I have some air in my clutch line. I can work it out by pumping my clutch pedal then shifting when needed. I would like to work the air out and replace the master/slave. I thought I read a thread with someone saying conect a clear plastic tube around the bleeder valve and work the clutch?? Any thoughts? Not much a a mechanic but I can turn a wrench. 86 V6 5 spd. Thanks in advance.

The bleeder threads will allow air to be pulled in around them, even with a hose installed on the nipple and inserted into a container of fluid. The other problem with pumping is that you break up any air bubbles into tiny ones that later will coagulate to form the original large bubbles.

Pressure bleeding is a good method, but few have pressure bleeders. The method I, and I stress I, have found to be most effective and require the fewest tools is to gravity bleed the system. Tools needed are a jack, 13mm wrench, 13mm socket and ratchet if the bleeder is difficult, and a heavy tool. The ratchet is sufficient if you needed to use it. A large towel to place under the slave for the purpose of catching fluid.

Jack up the drivers side or front of the car until the left front wheel is off the ground. Without a jack, you can place the car on a steep incline at a 45 degree angle with the left front wheel being the highest.

Using a 13mm wrench or socket, loosen then snug the bleeder valve.
Remove the cap on the master cylinder. and using an absorbent cloth, remove all old fluid and black gunk.
Fill the reservoir to the top.
Keep the can of fluid open and handy to refill the reservoir.
Now, using the 13mm wrench, open the slave bleeder and allow the fluid to flow.
Give a few raps on the side of the slave with the ratchet or heavy tool to break loose any air bubbles stuck to the wall of the slave.
Keep an eye on the reservoir and top it off before the fluid level reaches the bottom.
Return to the slave and give it a few raps with your heavy tool.
Do this until you've filled the reservoir for the 3rd time. This allows enough fluid to flow through the system, removing air and filling with new fluid.
When the fluid drops to the FULL line, close the bleeder with your wrench.
Replace the reservoir cap and rubber seal.

I found a DIY home made pressure bleeder on you tube a while back, let me see if I can find it again. it is the best way to bleed hydraulic clutch and brake lines.

Ayup, here is one,

http://youtu.be/Mdcn1USVQ-w

Fairly simple to make and sooooo handy for us Fiero owners! you just need a spare cap that you can drill a hole into for the clutch and one for the brakes as they are each different.

Steve

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

When I changed my slave cylinder I had my neighbor press the clutch to the floor and hold it , I opened the slave bleed allowed it to squirt air And fluid, tightened it and he let off and I repeated this process endless times while makin sure the master was full as he let off each time and walla ! Now it's nicey nice!

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===Always trying to find time to work on cars===
Louis Duet
Baldwin, Long Island, NY
Where driving hard is SOP.
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"Blue" <= '85 Fiero GT
Stock V6---Stock everything. Trying to keep it 'mostly' that way.
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"Boo" <= '81 Delorean DMC-12
The "DuetLorean"
VIN #5835
Stock PRV engine
Robertson Equipped
Neiland/Delman Engineered
Carbed and loving it! (Peugot 604 manifold) ---"Sorry purists"

quote Originally posted by Lou and Blue: When I changed my slave cylinder I had my neighbor press the clutch to the floor and hold it , I opened the slave bleed allowed it to squirt air And fluid, tightened it and he let off and I repeated this process endless times while makin sure the master was full as he let off each time and walla ! Now it's nicey nice!

I haven't done this yet, but that is what I was expecting, just like bleeding brakes...