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Brake Issues by craigsfiero2007
Started on: 03-21-2014 06:18 PM
Replies: 47 (594 views)
Last post by: craigsfiero2007 on 04-03-2014 04:51 PM
84fiero123
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Report this Post04-01-2014 07:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by craigsfiero2007:


Yeah. The correct caliper that works properly makes a huge difference.




So I take it, bleeding it was a breeze?

Steve
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craigsfiero2007
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Report this Post04-01-2014 08:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigsfiero2007Click Here to Email craigsfiero2007Send a Private Message to craigsfiero2007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 84fiero123:




So I take it, bleeding it was a breeze?

Steve


Meh, it took a while to get all the bubbles. I am sure I got them all.

Now, I need new pads and rotors. The peddle is still too soft for me. The pads are pretty thin and the rotors are worn and old. Would worn pads and rotors make the brake light come on?

[This message has been edited by craigsfiero2007 (edited 04-01-2014).]

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David Hambleton
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Report this Post04-02-2014 09:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Soft pedal - still some air somewhere.
Thin pads and/or worn rotors won't give a soft pedal - they don't compress with braking pressure.
Brake warning light - low brake pressure. Either a leak or air in the system is being compressed. If pumping compresses the air enough to build pressure the light will go off.

Are you bleeding in Fiero order? From left rear to right rear to right front to left front.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post04-03-2014 09:32 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

Soft pedal - still some air somewhere.
Thin pads and/or worn rotors won't give a soft pedal - they don't compress with braking pressure.
Brake warning light - low brake pressure. Either a leak or air in the system is being compressed. If pumping compresses the air enough to build pressure the light will go off.

Are you bleeding in Fiero order? From left rear to right rear to right front to left front.


Ayup what he said, keep bleeding, the thickness of all those shouldn't make any difference in pedal stiffness. but if they are in that bad shape I would definitely replace them before bleeding any more. the pedal should stay when held down to stop, it shouldn't drift down at all once you are stopped, that is also a sure sign of air in the lines.

Dude you must have gone threw a gallon of fluid already bleeding this set of brakes. replace the pads and rotors then bleed them again, you probably already are going to have to ratchet the piston back in now from all the bleeding you have done.

Steve

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craigsfiero2007
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Report this Post04-03-2014 11:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for craigsfiero2007Click Here to Email craigsfiero2007Send a Private Message to craigsfiero2007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by David Hambleton:

Soft pedal - still some air somewhere.
Thin pads and/or worn rotors won't give a soft pedal - they don't compress with braking pressure.
Brake warning light - low brake pressure. Either a leak or air in the system is being compressed. If pumping compresses the air enough to build pressure the light will go off.

Are you bleeding in Fiero order? From left rear to right rear to right front to left front.


I bled them again yesterday and I am sure there is no air in the system. It still has a weak pedal, my problems are now with the Master Cylinder. If I press the pedal with even, consistent pressure the pedal will go to the floor with little pressure. But if I pump the brakes or slam on the brake pedal, I have some-what usable brakes. Yes, I did bleed them in proper order, many times over.

[This message has been edited by craigsfiero2007 (edited 04-03-2014).]

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craigsfiero2007
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quote
Originally posted by 84fiero123:


Ayup what he said, keep bleeding, the thickness of all those shouldn't make any difference in pedal stiffness. but if they are in that bad shape I would definitely replace them before bleeding any more. the pedal should stay when held down to stop, it shouldn't drift down at all once you are stopped, that is also a sure sign of air in the lines.

Dude you must have gone threw a gallon of fluid already bleeding this set of brakes. replace the pads and rotors then bleed them again, you probably already are going to have to ratchet the piston back in now from all the bleeding you have done.

Steve



Yeah, I have gone through 1.5 gallons of brake fluid so far. I am sure I no longer have air in the system anymore. While vacuum bleeding, the fluid was coming out of the bleeder valves clean and free of bubbles.
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84fiero123
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Report this Post04-03-2014 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by craigsfiero2007:


Yeah, I have gone through 1.5 gallons of brake fluid so far. I am sure I no longer have air in the system anymore. While vacuum bleeding, the fluid was coming out of the bleeder valves clean and free of bubbles.


Then it has got to be the MC unless you have a leaks somewhere that you haven't found yet. And you are going to go threw some more fluid yet if you have to replace the MC again, don't forget to bench bleed it before you put it in and that will save you some, it maybe even could save you bleeding the entire system, may. I got away with that once and only once when changing those. good luck.

Steve
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craigsfiero2007
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Report this Post04-03-2014 04:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for craigsfiero2007Click Here to Email craigsfiero2007Send a Private Message to craigsfiero2007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by 84fiero123:


Then it has got to be the MC unless you have a leaks somewhere that you haven't found yet. And you are going to go threw some more fluid yet if you have to replace the MC again, don't forget to bench bleed it before you put it in and that will save you some, it maybe even could save you bleeding the entire system, may. I got away with that once and only once when changing those. good luck.

Steve


I put eyes and hands on almost the entire braking system to check for leaks. Plus I am not losing any fluid. I may try to install the "New" Master Cylinder I bought and installed and then swapped back out for the old one to see if the "New" one is actually bad. Thanks Steve.

[This message has been edited by craigsfiero2007 (edited 04-03-2014).]

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