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Anyone know how to remove this goop safely?! by Gokart
Started on: 05-12-2014 07:51 PM
Replies: 17 (398 views)
Last post by: tebailey on 05-13-2014 07:30 PM
Gokart
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Report this Post05-12-2014 07:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

This is the body panel that goes around the windshield and sunroof. First one I ever got off without breaking it! I want to remove all of this black goop and the left over residue from the windshield molding adhesive for painting but I do not want to use anything to harsh like brake parts cleaner and have it start eating my panel! Also, there is allot of this goop left around the windshield on the car itself still. Can I remove it? Does it have a purpose and should I try to replace any that's not there now?
Thanks a bunch! Marc
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tebailey
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Report this Post05-12-2014 08:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Utility knife, scraper, and lots of elbow grease. That's the stuff that holds your windshield in, the more you can remove the better.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 05-12-2014).]

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Gokart
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Report this Post05-12-2014 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

Utility knife, scraper, and lots of elbow grease. That's the stuff that holds your windshield in, the more you can remove the better.



I figured I couldn't use any chems....bummer! Thanks for the reply.
I got what I could already with a utility knife. Elbow grease time!
I removed the windshield myself but will be calling Safelite to have it professionally installed back. Should I assume the tech will replace whatever goop needs to be there if I remove it from the car as well?

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84fiero123
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Report this Post05-12-2014 08:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

Utility knife, scraper, and lots of elbow grease. That's the stuff that holds your windshield in, the more you can remove the better.



But not all of it, it is said to be a good idea to leave a thin layer of it for the new adhesive to adhere to and makes a better seal. At least that's what the replacement guys have told me in the last few years. when I was at the factory we used a air chisel with a razorblade type tip on it.

Steve

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Orig88GT-NC
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Report this Post05-12-2014 09:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCClick Here to Email Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just took my roof panel little while ago,
What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.

Good Luck
Bob

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tebailey
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Report this Post05-12-2014 09:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Orig88GT-NC:

Just took my roof panel little while ago,
What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.

Good Luck
Bob
That works good with butyl, but not urethane.


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Gokart
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Report this Post05-12-2014 09:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Orig88GT-NC:

Just took my roof panel little while ago,
What worked for me was pulling a Chunk off with my fingers then taking that chunk and pressing it onto the next area to lift the stuff (Press & Pull), It is tedious but does get 95%+ off. To get any residual stuff I dampened a shop towel (something disposable) with Mineral Spirits and wipe cleaned (it dissolves the stuff). Very messy if you start with Mineral Spirits before getting the bulk of it lifted off though.

Good Luck
Bob



So a little paint thinner should be okay without eating the panel?
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FTF Engineering
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Report this Post05-12-2014 10:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for FTF EngineeringSend a Private Message to FTF EngineeringEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart:
I want to remove all of this black goop and the left over residue from the windshield molding adhesive for painting but I do not want to use anything to harsh like brake parts cleaner


It's called "butyl rubber".

The portion on the pillars doesn't seal the windshield. It just keeps that part of the body held in place. In that location, think of it as more of a "glue" than a "sealant".

WD-40 dissolves it. Slowly. And because of that... As suggested above, it's best to get as much as you can off mechanically before resorting to anything chemical.
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Orig88GT-NC
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Report this Post05-12-2014 10:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Orig88GT-NCClick Here to Email Orig88GT-NCSend a Private Message to Orig88GT-NCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by FTF Engineering:
It's called "butyl rubber".

The portion on the pillars doesn't seal the windshield. It just keeps that part of the body held in place. In that location, think of it as more of a "glue" than a "sealant".
WD-40 dissolves it. Slowly. And because of that... As suggested above, it's best to get as much as you can off mechanically before resorting to anything chemical.




& Neither Mineral Spirits or WD-40 will hurt the Roof Panel
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post05-13-2014 05:08 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I wouldn't take off all of the butyl, & I damn sure wouldn't use WD40 unless you want to de-wax any parts you plan to paint several times.
You'll have to scrape off the excess windshield urethane. Make sure they use the proper size urethane "rope" to install the windshield - not urethane in a tube as it will not install the windshield at the proper height (level with the roof). Also, make SURE they install a made-in -U.S.A. windshield. The cheap china (& others) have caused several problems including the mirror falling off with part of the glass still attached.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts
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Gokart
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Report this Post05-13-2014 06:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:

I wouldn't take off all of the butyl, & I damn sure wouldn't use WD40 unless you want to de-wax any parts you plan to paint several times.
You'll have to scrape off the excess windshield urethane. Make sure they use the proper size urethane "rope" to install the windshield - not urethane in a tube as it will not install the windshield at the proper height (level with the roof). Also, make SURE they install a made-in -U.S.A. windshield. The cheap china (& others) have caused several problems including the mirror falling off with part of the glass still attached.
HTH,
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts


Oh boy! I woke early this morning and removed it all already Glad I used paint thinner though and not WD.
Is there a vendor that sells this rope so I can put it back in myself? I'm thinking about how difficult it will be for the installer to get behind the channels on the back side after I have the sunroof clip re-installed after painting?
Also, I have a brand new windshield I was planning on them using. Is there something in lettering on it that says "made in USA"?

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Report this Post05-13-2014 07:56 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CsjagClick Here to Email CsjagSend a Private Message to CsjagEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You might try some goo-be-gone
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Tha Driver
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Report this Post05-13-2014 03:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tha DriverClick Here to visit Tha Driver's HomePageSend a Private Message to Tha DriverEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Gokart:


Oh boy! I woke early this morning and removed it all already Glad I used paint thinner though and not WD.
Is there a vendor that sells this rope so I can put it back in myself? I'm thinking about how difficult it will be for the installer to get behind the channels on the back side after I have the sunroof clip re-installed after painting?
Also, I have a brand new windshield I was planning on them using. Is there something in lettering on it that says "made in USA"?


The windshield just drops in from the top - after installing the roof. Any auto paint supplier should have it - probably called a "windshield kit". I THINK the 1/2" rope will be the right size, but I haven't put one in for a while so I'm not 100% sure. You can put the windshield in yourself. Just place the rope around the opening, & lay the windshield on top of it, & pound it down firmly with the heal of your hand(s). Helps to have a friend help you to get it in the right position. If everything is clean, the trim that goes around it will just pop/push into place, & stay without any adhesive. If it's a little loose, you can use 3M black trim adhesive to hold it. The Fiero store sells the correct (& IMO the best looking) trim.
The windshield should be marked with a permanent stamp in the lower left corner.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts
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Gokart
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Report this Post05-13-2014 04:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Tha Driver:


The windshield just drops in from the top - after installing the roof. Any auto paint supplier should have it - probably called a "windshield kit". I THINK the 1/2" rope will be the right size, but I haven't put one in for a while so I'm not 100% sure. You can put the windshield in yourself. Just place the rope around the opening, & lay the windshield on top of it, & pound it down firmly with the heal of your hand(s). Helps to have a friend help you to get it in the right position. If everything is clean, the trim that goes around it will just pop/push into place, & stay without any adhesive. If it's a little loose, you can use 3M black trim adhesive to hold it. The Fiero store sells the correct (& IMO the best looking) trim.
The windshield should be marked with a permanent stamp in the lower left corner.
~ Paul
aka "Tha Driver"

Custom Fiberglass Parts


Thanks Paul

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Report this Post05-13-2014 06:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for TbirdMarcClick Here to visit TbirdMarc's HomePageClick Here to Email TbirdMarcSend a Private Message to TbirdMarcEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK this may sound unbelievable but try a handheld clothes steamer, sold at walmart and other type stores.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post05-13-2014 07:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just about any parts store sells the rope type sealant I have gotten it at NAPA for other cars and they always ask what size, 3/8" or 1/2" I think are the only thicknesses they come in but I could be wrong.

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

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Gokart
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Report this Post05-13-2014 07:13 PM Click Here to See the Profile for GokartSend a Private Message to GokartEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for your know how & advice! Pluses coming up!

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tebailey
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Report this Post05-13-2014 07:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I still like urethane over butyl. Urethane is harder to work with, but the glass will break before the urethane lets go. I've had factory installed glass fall out with butyl tape. If you go with butyl make sure everything is perfectly CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!
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