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Did tune up now wont start by gr85z
Started on: 04-20-2014 07:19 PM
Replies: 15 (413 views)
Last post by: phonedawgz on 04-23-2014 09:30 PM
gr85z
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Report this Post04-20-2014 07:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So I did the basic tune up the other day
86 GT 2.8 Auto
I changed
Oil & Filter, Plugs (recommended nothing fancy like E3s), Wires, Cap, Rotor, PVC valve.
So after all that the plugs that were next to the firewall in front looked real bad but got them out. The plugs close to the trunk took them out by hand no tools needed. ( they were also a different brand).
Car initially didn't do anything just cranked over no fire. Fiddled with Cap and wires still same, finally fired, so took for quick spin, it hesitated on start up but then ran fine. Ran rough at stop lights. Got home let it sit for a bit. Went to pull in garage then it wouldn't stay running when put in gear. finally got it in garage.
Tonight go out to fire it up and nothing just cranks with no firing. Checked the plugs and wires and cap again all looked good. Put all back together nothing. HELP I am lost.
Could it be the Coil? Some Sensor?
I am new to Fieros but can turn a wrench and troubleshoot things just at a loss as to what it could be should I put one item each back in minus the plugs to see if it fixes it?

Thanks in adavance
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Midn1ght Driv3r
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Report this Post04-20-2014 07:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Midn1ght Driv3rClick Here to Email Midn1ght Driv3rSend a Private Message to Midn1ght Driv3rEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did you replace the plug wires one at a time or all at once? If all at once you might have mixed up the firing order. Double check that each wire is going to the corresponding plug.
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gr85z
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Report this Post04-20-2014 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Midn1ght Driv3r:

Did you replace the plug wires one at a time or all at once? If all at once you might have mixed up the firing order. Double check that each wire is going to the corresponding plug.


I used masking tape labeled each wire to where it was at and then took sharpie and numbered the position on the cap as to what was where. So firing order is correct or I would assume I wouldn't have been able to drive yesterday for short spin.
Just baffling.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post04-20-2014 07:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Q1 - Key on but don't crank it. Does the fuel pump come on for two seconds and then turn off? It should.

Q2 - Key on engine not running. Does the check engine light come on? It should.

If you fail at both Q1 and Q2 check the ECM reset connector by the battery to make sure it is still plugged together.

Q3 - During cranking does the tach rise to about 200 RPM and then fall back to zero after cranking? It should.
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gr85z
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Report this Post04-20-2014 07:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Q1 - Key on but don't crank it. Does the fuel pump come on for two seconds and then turn off? It should.

Q2 - Key on engine not running. Does the check engine light come on? It should.

If you fail at both Q1 and Q2 check the ECM reset connector by the battery to make sure it is still plugged together.

Q3 - During cranking does the tach rise to about 200 RPM and then fall back to zero after cranking? It should.


Yes to all questions
Fuel pump comes on and shuts off (use to motorcycle turning key and letting system pressurize before starting)
Check engine light comes one.
Tach does bounce with starter turning over pretty sure it was 200ish

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post04-20-2014 08:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Shoot some starting fluid into it and see if it starts and runs shortly on the fluid.
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KaijuSenso
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Report this Post04-20-2014 08:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KaijuSensoSend a Private Message to KaijuSensoEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Did you unplug any sensors while working on the engine? Maybe the MAP sensor got unplugged? Throttle Position Sensor? (Sounds like an unplugged MAF sensor but these cars don't use one so I would look to make sure everything is plugged in)
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tshark
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Report this Post04-20-2014 10:00 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
...

[This message has been edited by tshark (edited 09-08-2018).]

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tshark
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Report this Post04-20-2014 10:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tsharkSend a Private Message to tsharkEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

tshark

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quote
Originally posted by phonedawgz:

Shoot some starting fluid into it and see if it starts and runs shortly on the fluid.


If this works, it's not getting fuel. There's another thread on here about fuel pressure.
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gr85z
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Report this Post04-20-2014 10:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Tomorrow I will shoot starter fluid in and see what it does.
Nothing else got unplugged matter of fact I went through all vacuum lines and plugs and made sure they were all good and secure.
The only plug that really isn't there is the Temp Sending sensor near the ignition coil. But made sure it was all clean will fix it later. (Temp gauge on dash doesn't work needle fell off and laying at bottom of gauge.
I will look at ICM connections and such tomorrow also. Anything particular to look for?
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donnie072003
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Report this Post04-21-2014 10:58 AM Click Here to See the Profile for donnie072003Click Here to visit donnie072003's HomePageClick Here to Email donnie072003Send a Private Message to donnie072003Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When you check the ICM take a good look at the connector. They tend to corrode over time and cause a bad connection.

 
quote
Originally posted by gr85z:

Tomorrow I will shoot starter fluid in and see what it does.
Nothing else got unplugged matter of fact I went through all vacuum lines and plugs and made sure they were all good and secure.
The only plug that really isn't there is the Temp Sending sensor near the ignition coil. But made sure it was all clean will fix it later. (Temp gauge on dash doesn't work needle fell off and laying at bottom of gauge.
I will look at ICM connections and such tomorrow also. Anything particular to look for?


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gr85z
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Report this Post04-23-2014 07:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
OK here is the latest,
Shot starter fluid in nothing
Neighbor came over (pretty good hobby mechanic) he recommended taking ICM out and having tested at parts store, took out and tested it FAILED - bought new on while there.
So now I have New ICM, plugs, wires, cap ,rotor
Still doing same thing motor turns, fuel pump makes noise (and plugs are wet with gas), but not firing off.
Does anything need to be reset with ECM?
I have new coil just haven't installed yet. I do have test light to put between plug and wire and will flash for each "spark" tested on the back 3 plugs since I can see and easy to get to.
So something else I was thinking and neighbor mentioned also is the firing order Correct in the Chiltons for a 2.8?

I getting at a loss of things to try or look at I know it isn't to tough but was running good before I did change out just wasted fresh in there since cap and rotor were at end.

Thanks for help so far.
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NW-Fiero
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Report this Post04-23-2014 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for NW-FieroSend a Private Message to NW-FieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
"So something else I was thinking and neighbor mentioned also is the firing order Correct in the Chiltons for a 2.8? "

1-2-3-4-5-6 Yep that's correct.

Can you do a visual TDC and Timing mark set to # 1 and verify distributor is aligned to #1 spark plug at cap
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post04-23-2014 07:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Cranking the engine with the spark plug wires disconnected can cause a weak ignition coil, or even a new coil to fail under high voltage.

So after replacing the ICM does the engine now fire when you squirt starting fluid into it?

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gr85z
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Report this Post04-23-2014 08:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gr85zClick Here to Email gr85zSend a Private Message to gr85zEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just came up from garage the new coil I ordered showed up so figured what the heck give it a shot.
So new coil in everything crossed and BINGO it fired up and runs like a champ. Crab the kiddo (since momma was out with other kiddo) went for quick drive sounds and runs great.
Thanks everyone for the great feedback on things, now on to the next item.

How hard is it to fix temp gauge? (needle fell inside the gauge)
I am sure there will be more might make a list and post on another topic.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post04-23-2014 09:30 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Stick the needle onto the post. Otherwise buy a used gauge from someone on the MALL section of this forum.
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