I just got word that my '88 GT has failed 'state inspection' due to the LH rear strut being "dead". When I asked them, over the phone, exactly what they meant by "dead", it sounded like they almost mean it is seized up, rather than too easy travel as what I would expect them to say about a worn out strut or dampener. The inspector told me it was hard to explain over the phone, but he will show me what he means later this afternoon when I can pick the car up. I will have 15 days to make the repair and then get it re-inspected for an additional $1.
Can anyone recommend a good, but affordable strut to fit the '88 model year? RockAuto does not have much of a selection, and their '88 only struts (ACDelco & Sachs) are in the $71.79 -$73.79 each price range.
Is a coil-over conversion for the '88 model year a good and affordable option?
Thank you for the help.
[This message has been edited by hdryder (edited 04-11-2014).]
Gabriel, Munroe, KYB, and Koni all make replacement struts for the rear of a Fiero. They may only be listed as '84 - '87 but they will fit the '88 and those are what everyone uses even when they make coil overs. There are no companies that make the '88 specific rear strut anymore.
There is one area on your '88 knuckles that might interfere with the earlier struts and prevent you from setting the right camber though. Most people with an '88 that have replaced their shocks have had to grind a small point on the backside of their knuckles. Here's the area I'm talking about:
It's best just to grind it down an 1/8" or so while you have it apart because if they have to do it when you go to get the car re-aligned, they'll charge you a chunk of change to disassemble and grind them.
Good and affordable don't always go together. The Fiero Store sells KYB rear struts for the 88 GT. Price is $168 for the pair. A little more money, but a whole lot better strut.
I have found some KYB Excel-G Gas Struts (p/n: 234005) for as low as $46.78/ea. plus shipping, and am thinking of going with those.
But I have noticed the rear of the car seems to sit a little lower than the front, which I don't really care for. As long as I have to disassemble the strut/spring assembly when replacing the struts, I was thinking it may be a good time to also replace the springs. But nobody so far as a listing for rear '88 stock OEM springs.
Therefore, I am still thinking the coil-overs may be a good solution for the ride height adjustment.
But I have noticed the rear of the car seems to sit a little lower than the front, which I don't really care for. As long as I have to disassemble the strut/spring assembly when replacing the struts, I was thinking it may be a good time to also replace the springs. But nobody so far as a listing for rear '88 stock OEM springs.
IMO, you're going about it backwards. You don't want to raise the rear... you want to lower the front!
Finally someone has answered a question I had posted several days ago regarding the differences between the rear heights of my sons 87GT vs. my 88GT. The 88 is basically flat to the ground with maybe slightly a bit lower in the rear vs. the front. The 87 has a definite rake to it. I was trying to find out what is normal for the two. I much prefer the lower and flatter stance of the 88 and it handles like a dream! The 3800SC I installed last year also makes it a blast to drive..
IMO, you're going about it backwards. You don't want to raise the rear... you want to lower the front!
That sounds like a good idea to me. What is the best way to lower the '88 front, without going to radical? Level out the car, or even slightly lower in the front.
I have been driving an '87 GT 5-speed for several years, and just recently got the '88 GT running, and was not use to the lower rear end on the '88.
There is one area on your '88 knuckles that might interfere with the earlier struts and prevent you from setting the right camber though. Most people with an '88 that have replaced their shocks have had to grind a small point on the backside of their knuckles. Here's the area I'm talking about:
It's best just to grind it down an 1/8" or so while you have it apart because if they have to do it when you go to get the car re-aligned, they'll charge you a chunk of change to disassemble and grind them.
Bloozberry, thank you for this information. I hope the KYB struts that I ordered arrive before the weekend, so I can install them over the weekend.
Is the surface area to grind down parallel to the axle, on the flat machined part of the knuckle?
