You adjust the caster & camber with I think 3 different thickness 'washers' that are on the upper control arm shaft. Different postions of the different washers alter the upper control arm position a tiny bit. Ogre prob has the factory suggestion on his website. You can do it better with the adjustable/slotted ball joints.
I prefer more caster than stock on most of my own cars. Thats what tends to keep the car tracking straight on its own, and returning to center after a turn. They just seem more stable on uneven roads with more and not so 'darty '. To me, if a car pulls in any direction other than perfectly straight on its own, its annoying to drive.
[This message has been edited by rogergarrison (edited 04-06-2014).]
Boostdreamer did his, explains what he did. Don't think he tore the whole front suspension apart. Check search under caster. I changed mine to maximum caster with the spacers. Matched both sides close. Car is very steady at high speeds now. Did everything with new front suspension parts also. Floating is gone.
OK Patrick, didnt know that. I never had to use them myself. On most cars (I know Fiero is different) caster and camber affect each other. I didnt know how they were slotted...just assumed they were slotted to be able to adjust either.
I didnt know how they were slotted...just assumed they were slotted to be able to adjust either.
Of course the '88 front end is different, but from '84-'87 the washers you were referring to adjust the caster... and the slotted ball joints adjust the camber. Before the slotted ball joints became available, the only camber adjustment was flipping the ball joints around, so you were basically limited to only two positions. The '88 style was a big improvement.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 04-06-2014).]
Can this be adjusted without disassembling the whole front suspension?
Also, based on your experience, does the car "feel better" with more or less caster?
You do not need to disassemble the whole front suspension. Just place a floor jack under the lower control arm, raise it up high enough to remove the wheel and remove the upper control arm shaft. The car's weight will keep the spring compressed. I agree that positive caster feels better. The car will track straighter at speed , but may be a bit harder to turn at low speed. Worth the trade off to me. Place all the shims between the rear of the control arm and the stationary upper control arm mount on the frame. That will give you the most caster.
A few years ago I found a thread on here that described upper control arm washer placement to increase caster. Did the job on my '87 and the car seems to track much straighter. Isn't as "darty" as it was with stock caster.
Yep. Pretty simple. Let me know if you have any questions. It might be better to use the other thread and keep all the info together or at least post a link in it to this thread. PM me if I don't come back in a few days.
I did the adjustment, the driver's side had an extra 3mm washer in there for some reason, was set up with 9mm front / 6 mm rear, no wonder the steering felt like crap. Passenger side was 6mm / 6mm.
Now both are 0 / 12mm (both washers in rear) and I took that extra washer out from the front and threw it away. So far it does feel a lot better, more meaty feel while driving.
BUT, it seems like my toe adjustment is way off now, at least it looks like it. I might have to get another alignment done. Anyone experience the same thing?
