I've scoured the forums and google, and can't find an answer to this question.
I have a 1986 Fiero SE (2M4). I went to have the oil changed and the oil change place went through 6 filters trying to get one screwed on. They said the threads were totally stripped/crossthreaded, and they had to put the old filter back on (which is now leaking). I've searched high and low for information about what the oil filter attaches to...
What is this part called? Is it part of the engine block? What would you recommend I do to fix it?
Most GM cars use the threaded nipple that the filter screws onto. Any car that uses that filter will have the nipple. It can be unscrewed from the block. It's unlikely that the block is stripped.
Here's a listing of some of the cars that have the nipple. Wrap the thread well with a shop towel and use a pair of channel locks to unscrew it from the block.
Oil Change Place, threads were cross threaded/stripped. Was that before or after they started? Had an apple out of that bag already, but it was a dealer. It was either me or them, and I know it wasn't me.
Do not drive until oil leak is fix. Even small leaks are big headache and often fire hazard.
If old one threads then likely not your engine but their wrong filter, cheap filter w/ bad threads, etc.
Go buy whatever brand to stop the leaking. Leaking could bad gasket after removing.
Is the first time you change oil? Likely no. Is there a label on old filter? If does, any numbers?
Tread part is easy to fix but part #? 4 cylinder engine, GM says oil filter connector 10004841. get at many GM parts outlets/dealers etc. example parts.nalleygmc.com item 073 and says $31 plus S&H
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Is the threaded shaft something that can be unscrewed from the block and replaced?
It looks like it... there's a brass threaded piece sticking out. I'll upload a picture momentarily...
While I was under there I also found the cause of my serpentine belt being thrown... it's even in the same picture. I'm sure glad the shop decided to not mention that... looks like a pretty obvious issue to me, LOL.
That doesn't really look stripped to me. I'd agree that they may have been using a cheap filter. Now that you're under it that far, go get yourself a PPurolator or Wix filter and install it yourself. Test fit it, first and if it will screw on, remove it, fill it about 3/4 with oil and then install it and tighten.
What is that alternator bolt doing loose? That should be taken care of while you're under there.
Do not drive until oil leak is fix. Even small leaks are big headache and often fire hazard.
If old one threads then likely not your engine but their wrong filter, cheap filter w/ bad threads, etc.
Go buy whatever brand to stop the leaking. Leaking could bad gasket after removing.
Is the first time you change oil? Likely no. Is there a label on old filter? If does, any numbers?
Tread part is easy to fix but part #? 4 cylinder engine, GM says oil filter connector 10004841. get at many GM parts outlets/dealers etc. example parts.nalleygmc.com item 073 and says $31 plus S&H
>>Is the first time you change oil? Likely no. No, I've had the oil changed before (plenty of times). But I typically take it to a 10min oil change place. Over the last 4 oil changes that's been a different place, so it's kinda hard to narrow down who's to blame. >>Is there a label on old filter? If does, any numbers? Yes, it's a Performax PO-29 then there's another line PZ15 Q53980 >>Tread part is easy to fix but part #? This part I'm a bit confused on... Perhaps I'm still a little new to this, but I can't make much sense of what I'd be ordering based on that diagram. I take it this part isn't a commonly stocked one at NAPA or Advanced Auto?
Thank you so much for all of your help! (And quick responses) :-)
Look at your pictures. You would need that threaded nipple in the center. It's threaded on both ends and held in place by that big nut. I'm not sure, but the nipple may have the same threads on both ends. If it does, you may be able to carefully thread the end you're showing back into the block and have a good end sticking out.
That doesn't really look stripped to me. I'd agree that they may have been using a cheap filter. Now that you're under it that far, go get yourself a PPurolator or Wix filter and install it yourself. Test fit it, first and if it will screw on, remove it, fill it about 3/4 with oil and then install it and tighten.
What is that alternator bolt doing loose? That should be taken care of while you're under there.
I'll try a WIX filter and see if I get any different results, I'll post back today or tomorrow.
Originally posted by OziDarklighter: >>Is there a label on old filter? If does, any numbers? Yes, it's a Performax PO-29 then there's another line PZ15 Q53980 >>Tread part is easy to fix but part #? This part I'm a bit confused on... Perhaps I'm still a little new to this, but I can't make much sense of what I'd be ordering based on that diagram. I take it this part isn't a commonly stocked one at NAPA or Advanced Auto?
filter is Fram filter # format. Q53980 is 3980, the long style filter and is right one for the engine. (Long filter add 1-2 cups of oil needed.)
Picture show 2 things... 1. the angle shown, fittings is not striped. 2. alternator bolt need reinstalled NOW and use the missing nut. W/o correct OE nut, Best is use Nyloc nut and flat washer.
No, fitting not even available at most auto parts stores. Is very hard to strip that. Fitting is harder steel than filter's metal. Means if you try to "cross thread" the filter, filter is going to lose that and strip out and not the engine fitting.
Most oil shops use Very cheap filters. Save money and do that w/ good filters.
I was at the auto parts store when I saw your reply, and had them give me that exact FRAM filter read verbatim from your post. Very cool! I got it home, and it's a little tough to get started but worked just fine. So I filled it up, turned it on, and no more leak! I think I'll start doing my own oil changes... I can't believe they were that careless with the whole thing. The one you suggested was a bit bigger (not sure why).
As for the alternator bolt, the bolt I took out was missing the nut... and isn't even the right bolt because it loosely slides through. I spent about 45 minutes at the store having them try to look up the correct part number to no avail. Do I just get a nut and bolt and tighten it as best I can? I'm thinking it's important that the diameter of the bolt is the same as the OEM specs to make sure there's no play in the belt.
Looks like the right bolt just needs self locking nut and washer needs to not fit tight gust snug
I'm a bit frustrated it seems so difficult to find out what stinkin bolt to use. I'm scouring the internet (i'm typically pretty good at that) and can't seem to find anything. I'm seriously considering just getting a nut for this, and putting it back on... I just wanted to make sure I'm doing the right thing.
Do they carry nylock nuts at typical auto parts stores? Or should I hit up Home Depot?
Originally posted by OziDarklighter: I'm a bit frustrated it seems so difficult to find out what stinkin bolt to use. I'm scouring the internet (i'm typically pretty good at that) and can't seem to find anything. I'm seriously considering just getting a nut for this, and putting it back on... I just wanted to make sure I'm doing the right thing.
Do they carry nylock nuts at typical auto parts stores? Or should I hit up Home Depot?
If OE, it looks OE and does have some play (IOW OE bolt slips thru bracket and alt), then Metric thread I think. You can try auto parts. Take bolt to store.
The GM part number for the bolt is 11508142. It's a BOLT, FLGD HEX HD (M 10 X 1 5 X 105) (9 B PZOR) The nut is GM part number 1150801 NUT, HEX FLG (M10 X 1 5)
[This message has been edited by fierofool (edited 04-21-2014).]
The shop that put on 6 filters didn't know what they were doing, or they were installing the wrong filter. Did they verify the engine information?
There is nothing wrong with those threads.
I have had no issues with Fram, Puroilator, and the older AC filters. The new AC filters are made differently and seem to have less thread area, but I haven't had any issues, personally.
The oil filter leak was fixed by replacing it with a fram filter. The belt alignment problem was fixed by pushing the alternator bolt back in, and adding a nylock nut from ACE Hardware.
I drove it about 20miles today and it's riding great now.
That doesn't really look stripped to me. I'd agree that they may have been using a cheap filter. Now that you're under it that far, go get yourself a PPurolator or Wix filter and install it yourself. Test fit it, first and if it will screw on, remove it, fill it about 3/4 with oil and then install it and tighten.
What is that alternator bolt doing loose? That should be taken care of while you're under there.
The first thing I thought when I saw the threads is they are not stripped. I would not take my car back to those clowns.
[This message has been edited by solotwo (edited 04-22-2014).]
I now use Wix or Napa Gold. A friend who used to race in the Trans Am Series back in the 70-80's told me to use them . they are the best. may cost more but isnt your engine worth it?
