has tech articles ... here are some I wrote that may help.http://www.michiganfieroclu...m/files/dewstrip.pdfhttp://www.michiganfieroclub.com/files/power.pdf
If your door is aligned properly.... basically, there are brackets that stop the window in the up position. You need to move these up, so as the window will go up higher. Also, you can tilt the window in at the top. The adjustments are there, you just have to look for them.
97 and 93 are the upper stops (in they second PDF)
I don't remember, the bolts for the tilt, but basically they tilt the glass at the bottom, so as the top will tilt in or out.
Also found this:
First get a copy of a Haynes or better yet the Helms manual. Either one tells you were the adjustment screws are for the door window. Chiltons does not have this information.
Next remove the inner door panel.
Remove the moisture barrier.
For reference, there are two adjusters on the top of the door frame (10 mm bolts). These control the tightness of the window and help keep the window from falling too fast. If you loosen these, the window will wobble and be loose. So make sure they are adjusted correctly and the window is not wobbling when rolled up and so the window does not rattle when in the up position. (note: don't make these adjustments too tight or the window will get scratches from the pads, tighten them enough to keep window from rattling.)
With this reference, look for the vertical rail that the window rides in, located near the latch of the door. At the top of this rail there are two 10mm bolts. Loosen both bolts. (you may have to loosen the bottom pivoting 10mm bolt) Now take the rail and push out towards the outer door panel. while pushing you will notice the top of the window (note: window is rolled up) will move inwards. While holding the rail in the position you think is right....tighten the two bolts on the vertical rail.
try the door many times. you may not get it right the first few tries.
This back rail controls the inward and outward movement of the top of the window, mostly the back half of the window. To move the front portion of the window in, you have to adust the front rail in a similar manner. But I suggest you adjust the back first because you get the most bang for the buck.
If you look at the Haynes this adjustment procedure will be clearer. If needed I can post a picture on my web page or send it as an attachement to those that need it.
Now there is a limit adjuster that controls the height of the window in the up position. These adjusters are on the upper part of the door panel, but NOT on the horizontal part near the dew wipe. If you loosen the front or back, you can roll up the window to the position you want it to stop and then tighten the stoppers. Usually this is all set from the factory and shouldn't need adjusting. Haynes explains it too.
I recommend that you look at all the adjustments on the door and try to imagine what they do before starting. Use the Haynes and my note to help you discover the problem and how to adjust the window. If the window is not rolling up far enough then do procedure 2. If the window is rolling up fine but it sticks outward too much then do procedure 1. If the window just rattles when up, try the first suggestion of adjusting the two adjusters that are next to the dew wipe.