while Archie has been building the Enterra for the wife I've been working on a cooling fan upgrade project for the chop top at home. I'm at the point of wiring and I would like to use the supplied 40amp relay that came with the fan. Before I do this I need help finding a wiring diagram for the factory relay as I need to tap in to the fan trigger wire. The car still has AC so I believe it has two trigger wires? but the 40amp relay only has input for one, would it be ok to feed both trigger wires into the same relay port?
quote
The RA1000 and RA8000 are a SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) Automotive Relays. An SPDT Relay is an electromagnetic switch, consisting of a coil (terminals 85 & 86), 1 common terminal (30), 1 normally closed terminal (87a) and one normally open terminal (87). When the coil of an SPDT Relay (Figure 1) is at rest (not energized), the common terminal (30) and the normally closed terminal (87a) have continuity. When the coil is energized, the common terminal (30) and the normally open terminal (87) have continuity.
thanks for the reply! I was thinking about doing that as it would save me a lot of time , but after doing some research on this model fan on other forums a lot of guys that used the stock wiring on their cars say the fan made less CFM. When they switched to the supplied wiring the CFM was greater. I'm not sure as to why this would be true but figured it couldn't hurt to use the upgraded supplied wiring.
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 03-27-2014).]
Does it have anything to do with the direct 10g power lead from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the fan? Do you know what the amp rating is for the stock relay? I know I have a lot of questions but just don't want to fry it or make it less effective. They say it pulls more than 20 amps at start up but then it shows a 20amp fuse between the battery and relay on the wiring diagram
Thanks and please be patient with me ... this is the madness I put Archie through, BTW he said the stock should work also.
The car that this setup is going into has a supercharged LS7 with the heat exchanger in front of the AC exchanger. the car has never over heated on me but if I can prevent it I would like to. I've been to many hot rod shows with cars on the side of the road over heated in traffic. Its the stop and go traffic that always gets you on that 95 F+ day.
[This message has been edited by troyboy (edited 03-27-2014).]
I did the same thing with a hayden fan set up and just used factore wiring. Just used a different pigtail. I can actually feel the fan pulling and watch the temp drop while sitting!
Just wire th3 fan leads to the existing wire plug on the Fiero harness. The newer fans draw less amperage than the stock fan. It will work just fine.
It may work just fine but it may also run slower with the thinner wirer gauge. I know my friend who is an electrician says not to use an extension cord lower than a 12 gauge wire for lengths over 50' because it will burn up power tools, never had it happen myself but hey what do I know. because the thinner wirer will not allow the same amount of power over long runs, not sure if that holds true over shorter runs. but I also know because I have been looking into solar and alternative power and they recommend as thick a wire gauge as you can use to maximize Amps.
You can most likely get away with the stock wirer but the fan may run slower, just guessing as I am not an electrician.
Steve
------------------ Technology is great when it works, and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't
According to the wiring diagram, the fan supply, all the way back to the fusible link and ground wires are 12ga, well back to the distribution splice anyway... that should be good up to a 40A draw. If your fan exceeds that, check the documentation, upgrade your wiring and verify the current rating of the the relay being used...
The 3 in font of the color of the wire is the metric wire size in cross sectional area... 3mm2 is equivalent to 12ga.
[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 03-27-2014).]
Originally posted by troyboy: thanks for the reply! I was thinking about doing that as it would save me a lot of time , but after doing some research on this model fan on other forums a lot of guys that used the stock wiring on their cars say the fan made less CFM. When they switched to the supplied wiring the CFM was greater. I'm not sure as to why this would be true but figured it couldn't hurt to use the upgraded supplied wiring.
Is BS. Their OE wiring was hosed... They measured CFM flow how? Or did they get RPM of motor before and after? Unlikely. Did they check volts and amps? Probably not. Iffy wiring/ground can cause voltage drop and high amps. Low volt can cause low RPM etc. Likely just need to get a new relay and/or fix grounds. See my Cave, Electric Motors
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Thanks for all the info guys! I have some thinking to do tonight on this as I plan to do the fan swap this weekend. If I use the new 40amp relay I looks like I would just need to connect the green and white wire to the 85 port on the new relay. But man oh man using stock sounds tempting and a lot quicker.
... this is the madness I put Archie through, BTW he said the stock should work also.
