They add up to 7 degs timing at WOT at the upper end of the RPM band. I have a bunch I have looked over the code and thats all they do. there is no other code change in the chip. I'll sell you one or a copy of one if you want. I have the 85 one and 86-88 ones. Straight no BS that is what they do.
I didn't really expect a miracle. Decades ago my Grand National had a selectable chip box. When I loaded up with 115 octane at the airport and switched to the aggressive chip (it did other things with boost and shift points) the car got under 11 seconds. With the stock chip and ordinary premium fuel, 13 seconds. So 20 years ago I learned that a well-designed chip can be beneficial, if combined with octane.
I had hoped that today's Fiero chips went beyond that, but There's STILL No Such Thing as a Free Lunch.
THANKS!! And apparently it's nitrous for the occasional kick in the back...
You can do some free mods with a die grinder to get 10-15 more hp...
Remove your exhaust manifolds and cross-over pipe and on the manifolds, when you look in you'll see what to remove with the die-grinder.
With the cross-over, you'll have to cut it open where the 2 pipes become one and open up the D-crimped area.
On the intake side, the larger throttle bodies (56/57mm) have shown about a 1-3 hp gain on a 2.8 on a dyno. You can also grind away a lot of that intake opening base support. A lot of people cut out the water-separator on the intake tube that sits below that.
RodneyDickman.com also sells an underdrive crank-pulley that is good for 8 ft*lbs and 6rwhp on a dyno. I recommend the 88 alternator conversion at that same time though...as he does as well.
All in all, a well running 2.8 should dyno at 115 rwhp in 100% stock form and with these mods, you should be able to get it north of 130 rwhp.
You should definitely do a before and after dyno. You shouldn't need any ECM tuning to take advantage of this but the AFTER-dyno will tell you for sure.
Forum member 1fst2m6 dyno'd his 2.8 at 154rwhp but he also may have had a slightly larger exhaust ... but that's essentially your high-limit. You should be somewhere between 130 and 154 rwhp with those mods...which is much better than 115 rwhp...
[This message has been edited by lou_dias (edited 04-14-2014).]
I'd like to know too. I've heard that they do absolutely nothing, but from others I've also heard they add 10 hp.
I agree, I paid abot $80 and it really didn't do much but Idle faster. There wasn't much of any noticible diffrence in the HP. You could allways port your exhaust manifolds,but getting the bolts out with out breaking them is a pain. I wouldn't waste your cash...just my 2 cents.
They are a waste of money if you don't have accompanying mods to make the retune worthwhile. A fully stock engine will just run rich with the Hypertech power chips.
------------------ -Chris '85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD) '88 GT - Series 3 SC3800 w/ 3.5" pulley, 1.8" rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.5" intake, 3.29 gearing. Installed and tuned by Sinister Performance '99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new '03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Prepping to sell) '09 G37x Sedan w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car) '13 G37xS Sedan (new daily driver)
They are a waste of money if you don't have accompanying mods to make the retune worthwhile. A fully stock engine will just run rich with the Hypertech power chips.
How does "it just adds up to 7 degs timing at WOT" make it run rich? There is no fuel change in the chip.
Perhaps increased timing raising the idle calls for more fuel, since the computer wasnt made for the chip, or added timing via a trick, it uses the engines sensors as best it can and determines too much fuel? I dont know either.
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 04-15-2014).]
------------------ -Chris '85 V6 SE 4sp (SOLD) '88 GT - Series 3 SC3800 w/ 3.5" pulley, 1.8" rockers, 3" exhaust, 3.5" intake, 3.29 gearing. Installed and tuned by Sinister Performance '99 Kawasaki Vulcan 500, owned since new '03 Sentra SE-R Spec V (Prepping to sell) '09 G37x Sedan w/ Premium & Nav (wife's car) '13 G37xS Sedan (new daily driver)
the chips are a waste of money unless you plan to drag race the Fiero there is no benefit untill you are running flat out WOT you can swap the computer & get much better MPG & an increase in useable power the porting of the fiero exhaust is mandatory for best performance the stock Fiero exhaust manifold has a serious blockage use only eastwood black or silver paint on Fiero headers & manifolds when you replace your muffler use a Dynomax super turbo, (cut the old one off) this will be the #17730,,use hardware store turnbuckles & L brackets to mount with your springs. this is a close fit ,, the Borla is the best ,but more expensive & the folks at borla have been unresponsive as to which Borla is best,,I found the Dyno max people extremely helpful,just have not gotten around to writting the Borla execs to help Fiero men & women the Dyno max gives the fiero a boost in its mid to upper RPM range this included the duke 4 when the cat is removed the neck down helps the muffler perform ..always install your muffler at theoriginal location for best performance ,,never mount a muffler where the cat was this hurts performance gless packs hurt performance the dyno max is quiet untill you press to the metal then it has a neato jet sound
What ever your decision is, you allso need to remove the Hypertech chip for smog and reinstall the OEM chip. You can switch it back, after the smog test. Even then, the car could still fail smog,becuase it was running rich for a long period of time.
[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 04-16-2014).]
I ported my exhaust, added Thrush Muffler and roller rockers. It made such a difference. It was a whole new car. My first thought was, "This is what the car should have been like from the start."
