need to remove a rounded 5/8 bolt, what would be a good easy out set to buy? where?
I am thinking about JB welding a 5/8 socket to the bolt, I have tried vice grips, pipe wrench, the sucker is on tighter then hell, i have aslo grounded the bolt on 2 sides to make it flat, so the bolt is probably smaller then 5/8,
JB weld will not hold. If anything you need to weld a nut onto the rounded head, and use a 6 point socket. 12 points are all right for general use, but really tight bolts a 6 point will prevent rounding the head.
Edit, makes sure you let the weld cool off before pulling the bolt. The heat from the weld will expand the bolt in the hole and once cooled should loose it.
[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 03-11-2014).]
need to remove a rounded 5/8 bolt, what would be a good easy out set to buy? where?
I am thinking about JB welding a 5/8 socket to the bolt, I have tried vice grips, pipe wrench, the sucker is on tighter then hell, i have aslo grounded the bolt on 2 sides to make it flat, so the bolt is probably smaller then 5/8,
Yes! Do that.. JB weld might not be strong enough but it never hurts to try. I actually cut some threads in mine then had a mobile welder dude come out. After he left I got the broken bolts out.. still took about 30 mins of cussing.
I did try easyout and I broke the damn thing. So, if you have a NO BS my bolt hasn't been moved in 30 years dont use an easyout.. JMO..
If you can, try smacking the top of the bolt head with a hammer a few times.This can break the rust which may be holding the bolt threads.Soak it good with PB blaster/penetrating oil and try turning it. If you can't get a good wrench on it, I would try as stated above,weld a new bolt head onto the rounded one and then use a 6-point socket to loosen.The heat from welding may be enough to help loosen the bolt.
it appears to be 8 or more bottles of oil in there, dipstick is showing double over the line.
the guy that owned this car before me must have pissed off a mechanic or something, everything is over tight.
I am going to drill a hole and use a easy out, if that fails, then i am going to drill the thing out, if that fails, then i might try to remove the oil pan.
or would it be easier to remove the oil pan? how many bolts hold it on? are they going to be a problem
[This message has been edited by nickbrown (edited 03-11-2014).]
You can probably pick up a set of these at an industrial supply house. Any place that sells machinist tooling.
Drill the appropriate size hole in the end, If you have good clearance without danger of causing a fire, heat the stud, then let it cool. Next, place the end of an AC recharge hose over the end of the stud and give it a good long long blast of R134a. Immediately give it a little rap on the end then install the appropriate size stud remover and see if it will back out. These bolt removers are pretty strong and have less tendency to snap off compared to the reverse twist drill style, in part because they're shorter and are almost fully inserted into the broken bolt.
the socket are backwards, it will grip when turning right but will not grip when turning left, which makes no sense, why call it a bolt extractor when all it does it make the bolt tighter? unless i am missing something?
I rounded off a spark plug using a grinder and stuck the spark plug in the work bench vice as tight as it would go, that socket will grip no matter what, but it will jump off if i turn it left? it's claws are made to grip when turn right..
I am using 5/8 socket.
my set was made by irwin
[This message has been edited by nickbrown (edited 03-12-2014).]
I've tried 4 different sets of "easy outs", used the reverse thread drill bits, heated with propane, cooled with freeze spray (can't remember the name), and soaked with PB Blaster. None of that crap EVER worked for me.
If welding a bolt to it is an option, don't waste your time with anything else. Do it.
I ended up using my dremmel and grinding my exhaust header bolt out and re-threading. Grinding and re-threading took a fraction of the time I wasted on "easy outs".
I bought an irwin set similar to that one but then ended up getting this sears set and it worked for me on a rounded cradle bolt. The sears set seemed to cut in to the bolt better. http://www.sears.com/crafts...t-low/p-00952166000P
1. It gives you a good place to get a wrench on it. 2. The thermal shock of the welding process normally breaks the bolt free.
Then this is your only real option that is guarantied to work. The heat from welding the nut on will brake the frozen bolt lose. but if I remember right you said it was an oil drain bolt? that should never freeze like the one you are talking about, they are constantly in an oil bath, most likely someone didn't have the right size wrench and stripped the bolt head, I bet a buck the washer is also missing when you do get it off.