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Fiero No.2 - 88formula 3800/F23 swap by ignorant prodigy
Started on: 04-27-2014 02:19 PM
Replies: 134 (4554 views)
Last post by: ignorant prodigy on 05-30-2020 12:09 PM
ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-08-2020 08:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
ok scratch that entire post. I have never used these kind of lug nuts/wheels.. that have the shank
I didnt realize the nuts slip inside the hole..

i'm a dumbass..

well.. at least i realized before I went buying longer studs... there's that... :/
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wftb
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Report this Post04-08-2020 09:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You had me really confused as well. But you figured it out before you wasted a bunch of time and money. The nuts on my Kazerra wheels are the shoulder type as well. I like them , no long studs needed and lots of thread engagement.

------------------
86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
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Report this Post04-08-2020 09:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
if you're ever concerned about thread engagement, you can put ARP wheel studs in, thats what I did on my car because I've fought that battle and lost, and won't lose again

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

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http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-08-2020 09:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wftb:

You had me really confused as well. But you figured it out before you wasted a bunch of time and money. The nuts on my Kazerra wheels are the shoulder type as well. I like them , no long studs needed and lots of thread engagement.



Nice, do you have a pic of those wheels?


 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

if you're ever concerned about thread engagement, you can put ARP wheel studs in, thats what I did on my car because I've fought that battle and lost, and won't lose again



Note taken. Hopefully I don't have any issues.. pretty sure these were designed for the 84 fiero's.. I don't know enough about the differences from 88 to know if there's any issues. I figure they'll stick out a bit in the front but I'm ok with that.
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wftb
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Report this Post04-08-2020 09:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post


Car is up on the hoist now so hard to get a decent pic. I do not think these are made any more, I bought them around 2004 or so. They are 16" but only weigh 15 lbs. Lightest 16" I could find at a reasonable price.

[This message has been edited by wftb (edited 04-08-2020).]

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-08-2020 09:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
nice! looks good with the caliper too.
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-11-2020 03:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
ok so it moves!

I can't get it into 2nd or reverse though. Haven't tried the others.
I thought maybe the cables need adjusting?
Or maybe the clutch needs to be bled better?

clutch pedal looks good to me though.


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Report this Post04-19-2020 06:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I ordered a Rodney Dickman clutch master. I messed with the shifter linkage but couldn't find any issues with it. If it's not the clutch fluid (which could be original for all I know) I may have to pull out the transmission, not something I want to do.

The weather has been such crap I haven't had much chance to work on it. Need a garage.

After I test drove it I spent some more time bleeding the heat exchanger, and I picked up a smaller battery to fit in the tray up front.
However I went to try and start it earlier in the week and all it did was this:



I suspected the ICM, and after some help on FB determined it was at least something to do with the spark. I pulled a plug out and had the wife crank the engine.. sure enough no spark.
After I inspected the wires, some were exposed but didn't seem to be broken.


So I went to the junkyard. I pulled an ICM, 3 coils (plus the bracket), and the whole ICM harness. $25 bucks.
The only bad news is one of the little bolts holding a coildpack on was rusted so bad I couldnt get my socket to grab. So I had to dremel it off.

I disconnected the ICM and plugged in the junkyard one, leaving everything else the way it was. It fired right up. The harness is kind of a ***** to get to so I figured I'd just band-aid it and throw on some electrical tape. But once I took a closer look I noticed the ground which should be on one of the studs coming from the bracket was broken off, and just hanging there.
So I was missing a ground.. that couldn't be good.. even though it ran??
The wire on the left should have a big eye hole on it that slips over the stud and gets sandwiched by another nut.


After seeing that, I decided to swap the harness to the new junkyard one. I had to pull off the belts and a few pullies to get to the sensors, and after a lot of little cuts on my forearms I got the new one in.

After that though, fired right up!


and finally, picture of my daughter looking through the t-top.. because it makes me smile

[This message has been edited by ignorant prodigy (edited 04-19-2020).]

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-25-2020 04:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So i swapped in the new Master Cylinder. Bench bled it, and then gravity bled it until clear fluid was coming out the bleeder.
pedal feels firm

Having issues with it though.
with the clutch in, I can hit every gear with the shifter. Goes in an out nice.
In first, operates just like how I'd expect. Car moved forward no problem.
However If I put it in reverse, when I lift up the clutch pedal it grinds and pushes it right out of gear.

I tried starting it in 2nd and same thing happens.

However, I tried starting it in 3rd gear.. and it moved forward. I only tried that twice just as a test, but actually works in 1st and 3rd.

Anyone have any guesses? Are my synchros toast? I would have though 1st and 2nd were on the same one.
Got me thinking maybe my shift lever needs some adjustment?

[This message has been edited by ignorant prodigy (edited 04-25-2020).]

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ericjon262
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Report this Post04-25-2020 04:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
to me that doesnt' sound like a clutch issue, it sounds like the linkage needs adjustment, like maybe the reverse throw of the shifter isn't far enough.

------------------
"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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Report this Post04-25-2020 05:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sounds like you have too much cable travel to 1, 3, 5 and not enough to 2, 4, R. Try adjusting the Shift cable to better center the range of motion to the needed movement to engage all the gears.
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-25-2020 06:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You guys are awesome

I put it in reverse and it looked fine, but when i popped off the cable the lever had maybe another half inch of travel.
So I loosened the nut on the cable and threaded it in so that the end lined up with the little ball on the lever.

It shifts in all the gears now!!!

such an amazing feeling to be able to drive this car. I bought this car 7 years ago!
I work slow but damn it feels good to take it for a ride around the block

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Report this Post04-25-2020 06:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So here's the new vs old MC. The old wasn't in the best shape to begin with so even though this wasnt my issue I'm happy with the replacement.
I had a bit of trouble getting the new brass bushing on with the eyerod. I removed the clutch safety switch to get a pair of pliers in there and managed to eventually get it, difficult to reach.
I wound up just fixing the little arm of the switch to 'bypass' the clutch..and just left it dangling there for now.





I have lowering springs for the front, and I should be able to adjust the coil overs in the rear to give it a better stance. Going to need to tires, these are old.
I actually don't mind how the front tires stick out, gives it an aggressive stance IMO


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Report this Post05-20-2020 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
been a couple weeks since I updated this thread.

I noticed at one point when I was under it the car the rear plug on the floor pan looked very rusty. I needed to clean the carpets because they were covered in mice crap.
So I pulled them out.




.
.
My Tiburon seats that I got a few years ago (page 1) had been sitting outdoors for over a year. They got pretty moldy and nasty. So I washed them up using vinegar, power washer and carpet cleaner.
This image shows them wet so they dont look this bad lol

.
.
Met a nice guy in NH who has a ton of fieros. He sold me a section of floor pan to repair my car.

.
Both headlights pins were dust. I went to replace them but basically every screw on the motors caps and assembly snapped off. So I said **** it and bought new motors.
The old headlamps worked, but were tired and dingy...

So I ordered some expensive replacements. The headlight buckets from rock auto don't fit the old or new headlamps. So I had to keep the originals which sucked. But I got all new hardware from the fierostore and cleaned up all the plastic trim. The JW Speakers seem like very high quality.



.
.
I ordered a small shutoff valve for the IC heat exchanger to help me bleed the system. I hooked it up to the overflow tank and mounted that right to the sail panel. That way I can leave the valve open and bleed it, but when i open the trunk shut the valve so the coolant doesnt just flow into the overflow.
Not sure how effective it'll be. I figure I'll leave the hose loose and test it out before I go drilling and mounting it.

.
.
Also my tach and speedo don't seem to have the correct values. My scanner gauge looks more accurate.

.
.
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post05-30-2020 12:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've scheduled time with a shop to weld in the replacement floor pan. Shocker the craigslist mobile welder I had stood me up.
So i figure I should go with a professional. Once I get a legit garage built I swear I'll buy my own welding equipment and learn.

I also have them repairing one of the lateral link 'pockets' on the cradle. it was rotted in some areas and I wasnt comfortable with it.
Also the stock lateral links were very rusty.. and I have a feeling adjusting them was going to be a nightmare.
This is an old photo when I was installing them


So I copied fiero guru's rear lateral link setup. kudos to him for doing all the hardwork for us lazy guys.
being the amateur I am the first attempt at cutting the tubing for the bolt sleeves I managed to get it stuck to my long bolt. To be fair this is the original long bolt which was bent.


Also, I couldn't get the tubes into the rod ends with my hands, and I only bought 1 rod so I didnt want to damage them, so I used my small vice.



The threads on the rod end seem very soft, and had a couple imperfections right out of the box. When I threaded the nuts and rods on i did my best to not force anything, and clean them the best I could.. but I wasn't really crazy about the quality of the threads.

finished product


and of course, this is fieroguru's thread where I stole his setup:
http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/120882.html
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