Hey guys, I've been gluing my sons console back together. The Gorilla Glue has worked great, and I had a good clean install until I was almost done. Unfortunately, I laid the console in a drip of Gorilla Glue when I was letting the final side dry. The spot is on the side that will be seen. The bottle says solvent free, and to scrap or sand it off. However, I think scraping or sanding would ruin the surface of the console. I tried some alcohol, to no avail. Any suggestions?

Jim

If it was reeeeeeeeally cold, could it chip off?
Thats a tough one.

quote Originally posted by 2.5: If it was reeeeeeeeally cold, could it chip off? Thats a tough one.

Freezer?

Jim

quote Originally posted by jimbolaya: Freezer? Jim

Just a thought, I'd be afraid anything harsh like acetone could remove color or damage the material.
If it had Armorall or Meguiars on it before it got the glue on it, it will for sure help too.

[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 04-04-2014).]

water... soak it for a long time in water, use hot water. I found GG will break down when exposed to water.

quote Originally posted by jaskispyder: water... soak it for a long time in water, use hot water. I found GG will break down when exposed to water.

Problem with this is, it will break down the parts I don't want to break down. I guess I could put a wet rag on the spot.

Jim

quote Originally posted by jimbolaya: Problem with this is, it will break down the parts I don't want to break down. I guess I could put a wet rag on the spot. Jim

Yup, just keep it wet.

Build a little dam with some modeling clay around the spot and fill with water. Tin smiths used sand to build a dam around some solder joints to keep things neat and when finished they just blew the sand away, giving rise to the saying " Not worth a tinkers dam"

I glued a travelers mug and ran it through the dishwasher.... the glue came off (held on the bottom pad).... so, that is where I am coming from....

Oh, and on shoes... didn't last that long either (exposed to water).

[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 04-04-2014).]

quote Originally posted by Phil: Build a little dam with some modeling clay around the spot and fill with water. Tin smiths used sand to build a dam around some solder joints to keep things neat and when finished they just blew the sand away, giving rise to the saying " Not worth a tinkers dam"

Cool

quote Originally posted by Phil: Build a little dam with some modeling clay around the spot and fill with water. Tin smiths used sand to build a dam around some solder joints to keep things neat and when finished they just blew the sand away, giving rise to the saying " Not worth a tinkers dam"

Then it got shorten to "Not worth a damn" over time. Now we all know and GI-Joe said that knowing is half the battle.

[This message has been edited by racingfortheson (edited 04-05-2014).]

I've got a question about gorilla glue. I need to glue my interior together too. However it says on the bottle to not use it with polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE) and isn't that exactly what the vinyl panels are made of?

Thanks.

quote Originally posted by cebix: I've got a question about gorilla glue. I need to glue my interior together too. However it says on the bottle to not use it with polypropylene (PP) and polyethylene (PE) and isn't that exactly what the vinyl panels are made of? Thanks.

No. Vinyl is polyvinyl chloride or PVC....and the plastic underneath is usually ABS.

Thanks. So I guess gorilla glue is the way to go.

Gorilla glue is odd stuff. Water will help it set up, so wet the surfaces you are gluing. It expands a lot, so use less than the space you are filling, and use as many clamps as will fit. They will help keep the form you want when you are finished.

quote Originally posted by Gall757: Gorilla glue is odd stuff. Water will help it set up, so wet the surfaces you are gluing. It expands a lot, so use less than the space you are filling, and use as many clamps as will fit. They will help keep the form you want when you are finished.

That is the toughest thing I have dealt with was keeping form. I could only do one side at a time, because I had to use so many clamps, and not much area to clamp. Then there were the indents the clamps made from squeezing for so long. Most of the indents have popped out over a 24 hour period, but there are still remnants of them. Hopefully over time, and some warmer temps, and they will hardly be noticeable.

Jim

I'd recommend a can of aresol, upside down. So it freezes. It freeze it, and you can just run something over it to wipe it off.