This is the body panel that goes around the windshield and sunroof. First one I ever got off without breaking it! I want to remove all of this black goop and the left over residue from the windshield molding adhesive for painting but I do not want to use anything to harsh like brake parts cleaner and have it start eating my panel! Also, there is allot of this goop left around the windshield on the car itself still. Can I remove it? Does it have a purpose and should I try to replace any that's not there now? Thanks a bunch! Marc
Utility knife, scraper, and lots of elbow grease. That's the stuff that holds your windshield in, the more you can remove the better.
I figured I couldn't use any chems....bummer! Thanks for the reply. I got what I could already with a utility knife. Elbow grease time! I removed the windshield myself but will be calling Safelite to have it professionally installed back. Should I assume the tech will replace whatever goop needs to be there if I remove it from the car as well?
Utility knife, scraper, and lots of elbow grease. That's the stuff that holds your windshield in, the more you can remove the better.
But not all of it, it is said to be a good idea to leave a thin layer of it for the new adhesive to adhere to and makes a better seal. At least that's what the replacement guys have told me in the last few years. when I was at the factory we used a air chisel with a razorblade type tip on it.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
Just took my roof panel little while ago, What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.
Good Luck Bob
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Just took my roof panel little while ago, What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.
Good Luck Bob That works good with butyl, but not urethane.
Just took my roof panel little while ago, What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.
Good Luck Bob
So a little paint thinner should be okay without eating the panel?
Originally posted by Gokart: I want to remove all of this black goop and the left over residue from the windshield molding adhesive for painting but I do not want to use anything to harsh like brake parts cleaner
It's called "butyl rubber".
The portion on the pillars doesn't seal the windshield. It just keeps that part of the body held in place. In that location, think of it as more of a "glue" than a "sealant".
WD-40 dissolves it. Slowly. And because of that... As suggested above, it's best to get as much as you can off mechanically before resorting to anything chemical.
Originally posted by FTF Engineering: It's called "butyl rubber".
The portion on the pillars doesn't seal the windshield. It just keeps that part of the body held in place. In that location, think of it as more of a "glue" than a "sealant". WD-40 dissolves it. Slowly. And because of that... As suggested above, it's best to get as much as you can off mechanically before resorting to anything chemical.
& Neither Mineral Spirits or WD-40 will hurt the Roof Panel
I wouldn't take off all of the butyl, & I damn sure wouldn't use WD40 unless you want to de-wax any parts you plan to paint several times. You'll have to scrape off the excess windshield urethane. Make sure they use the proper size urethane "rope" to install the windshield - not urethane in a tube as it will not install the windshield at the proper height (level with the roof). Also, make SURE they install a made-in -U.S.A. windshield. The cheap china (& others) have caused several problems including the mirror falling off with part of the glass still attached. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I wouldn't take off all of the butyl, & I damn sure wouldn't use WD40 unless you want to de-wax any parts you plan to paint several times. You'll have to scrape off the excess windshield urethane. Make sure they use the proper size urethane "rope" to install the windshield - not urethane in a tube as it will not install the windshield at the proper height (level with the roof). Also, make SURE they install a made-in -U.S.A. windshield. The cheap china (& others) have caused several problems including the mirror falling off with part of the glass still attached. HTH, ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Oh boy! I woke early this morning and removed it all already Glad I used paint thinner though and not WD. Is there a vendor that sells this rope so I can put it back in myself? I'm thinking about how difficult it will be for the installer to get behind the channels on the back side after I have the sunroof clip re-installed after painting? Also, I have a brand new windshield I was planning on them using. Is there something in lettering on it that says "made in USA"?
Oh boy! I woke early this morning and removed it all already Glad I used paint thinner though and not WD. Is there a vendor that sells this rope so I can put it back in myself? I'm thinking about how difficult it will be for the installer to get behind the channels on the back side after I have the sunroof clip re-installed after painting? Also, I have a brand new windshield I was planning on them using. Is there something in lettering on it that says "made in USA"?
The windshield just drops in from the top - after installing the roof. Any auto paint supplier should have it - probably called a "windshield kit". I THINK the 1/2" rope will be the right size, but I haven't put one in for a while so I'm not 100% sure. You can put the windshield in yourself. Just place the rope around the opening, & lay the windshield on top of it, & pound it down firmly with the heal of your hand(s). Helps to have a friend help you to get it in the right position. If everything is clean, the trim that goes around it will just pop/push into place, & stay without any adhesive. If it's a little loose, you can use 3M black trim adhesive to hold it. The Fiero store sells the correct (& IMO the best looking) trim. The windshield should be marked with a permanent stamp in the lower left corner. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
The windshield just drops in from the top - after installing the roof. Any auto paint supplier should have it - probably called a "windshield kit". I THINK the 1/2" rope will be the right size, but I haven't put one in for a while so I'm not 100% sure. You can put the windshield in yourself. Just place the rope around the opening, & lay the windshield on top of it, & pound it down firmly with the heal of your hand(s). Helps to have a friend help you to get it in the right position. If everything is clean, the trim that goes around it will just pop/push into place, & stay without any adhesive. If it's a little loose, you can use 3M black trim adhesive to hold it. The Fiero store sells the correct (& IMO the best looking) trim. The windshield should be marked with a permanent stamp in the lower left corner. ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
Just about any parts store sells the rope type sealant I have gotten it at NAPA for other cars and they always ask what size, 3/8" or 1/2" I think are the only thicknesses they come in but I could be wrong.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
I still like urethane over butyl. Urethane is harder to work with, but the glass will break before the urethane lets go. I've had factory installed glass fall out with butyl tape. If you go with butyl make sure everything is perfectly CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!
Glad I used paint thinner though and not WD.
