So I had a pickup coil + ignition module go bad and I rebuilt my distributor. The car idles great so I presume everything was done correctly with the rebuild yet occasionally it will stall at stop lights. Its a daily driver and this usually occurs every other day at the worst possible intersections. I read that if your TCC works you feel a "fourth" gear around 50-60 and I don't think that happens with my fiero. Any diagnostic tips or help is appreciated!
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 04-29-2014).]
Mine did that in 2012; the motor would buck a few times then kill itself when slowing to a crawl, and usually after restarting it would kill itself again when I shifted into drive (only way to limp it home was to drop the trans into drive while holding RPM's up, and hold both feet on brake and gas when stopped). Sticky lockup solenoid causes it.
You can try unplugging your solenoid until you get it fixed, in the meantime; your mileage will just suck.
Yea I've been doing that same thing as well; keeping my foot on the gas and brake at stop lights to prevent stalling. I checked for codes and there are none. The MPG currently is around 17-19 mpg.
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 04-28-2014).]
If it was the TCC, you shouldn't be able to stop and keep in running with your foot on the gas. Sounds like something else.
Well I didn't say that solved the issue. I was just doing that as a preventative on occasion because I thought it might help. All the times I've stalled it was while I wasn't doing that. I'm still not sure if the issue is related to the rebuilt distributor. It would only make sense that one event led to another.
If it was the TCC, you shouldn't be able to stop and keep in running with your foot on the gas. Sounds like something else.
With mine if I let off the gas for any reason after the trans shifted down to first gear, it would stall. Had to apply both brake and gas and keep RPM's over 1500 or so when stopped. Replacing TCC fixed it.
With mine if I let off the gas for any reason after the trans shifted down to first gear, it would stall. Had to apply both brake and gas and keep RPM's over 1500 or so when stopped. Replacing TCC fixed it.
So would this be the case for a totally bad TCC? If it was "sticky" as some called it, could that create the occasional stalling I have?
Okay so I might have a big issue on my hands. I checked my coolant today and it was absolutely GONE, maybe a few dribbles but nevertheless it was far below the add line. I'm concerned the engine may of been over heating for quite some time as it stalled on me all the way home from school and it won't start, now that it's home. I presume I should check my compression along with various other things. Any pointers fiero gurus?
Assume your oil no longer has any properties and get it out of the engine. You may get lucky, but it will be a testament to General Motors if your engine still works.
What was the temperature gauge doing during all this?
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 04-29-2014).]
Assume your oil no longer has any properties and get it out of the engine. You may get lucky, but it will be a testament to General Motors if your engine still works.
What was the temperature gauge doing during all this?
It read like a normal gauge should. It was 195 degree thermostat.
Perhaps it was a leak and not an overheat situation, but with your engine stalling so often I would assume that the pistons were too hot, and you should change the oil.
Maybe not.
[This message has been edited by Gall757 (edited 04-29-2014).]
AHA so I filled the coolant back up, cleaned the IAC, retimed the engine so it idles a wee bit higher, checked the oil, and VOILA it runs. I'm gonna take it out tonight for around a 30 minute drive somewhere to see how it withstands that distance but I tried to simulate situations in which it might stall and I was pretty smooth. Thanks y'all. The situation was looking pretty dire to me.
Another update: I found out I was misreading the oil stick and I've been running 2 quarts less oil than I needed....yes I know....I feel very dumb.
So I had no coolant and low oil. Everything has been put to proper standards now but I drove it for about 45 minutes tonight and I stalled as soon as I turned into my subdivision on the way home. It started right back up but I fear it may of overheated again (despite the thermostat reading about 160 at that moment) because the intake manifold was extremely HOT.
The coolant doesn't appear to have been sucked up from the reservoir either along with my tach randomly pegging down from 2000 to 100 within a second (only happened once about 15 minutes before I stalled and the engine was coasting down a mountain and the actual RPM sound didn't change)....it ran so good till I left to go home....this sucks!!!
How should I proceed now?
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 04-29-2014).]
Okay so I have the thermostat out because my grandfather thought coolant may not flowing. It ran cooler as expected yesterday and I confirmed that the radiator fan works.
Yet this morning it started for 10 seconds then stalled. Do y'all think it may be a sticky TCC?
I tried it but the car wouldn't start still. I read that if the TCC locks up then unplugging it won't help it start. Unplugging it only prevents it from happening again. It worked fine yesterday
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 05-01-2014).]
Okay to put it short the last couple of weeks it's been stalling on me at stop lights. I fixed my ignition system because I had a bad pickup coil/ignition module. I double checked everything there so I don't think it's the issue. My grandfather suggested that the car's been overheating because we found out there was no coolant in the front reservoir and I was 2 quarts low on oil (Yes, I know it's a lot; the dipsticks are terribly difficult to read accurately). Yesterday it ran a little cooler with no thermostat (yet I confirmed it was working by putting it in boiling water). Today the car ran for 10 seconds before it died; it proceeded to not start at all. So here's a few points:
- Radiator works - Thermostat works - Temperature gauge appears to work (the fan kicked on at the designated temp in the manual) - The car idles fine when it's running - I had the distributor rechecked to confirm the module, coil, and timing were all good. - The fuel pump pressurizes as it should - Checked the schrader valve and the fuel pressure seems good. - The IAC was cleaned - There are no codes - Battery is good - my MPG is between 17-19 - Oil and coolant are now up to level
Personally I don't think it was overheating because I never read that from the gauge yet my grandfather keeps telling me the intake manifold shouldn't be as hot as it is. He thinks the issue is overheating, I have an uncle who thinks it might be a fuel issue, and I have another uncle who thinks I should look into the TCC.
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 05-01-2014).]
When you turn the key to start the car, does the tachometer move up a little or just sit there?
Hahaha yea but I'd like to feel their qualified since they have all owned fieros. Anyhoo I'd like to say there is tach movement. I'm not near the car currently.
[This message has been edited by PribanicS (edited 05-01-2014).]
If the tach moves up, your primary ignition is working.....ICM, pickup coil, magnet, and half of the ignition coil.... Then spray some starter fluid in the throttle body to confirm that your secondary ignition is working. If the car runs a little on starter fluid, your problem is fuel delivery, and you should look at the fuel rail and injectors. If it does not run on starter fluid, look at the ignition coil, wires, rotor and cap, spark plugs.
If the tach moves up, your primary ignition is working.....ICM, pickup coil, magnet, and half of the ignition coil.... Then spray some starter fluid in the throttle body to confirm that your secondary ignition is working. If the car runs a little on starter fluid, your problem is fuel delivery, and you should look at the fuel rail and injectors. If it does not run on starter fluid, look at the ignition coil, wires, rotor and cap, spark plugs.
Okay I'll try it when I get home from school. If it runs with the starter fluid would I still have a fuel problem; I checked the schrader valve and it shot up to the trunk.
Yes, if the car runs on starter fluid, you have a fuel delivery problem. You have pressure in the fuel rail, but you still may have a fuel problem with the injectors.
I went thru the sane problems on my 88 Gt with only 32000 miles.
High Idle and stalls when put in Drive.
When stopping I would put into Neutral and keep revs at 1000, then shift to drive to go.
*Changed the TPS...Code read bad voltage...same problem *Changed the IAC...same *Changes O2 sensor...same Code read bad voltage on Temp Sender to ECM...(under thermostat /filler)
*Changed temp sender to ECM
WHA LA ...it works...Idles at 700...better off idle response...NO STALL.............Life is Good !
I went thru the sane problems on my 88 Gt with only 32000 miles.
High Idle and stalls when put in Drive.
When stopping I would put into Neutral and keep revs at 1000, then shift to drive to go.
*Changed the TPS...Code read bad voltage...same problem *Changed the IAC...same *Changes O2 sensor...same Code read bad voltage on Temp Sender to ECM...(under thermostat /filler)
*Changed temp sender to ECM
WHA LA ...it works...Idles at 700...better off idle response...NO STALL.............Life is Good !
Well my idle sounds fine and I stalled in park as well as drive.
. Everything has been put to proper standards now but I drove it for about 45 minutes tonight and I stalled as soon as I turned into my subdivision on the way home. It started right back up but I fear it may of overheated again (despite the thermostat reading about 160 at that moment) because the intake manifold was extremely HOT. 
