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Tune up resulted in loss of power?? by dreale
Started on: 03-24-2014 12:38 PM
Replies: 12 (180 views)
Last post by: carbon on 03-25-2014 11:21 AM
dreale
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Report this Post03-24-2014 12:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for drealeClick Here to Email drealeSend a Private Message to drealeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My 1985 V-6 GT had idle problems, and then failed smog-- later found the EGR valve was loose. I tightened it up thinking it was the problem, and it failed smog again! Emissions however were better, the hydrocarbons dropped to 2.56 and the max allowed was 2.4. All other areas of smog it passed. I bought a new EGR valve, replaced the idle air control valve, cleaned out the EGR tube that was found to have a clog in it, and did a tune up with new plugs, cap, rotor and checked codes: it said it needed an O2 sensor also. After replacing that also and setting the timing, the car started fine and now idles much better. Now there is NO POWER! What should I check before dragging it off to the shop......
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lou_dias
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Report this Post03-24-2014 12:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasClick Here to Email lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
part-throttle response is better without EGR, IMHO...perhaps that's what you perceive as "no power"....
I typically eliminate EGR on all my cars eventually...
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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post03-24-2014 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerClick Here to Email BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Auto or 5-speed?

The automatic has to be timed in gear. Best to run it up against a curb while doing the procedure so it doesn't run away..
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lou_dias
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Report this Post03-24-2014 01:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasClick Here to Email lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
when setting the timing, I hope you shorted the A and B pins on the ALDL connector...
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2.5
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Report this Post03-24-2014 03:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 2.5Send a Private Message to 2.5Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have had different EGRs off the shelf affect mileage and feel of power differently. But timing haveing been changed I would think could be the issue here, what was it set at, and is it set at now?
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post03-24-2014 03:57 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you moved the distributor, you changed the timing. You could have cracked the EGR tube moving it around, but you would probably have a high idle. If you have the right plugs (gapped correctly), the right firing order (and all wires connected good) and the cap and rotor are good...it shouldnt have affected performance.
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phonedawgz
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Report this Post03-24-2014 06:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by lou_dias:

when setting the timing, I hope you shorted the A and B pins on the ALDL connector...


+1

If A - B isn't jumpered, or not jumpered properly, the result is the timing is about 10 deg retarded and power is noticeably reduced.
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My87gt
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Report this Post03-24-2014 11:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for My87gtClick Here to visit My87gt's HomePageClick Here to Email My87gtSend a Private Message to My87gtEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Boostdreamer:

Auto or 5-speed?

The automatic has to be timed in gear. Best to run it up against a curb while doing the procedure so it doesn't run away..


Can you provide some more information on this?
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dreale
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Report this Post03-25-2014 11:05 AM Click Here to See the Profile for drealeClick Here to Email drealeSend a Private Message to drealeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Here's more information:

My Fiero is a 1985 manual 4-speed V-6, 136,000 miles on it. Before doing anything, I checked the codes and got #13,23,24,33, and 35 codes. I jumped the A and B terminals before setting timing. I gapped all new plugs to .045, and am running AC #1 Rapidfires, with a new MSD cap and rotor and MSD wires, and an MSD Blaster coil. It has a new AC Delco brand EGR valve (no washers were put in the opening to change the diameter- the instructions did not specify my model as needing one, and there was no old washer there to change the orifice opening when I removed the old EGR valve). I cleaned and re-oiled the K&N air filter, and replaced the O2 sensor with a Bosch brand one. I also installed a new idle air control valve and the car is idling much better than before. I don't think the EGR tube cracked when I put it back in with new gaskets (when I first removed it, the top of the tube was clogged by the gasket about 75%. I cleaned it, and put in new gaskets and was careful not to crack the tube). Timing was way off from when I set it about 1 year ago, and I had to turn the distributor clockwise quite a bit. I'm guessing it was around 15 degrees or more before I adjusted it. When I finished setting timing, the #1 spark plug was at 9 degrees and the #4 was at 11 degrees. This was the problem: There was no power. I put it back close to where it originally was before setting the timing, and the power came back. Open to all ideas here, thanks.
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jaskispyder
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Report this Post03-25-2014 11:09 AM Click Here to See the Profile for jaskispyderSend a Private Message to jaskispyderEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by My87gt:


Can you provide some more information on this?


Never heard about timing in gear... hmmm, I don't think that is correct.
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carbon
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Report this Post03-25-2014 11:16 AM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Boostdreamer:

The automatic has to be timed in gear. Best to run it up against a curb while doing the procedure so it doesn't run away..


No... sorry, that is not correct.
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lou_dias
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Report this Post03-25-2014 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for lou_diasClick Here to Email lou_diasSend a Private Message to lou_diasEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'd check your timing chain for slack...your cam/distributor may be lagging behind due to that...
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carbon
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Report this Post03-25-2014 11:21 AM Click Here to See the Profile for carbonSend a Private Message to carbonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by dreale:
When I finished setting timing, the #1 spark plug was at 9 degrees and the #4 was at 11 degrees. This was the problem: There was no power. I put it back close to where it originally was before setting the timing, and the power came back. Open to all ideas here, thanks.


Possibly your harmonic balancer has slipped and the timing mark is no longer accurate.

How common is a slipped balancer ring?

Edit: Lou's suggestion was huge in my case... to get 10* I literally had to turn the distributor about as far as it would go towards the intake...

Sweet mother of rattle...

 
quote
From where the ignition timing ended up after the new chain was installed, the cam was retarded somewhere around 6-8 degrees because of the stretched chain.

[This message has been edited by carbon (edited 03-25-2014).]

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