I getting a definite "clunk" when shifting into drive. Hardly any when shifting into reverse. Fluid level is fine and looks and smells ok. I can see the engine jerk a bit when watching during the shift. I am considering replacing the engine/tranny mounts and the dog-bone. Not planning on doing the cradle mounts at this time. Looks like a bigger project than I am up for as a novice Fiero guy.
I bought the car a couple of weeks ago. The seller told me the engine was replaced with a 3.4L out of a Camaro. (sounds great by the way!) So I am wondering if the mounts will be the same as the 2.8L OEM mounts? Will the 2.8L mounts be a direct replacement?
------------------ My rides... 1988 GT with a 3.4L V6 automatic 2006 Harley Sportster 'cause I love the twisties on two wheels or four.
I don't know if it's the same problem but in my '85 duke I also have a "clunk" or even a "slam" when shifting into D or R. Changes gears very fine though. Changed all the mounts to new ones and the dogbone bushings to poly. No change. However when cold it doesn't slam at all - it goes in very fluid. With that being said the engine still looks like it moves but barely an inch - maybe the cradle bushings are shot?
Sounds like the transmission mounts and dog bone. I had the same problem about three months ago and I just replaced the dog bone with a polyurethane dog bone from the Fiero Store as a temporary fix. It gets rid of the clunking and holds everything in place.
[This message has been edited by gwg1995 (edited 04-09-2014).]
Went into reverse perfectly when pulling out of the garage this morning (cold engine). Then got the usual moderate clunk shifting into drive. Sometimes it is much more pronounced.
Does a different clunk between drive and reverse reveal anything?
I think the idle speeds listed above were OK, right?
Bumping this post to try to get answers to a couple of related questions...
Does the fact that the "clunk" from Park to Drive is much more pronounced than from Park to Reverse mean anything in terms of understanding / diagnosing the problem?
What is the point of the hard poly red bushings in the dogbone verses the standard rubber bushings? One member reported that they quieted the clunk while another reported the clunking started when they were installed.
Bumping this post to try to get answers to a couple of related questions...
Does the fact that the "clunk" from Park to Drive is much more pronounced than from Park to Reverse mean anything in terms of understanding / diagnosing the problem?
What is the point of the hard poly red bushings in the dogbone verses the standard rubber bushings? One member reported that they quieted the clunk while another reported the clunking started when they were installed.
Probably because when just the dogbone bushings were changed all the other mounts weren't.
Bumping this post to try to get answers to a couple of related questions...
Does the fact that the "clunk" from Park to Drive is much more pronounced than from Park to Reverse mean anything in terms of understanding / diagnosing the problem?
What is the point of the hard poly red bushings in the dogbone verses the standard rubber bushings? One member reported that they quieted the clunk while another reported the clunking started when they were installed.
if its the CV joint get the car in the air and twist the tire back and forth, you should be able to fell it, if it is the CV joint. the poly joint you did, stiffened up the engine and it could be another mount but I really don't think so. it could also be a wheel bearing is lose, but I have never heard of them making a clunking noise.
Steve
[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 04-13-2014).]
Have someone else be in the car with their foot on the brake and shifting back and forth from drive to reverse, you watch what the engine/trans DO. the dogbone has an "Adjustment SLOT", so you can fine tune it. My money is on a Trans Mount.
Have someone else be in the car with their foot on the brake and shifting back and forth from drive to reverse, you watch what the engine/trans DO. the dogbone has an "Adjustment SLOT", so you can fine tune it. My money is on a Trans Mount.
the bracket where the dog bone bolt "goes through",( 1 of the brackets has an "enlongated hole, not round) you move the bolt from one end to the other (when the engine is "torqueing" (In drive, foot on brake, nudge gas a little), the engine will "twist" a little, tighten bolt at that time.
Nope, not the dogbone. The drive line absorber connects the engine to the frame to dampen movement of the engine. If I remember correctly, it's under the car below the rear of the passenger compartment. Maybe someone has a pic or diagram they can post. Here's a little discussion i found in the archives.
Nope, not the dogbone. The drive line absorber connects the engine to the frame to dampen movement of the engine. If I remember correctly, it's under the car below the rear of the passenger compartment. Maybe someone has a pic or diagram they can post. Here's a little discussion i found in the archives.
