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good easy out set? for rounded bolt by nickbrown
Started on: 03-11-2014 10:36 AM
Replies: 16 (362 views)
Last post by: 84fiero123 on 03-14-2014 07:29 AM
nickbrown
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Report this Post03-11-2014 10:36 AM Click Here to See the Profile for nickbrownClick Here to Email nickbrownSend a Private Message to nickbrownEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
need to remove a rounded 5/8 bolt, what would be a good easy out set to buy? where?

I am thinking about JB welding a 5/8 socket to the bolt, I have tried vice grips, pipe wrench, the sucker is on tighter then hell, i have aslo grounded the bolt on 2 sides to make it flat, so the bolt is probably smaller then 5/8,
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84fiero123
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Report this Post03-11-2014 11:51 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Sears sells them

http://www.sears.com/search...20out?levels=Tools\\

for your problem

http://www.sears.com/crafts...ockNo=7&blockType=G7

Steve

------------------
Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

[This message has been edited by 84fiero123 (edited 03-11-2014).]

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tebailey
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Report this Post03-11-2014 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
JB weld will not hold. If anything you need to weld a nut onto the rounded head, and use a 6 point socket. 12 points are all right for general use, but really tight bolts a 6 point will prevent rounding the head.

Edit, makes sure you let the weld cool off before pulling the bolt. The heat from the weld will expand the bolt in the hole and once cooled should loose it.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 03-11-2014).]

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phonedawgz
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Report this Post03-11-2014 01:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for phonedawgzClick Here to visit phonedawgz's HomePageClick Here to Email phonedawgzSend a Private Message to phonedawgzEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You don't use an easy out on a bolt with a rounded head.

Exhaust manifold bolt?
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Tooshea
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Report this Post03-11-2014 03:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ToosheaClick Here to Email ToosheaSend a Private Message to ToosheaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nickbrown:

need to remove a rounded 5/8 bolt, what would be a good easy out set to buy? where?

I am thinking about JB welding a 5/8 socket to the bolt, I have tried vice grips, pipe wrench, the sucker is on tighter then hell, i have aslo grounded the bolt on 2 sides to make it flat, so the bolt is probably smaller then 5/8,


Yes! Do that.. JB weld might not be strong enough but it never hurts to try. I actually cut some threads in mine then had a mobile welder dude come out. After he left I got the broken bolts out.. still took about 30 mins of cussing.

I did try easyout and I broke the damn thing. So, if you have a NO BS my bolt hasn't been moved in 30 years dont use an easyout.. JMO..
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85GT_3800SC
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Report this Post03-11-2014 03:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85GT_3800SCClick Here to Email 85GT_3800SCSend a Private Message to 85GT_3800SCEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you can, try smacking the top of the bolt head with a hammer a few times.This can break the rust which may be holding the bolt threads.Soak it good with PB blaster/penetrating oil and try turning it. If you can't get a good wrench on it, I would try as stated above,weld a new bolt head onto the rounded one and then use a 6-point socket to loosen.The heat from welding may be enough to help loosen the bolt.
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IROCTAFIERO
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Report this Post03-11-2014 04:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for IROCTAFIEROSend a Private Message to IROCTAFIEROEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Reverse rotation drill bits are my favorite way of removing stripped/rounded bolts.
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nickbrown
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Report this Post03-11-2014 05:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nickbrownClick Here to Email nickbrownSend a Private Message to nickbrownEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
oil pan bolt.

it's now a 7/16 in size.

it appears to be 8 or more bottles of oil in there, dipstick is showing double over the line.

the guy that owned this car before me must have pissed off a mechanic or something, everything is over tight.

I am going to drill a hole and use a easy out, if that fails, then i am going to drill the thing out, if that fails, then i might try to remove the oil pan.

or would it be easier to remove the oil pan? how many bolts hold it on? are they going to be a problem

[This message has been edited by nickbrown (edited 03-11-2014).]

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fieroguru
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Report this Post03-11-2014 05:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fieroguruSend a Private Message to fieroguruEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Weld a nut to it. This does 2 things.

1. It gives you a good place to get a wrench on it.
2. The thermal shock of the welding process normally breaks the bolt free.
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fierofool
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Report this Post03-11-2014 05:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You can probably pick up a set of these at an industrial supply house. Any place that sells machinist tooling.


Drill the appropriate size hole in the end, If you have good clearance without danger of causing a fire, heat the stud, then let it cool. Next, place the end of an AC recharge hose over the end of the stud and give it a good long long blast of R134a. Immediately give it a little rap on the end then install the appropriate size stud remover and see if it will back out. These bolt removers are pretty strong and have less tendency to snap off compared to the reverse twist drill style, in part because they're shorter and are almost fully inserted into the broken bolt.
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nickbrown
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Report this Post03-11-2014 06:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nickbrownClick Here to Email nickbrownSend a Private Message to nickbrownEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I jb welded a beefy 7/16 on there, pounded it on tight, says wait 24 hours but going to wait 48 hours
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nickbrown
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Report this Post03-12-2014 10:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for nickbrownClick Here to Email nickbrownSend a Private Message to nickbrownEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I have these tools, they do not work.
http://www.sears.com/crafts...ockNo=7&blockType=G7

the socket are backwards, it will grip when turning right but will not grip when turning left, which makes no sense, why call it a bolt extractor when all it does it make the bolt tighter? unless i am missing something?

I rounded off a spark plug using a grinder and stuck the spark plug in the work bench vice as tight as it would go, that socket will grip no matter what, but it will jump off if i turn it left? it's claws are made to grip when turn right..

I am using 5/8 socket.

my set was made by irwin

[This message has been edited by nickbrown (edited 03-12-2014).]

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nickbrown
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Boostdreamer
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Report this Post03-13-2014 12:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BoostdreamerClick Here to Email BoostdreamerSend a Private Message to BoostdreamerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I've tried 4 different sets of "easy outs", used the reverse thread drill bits, heated with propane, cooled with freeze spray (can't remember the name), and soaked with PB Blaster. None of that crap EVER worked for me.

If welding a bolt to it is an option, don't waste your time with anything else. Do it.

I ended up using my dremmel and grinding my exhaust header bolt out and re-threading. Grinding and re-threading took a fraction of the time I wasted on "easy outs".
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KurtAKX
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Report this Post03-13-2014 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for KurtAKXSend a Private Message to KurtAKXEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Weld a nut to it. This does 2 things.

1. It gives you a good place to get a wrench on it.
2. The thermal shock of the welding process normally breaks the bolt free.


This. 15 years of playing this game in Michigan where we intentionally put corrosion juice on the roads agrees with you.
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jpeeler
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Report this Post03-13-2014 08:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for jpeelerClick Here to Email jpeelerSend a Private Message to jpeelerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by nickbrown:

would this work? http://shop.advanceautopart...Term=bolt+extractors


I bought an irwin set similar to that one but then ended up getting this sears set and it worked for me on a rounded cradle bolt. The sears set seemed to cut in to the bolt better.
http://www.sears.com/crafts...t-low/p-00952166000P
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84fiero123
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Report this Post03-14-2014 07:29 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 84fiero123Click Here to Email 84fiero123Send a Private Message to 84fiero123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fieroguru:

Weld a nut to it. This does 2 things.

1. It gives you a good place to get a wrench on it.
2. The thermal shock of the welding process normally breaks the bolt free.


Then this is your only real option that is guarantied to work. The heat from welding the nut on will brake the frozen bolt lose. but if I remember right you said it was an oil drain bolt? that should never freeze like the one you are talking about, they are constantly in an oil bath, most likely someone didn't have the right size wrench and stripped the bolt head, I bet a buck the washer is also missing when you do get it off.

Steve
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