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Fiero No.2 - 88formula 3800/F23 swap by ignorant prodigy
Started on: 04-27-2014 02:19 PM
Replies: 100 (3990 views)
Last post by: ignorant prodigy on 03-28-2020 02:03 PM
ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post06-12-2018 09:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
update!

Suspension all hooked up. Need to rent a torque wrench that goes to 220lb for the new spindle nuts.. mine only goes to 130 or so

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I initially installed my sway bar backwards.. opps.. just for reference the stock sway bar has a "pointy" end and a round end.. the pointy end is the driver's side.

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Once that was all set I installed the new calipers, pads, rotors and hoses. Also hooked up the e-brake.. but snapped the little adjuster thing.. i'll need a new one now.. ugh

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After all that.. i was excited to get wheels on it and see what it looks like in daylight.. it's been in my garage for 5 years!
Was a good feeling.. it's actually starting to look like a car again



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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post06-13-2018 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I removed the torsion springs to clear room.
I'm making this post because it's intimidating to do for the first time.. so if you're reading this and are thinking about doing it, hopefully this will be helpful.
I followed the process from the service manual.. others use straps or cut them off.. but i dont have small enough straps and didnt want to cut them.

You need both of your hands for this.. so if you only have 1 arm get some help.

Step 1 is place a "block" between the bar and the hood bracket. Get a block that fits the gap entirely.. you dont want any play..I actually tapped mine in with a mallet.. it was good and tight
Also grab a board to protect the glass in case something goes haywire. It recommends plywood.. but i just used what i had lying around
Then remove the screw(1) circled in the pic.. my drivers side was just a torx bit.. but the passengers side was a security torx bit.. dunno why.
This was the scariest part.. the screw looks like it's going to come flying out.. I just went super slow and wore safety glasses.. yea i was being a pussy but i like having eyes

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Next step is to place a hollow bar that's 1" or so in diameter on top of the torsion bar. I used the top half of my hydraulic jack handle.. it worked perfect

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After that, you can un-bolt the number 2 bolt in the picture w/o pulling down the bar. The last bolt(3) you need to pull down the bar while loosening it. This is where you need 2 arms.
Holding the bar down the whole time you just back the bolt out and slide the bracket away. I used a 13mm ratcheting wrench.. ezpz

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Then slowly rest the bar against the wood board that is protecting the glass. I went back and grabbed a smaller piece of wood at this point.. because the other huge one was overkill.

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Lastly go to the opposite side of the bar.. you can now easily pull the bar out of the way with your hand and pull out the pin.

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Now just rinse and repeat for the other side.
Once you do it.. you'll feel kind of silly for being scared.. there's so many horror stories i think I psyched myself out.

now that the bars are out of the way.. i can test fit the trunk.. hopefully with the IC i don't run into clearance issues.

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post06-30-2018 02:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
don't call it a come back...

I did some cutting to clear the SC snout

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then it was onto the IC heat exchanger setup.
I got most of these hoses from buying a friend partially done swap. hoses.. hoses everywhere

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picture speak for themselves really







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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post07-10-2018 08:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
is this thing on?

Got the rear bumper back on.


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time to move that battery off the roof of the car. Problem is the battery I have (which I bought brand new last year) is slightly too large for the box I bought.. :sigh:..


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On to the front brakes!
The rotors were seized on there pretty good. It took a whole lot of banging on both sides to break them free.
I still have a bunch of suspension parts to install, so I didn't go crazy cleaning at this stage.. just want to get it stopping


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I managed to get the passenger side brake hose free with no issues at all. but the drivers side stripped on both sides. I only have a single set of lock pliers so I used a pipe wrench on the other side. eventually I'll have to replace the hard-line.. but for now I'm going to see if it holds.


Have some springs and struts for the front, I'll probably have a shop install those for me though.

video because i love hearing it run..
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CJB118
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Report this Post07-16-2018 01:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for CJB118Send a Private Message to CJB118Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When you get this mean machine on the road, meet me around Littleton, I will bring our Formula, and buy you lunch.

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1988 Pontiac Fiero Formula, Yellow, original. (CJB #118)
1977 Pontiac Le Mans Can-Am W72, original, unrestored.
1977 Pontiac Grand LeMans
2003 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP L67/MN7 (Parts Car)
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP L67/MN7 (DD)

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post07-16-2018 07:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by CJB118:

When you get this mean machine on the road, meet me around Littleton, I will bring our Formula, and buy you lunch.


sounds like a plan
although.. at the rate i work it may be a few years lol


Haven't had much time to work on the car the last few days.
Here's an image of what the spoiler looks like with the trunk up.

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Also got my Sage IMSA side scoop in the mail. So I figured it was time to build my CAI
side by side

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Here's the TB side. The additional grommet I had on the shelf. I just used two PVC pipe elbows to pass through the hole to the fender

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Then I just slapped a big ass cone to it using a rubber adapter

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If you look closely, you can see the filter through the grill

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Report this Post07-26-2018 09:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Up next is wrapping up the IC install.
I had to wire in the pump. i got all of the components used, and wiring is by far the area in which i have the least knowledge and experience with.

After lots of googling, and a facebook post, I managed to figure it out.
First, the pump. I just used a couple big zip ties, the same ones I used for the spoiler.
I mounted it below the intake.. the lowest point of the system to aid in priming.

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I ran the ground to a random un-used hole in the engine bay wall above the intake, and also grounded the relay ground to the same spot. I think this was originally to mount the vapor canister?

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Then I ran the power wire from the pump and the ground wire through a pre-existing hole in the trunk wall and attached them to the relay.

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For those wondering, this is how I ran the relay
Pin 30 = Pump power wire
Pin 85 = ground
Pin 86 = ignition power (I used E3 on the C500)
Pin 87 = power junction in batter tray area (not pictured is a fuse I ran in the trunk wall)

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Then I ran the wires right through the trunk wall and into the engine bay through an existing hole on the other side.
Then I just tied into the C500 ignition wire, and put an eye-hole on the other side for the power junction.


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I still need to clean up some of these red wires


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It works!
Then it was onto filling it. I used one of these guys, worked out ok.. still leaked out on the sides though


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Getting it to bleed will take some time. I still have some big air bubbles to work out, but no leaks!

[This message has been edited by ignorant prodigy (edited 07-26-2018).]

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fierogt455
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Report this Post12-07-2018 07:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierogt455Click Here to Email fierogt455Send a Private Message to fierogt455Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Any updates?
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post01-25-2019 02:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierogt455:

Any updates?


nope.

I moved Dec 21st. Just before that I had it towed to the exhaust shop to have the build the exhaust. It's been sitting there since. I didn't give him a time table.. so it's basically free storage at this point.
I emailed the guy last week to make sure it was indoors.

so at this point.. all my tools and spare parts are packed in totes in my new garage. I'm not in any real rush to get the car back.. I wouldn't be working on it till it gets warmer anyways
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-17-2019 10:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
No fiero updates.

It's still sitting at the exhaust shop. I've asked him a couple times at this point if he has a plan of attack.. but he doesnt
I'm not putting too much pressure on him. I only have a 1 car garage at the new house and right now it's holding another toy.

Over the last few years i've come close to just selling the fiero and all the parts.. its hard keeping motivation.
I still want to finish it at this point and actually race it.. but having it for 6 years and never driving it can be very discouraging.

So after years of complaining to the wife she finally just said to go ahead and buy a fast car.

so I did


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va441975
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Report this Post04-17-2019 11:28 PM Click Here to See the Profile for va441975Send a Private Message to va441975Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That is awesome. How you like it?
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post04-18-2019 08:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I love it!
It's so much fun
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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post03-24-2020 07:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Back in Nov 2018 I dropped it off at the Exhaust shop. I asked him if he'd be interested in doing a few other small things to it in addition to the exhaust. He pulled in into his shop to protect it from weather.. and there it sat..

That's where it sat.. collecting dust for a year and a half.

Then on March 9th I stopped by his shop to get an oil change... in my Viper. He had never met me face to face.. so I thought it'd be a good introduction.


Then 2 weeks later, he had my exhaust done! lol. He's a good guy.





Can't wait to get back into it. Downside is I don't have space for it. Going to have to leave it outdoors for now, until I figure something out.
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Report this Post03-24-2020 02:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wonder how this will sound?

Have my battery on a trickle charger, i'm going to drain the oil and put in new stuff. Also the gas is 3 years old at this point.. i may just try to start it with the old gas? still deciding

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Report this Post03-27-2020 07:12 AM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
hit a set back yesterday.
did an oil change and went to start it. first time since late 2018 that I've tried turning it on.

I turned the key (with jumper cables on) and i heard the IC pump come on, but not the fuel pump. Tried cranking and nothing happened.
So I checked the fuses for the fuel pump, then the relay. Then I crawled under and checked the harness from the pump... all looked good.

then I saw it...



Mice must have chewed it up. So disappointed.
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Report this Post03-27-2020 11:42 AM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That sucks. But at least the damage appears to be all in one spot so it shouldn't be too hard to fix. I usually have a chunk of mouse poison in my front trunk to prevent damage.

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86 GT built 2.2 ecotec turbo
rear SLA suspension
QA1 coilovers on tube arms

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Report this Post03-27-2020 12:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
glad to see you're still at it, it's a bummer that the wiring got trashed. especially considering the location is hard to do a good permanent fix, a high stress point with lots of motion is the last place I want a joint.
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Report this Post03-27-2020 01:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by wftb:

That sucks. But at least the damage appears to be all in one spot so it shouldn't be too hard to fix. I usually have a chunk of mouse poison in my front trunk to prevent damage.




yea. i had traps in it when it was in my garage, but when it was at the exhaust shop it didnt have anything


 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

glad to see you're still at it, it's a bummer that the wiring got trashed. especially considering the location is hard to do a good permanent fix, a high stress point with lots of motion is the last place I want a joint.


Agreed. good as time as any to learn how to solder i guess

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Report this Post03-27-2020 03:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ericjon262Send a Private Message to ericjon262Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ignorant prodigy:


Agreed. good as time as any to learn how to solder i guess

it's worth mentioning that the heat can cause stresses in the wire which can degrade the strength, a well done crimp might actually be a better fix, because it allows for more flex, but not with autozone butt connectors.

something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/CONN...SPLICE/dp/B00MMYFX5O

with crimpers like these:

https://www.amazon.com/SG-T...ustrial%2C261&sr=1-3

and high quality shrink tube.

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"I am not what you so glibly call to be a civilized man. I have broken with society for reasons which I alone am able to appreciate. I am therefore not subject to it's stupid laws, and I ask you to never allude to them in my presence again."

cognita semper

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/119122.html

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post03-27-2020 03:55 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by ericjon262:

it's worth mentioning that the heat can cause stresses in the wire which can degrade the strength, a well done crimp might actually be a better fix, because it allows for more flex, but not with autozone butt connectors.

something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/CONN...SPLICE/dp/B00MMYFX5O

with crimpers like these:

[URL=https://www.amazon.com/SG-Tool-Aid-SGT18915-Terminal/dp/B079P3L8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=3MM3PNLPPA68H&keywords=metri+pack+crimper&qid=1585340738&s=industrial&sprefix=metri+pack+%2Cindustrial%2C261&sr=1-3]https://www.amazon.com/SG-T...ustrial%2C261&sr=1-3[/ URL]

and high quality shrink tube.



hmmm... bummer i just went and bought all the stuff to solder them. we'll see how it goes.. if they break then I'll go the way you suggest

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ignorant prodigy
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Report this Post03-28-2020 02:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ignorant prodigyClick Here to Email ignorant prodigySend a Private Message to ignorant prodigyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
not the best job, but it did the trick.




Sounds like a bit of a rattle has started. hard to tell where it's coming from. I took off the sc belt to eliminate the coupler...
best i can tell is it sounds like it's coming from the back valve cover areas.. no beuno
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