Long story short, our 88 2M4 refuses to run properly and I was told by a couple members on here to hook up a fuel gauge…even though the tank, sending unit, pump and filter are all new. How do I do this? I have the gauge and the adapter but to put the adapter on, I have to bend the fuel line in such a way that I lose an inch of length. My problem is that the line is bigger (5/8”?) than standard tubing benders will accept, most max out at 3/8”. I don’t want to break/crimp it by just bending it by hand because getting a replacement might be an issue. How have others have done it??? And the line is off the car now sitting on my work bench.
I put my valve down at the fuel filter and ran my hose up and taped the gauge to the back window. Took it all out when I was finished. (Is it as accurate as hooking it up at the TB. That I can't answer. It solved my problem though). Just make sure you tie the hose back so it doesn't get caught up in the pulley's or burn through on the exhaust.
Both type test adapter go fuel filter. See my Cave, TBI Test Adaptor Adapters are not make to be used all the time.
Do Not bent lines. If needed, Remove clamps holding lines and make sure NOTHING will hit them.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Alrighty then! I added the adapter to the exit of my fuel filter, hooked up the gauge, turn the key to on, I hear the pump whining, fuel gauge goes up to 9/10psi, pump shuts off, if I hold down the bleed button on the gauge gas comes out and the gauge drops to 0 but I don't hear the pump kick back on. If I turn the key off, then on again, pump comes on, gauge goes to 9/10, try and start it it cranks, does the same old thing (cough, sputter, fart) but wont start and the gauge drops to 0 while cranking with the bleeder open. Do the same with the bleeder shut and it stays at 9/10. So what does this all mean????? Again I think I've replaced everything that I can and it still will not run worth a damn. Only way to get her to run is if I manually operate the TB (crack open the blade and manually meter the throttle) this will get it to run but it sounds terrible and is obviously not right. HELP!!
Seems like a new pump should do better than 9/10 psi.
according to the cave, "pump should do between 9 and 13 PSI all years" I've got no problem changing out my new pump again but am tired of throwing parts at this car with no results. Not to mention I don't think there's anything left to throw at her that I haven't already...again with no results. I paid $500 for this car and am well past that in parts....and it still wont idle/run.
And just to add; I'm not being snotty but am just at my wits end here with this one....my Formula sat in a field for 8-9 years and she fired right up. Sure it needed some tinkering but it always improved with the new parts, this just stays the same. It's incredibly frustrating.
i read somewhere on here that it went to the TB and "creative bending" of the line was required. 
