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How to remove throttle cable ('88 2.8L) by notaguru
Started on: 04-07-2014 08:54 PM
Replies: 4 (368 views)
Last post by: notaguru on 04-07-2014 11:40 PM
notaguru
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Report this Post04-07-2014 08:54 PM Click Here to See the Profile for notaguruClick Here to visit notaguru's HomePageClick Here to Email notaguruSend a Private Message to notaguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The accelerator pedal must be depressed more than an inch before anything happens at the pulley on the throttle body. It's drivable but uncomfortable.

It does not feel like a stretched cable, unless the cable is pulling apart. It looks fine at the engine end, and the throttle makes it to the stop when the pedal is fully depressed.

I have not found a method for removing the cable so it can be inspected. Even the Service Manual ignores this mechanism, as far as I can tell.

IT LOOKS LIKE I get into the tunnel by removing the forward console section (this one is auto trans), then work blind down in the depths of the tunnel to disconnect the cable from the arm coming from the pedal. In the engine compartment, I'd disconnect from the throttle body pulley, then pull. Is that about right?

Thanks!
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Blacktree
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Report this Post04-07-2014 09:50 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That's pretty much how it goes. On the pedal end, the outer casing of the cable clips into a bracket in the tunnel, similar to how it clips into the bracket on the intake plenum. You have to squeeze the tabs, and pull back on the cable. Also, the gas pedal has an arm that reaches into the tunnel. The end of the cable attaches to the end of that arm. I found it easier to detach the pedal assembly and move it around so I could access the end of that arm.
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notaguru
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Report this Post04-07-2014 09:58 PM Click Here to See the Profile for notaguruClick Here to visit notaguru's HomePageClick Here to Email notaguruSend a Private Message to notaguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Blacktree:

That's pretty much how it goes. On the pedal end, the outer casing of the cable clips into a bracket in the tunnel, similar to how it clips into the bracket on the intake plenum. You have to squeeze the tabs, and pull back on the cable. Also, the gas pedal has an arm that reaches into the tunnel. The end of the cable attaches to the end of that arm. I found it easier to detach the pedal assembly and move it around so I could access the end of that arm.


That makes sense - thanks for the clue. I won't easily accept the idea of a stretched cable and suspect either:
1. The clip is detached from the bracket in the tunnel, or
2. The cable is damaged and untwisting, and must be replaced.

THANKS!!

[This message has been edited by notaguru (edited 04-07-2014).]

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Blacktree
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Report this Post04-07-2014 11:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm willing to bet #1 is the problem, because if the cable were frayed internally, it would bind up.
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notaguru
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Report this Post04-07-2014 11:40 PM Click Here to See the Profile for notaguruClick Here to visit notaguru's HomePageClick Here to Email notaguruSend a Private Message to notaguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks - I hope you're right.

Assuming the sole requirement is to re-attach that cable, here are two questions.

1. Can the tunnel end of the cable (at least the part that clips to the bracket) be reached by an ordinary mortal? Or is it yet another design by the Dew Wipe Engineer?

2. Is there a reason to blow a lubricant down that cable housing? If so, what? There's lithium grease, Magnalube, WD40, etc. in my garage... I could easily fabricate a little cuff that would do the job from the engine end.
??
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