing was badly worn where the shaft with the gear on it goes through it. When the motor stopped fully open or closed it would let everything inside shift and cause problems with the points making connection or opening correctly.
Great information guys. I wish I would have found those videos before I started. I should have asked the team beforehand. I'll have some time this weekend to get back into the motor. I don't think I have any parts miss aligned or brushes missing. That kind of leaves the limit switches. The limit switch doesn't look like it could go bad. It just kind of springs into action as the motor draws the post into the limits. There isn't anything bent that I could find. I go through it again. I may want to try a replacement limit switch if it still doesn't function. Any idea where I could locate a limit switch?
Swap the limit switch from your other motor and see if the problem goes with the limit switch or stays with the motor. Limit switches are only available from other motors. The Mall or junkyard. 84-86 motors.
Well I finally got a chance to get back to testing the motor. I pulled the other motor and noticed that the limit switch didn't snap upon hitting the limits. I moved the good one to the motor that wasn't stay stopped at the limit. I tried it once saw some smoke. Pulled it back out and now the good limit switch has lost its snapping when deflected. The limit switch is a bit discolored with some bluing as it appears to have been over heated. Is there any way to put the spring back into the limit switch?
Now I got two motors not running. Where is the mall that people are referring to?
Any ideas on why the limit switch would go bad or over heat? What other test can be done to check the limit switch and motor travel?
The thermal overload (little glass bulb) should have broken the circuit if the points didn't open. When you bench test, are you applying voltage through the motor relay or direct to the motor harness?
Is your car a daily driver? If not and you can be without the motors for a while, send them to me. I'll look them over and if they're toast, I'll transfer your gears to my motors, and if needed, install replacement limiter switches, too.