I recently acquired a 1988 formula. At first I had my doubts but the tittle said such. It did have the formula rear bumper but a S.E. front nose. Also it had the ribbed trim up to the doors, and smooth trim in the rear.


Well when I got it it did not run po installed another fuel pump. Come to find out the fire order was backwards. the plug wires matched that of a 2.8 Camaro not the Fiero witch is different. Anyways now the car runs great.
While driving I noticed wind noise from the sun roof. Well I searched the threads and found how to tighten the glass. Did that, now problem solved.



now on to the other issues
The doors are way out of whack. You have to slam the doors. The windows will not go all the way up with the doors shut. to get the windows all the way up you have to open the doors. Which is a pain in the butt.
















I have searched pff all I could find is info about door adjust, and that door glass is adjustable. No luck.Can anyone help?
Also there are a few other issues I can show pics of.
















The dashboard wes cracked so I leather wrapped it. I like the look.








































OK that's all the pics for now. Any help with those imperfections would be appreciated. Thanks.

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http://i1260.photobucket.co...0687_zps968f8a62.jpg
86 SE 3800 n/a
95 Dodge Ram w/ carbureted 360 hd motor, 518 transmission
76 Ironhead sportster chopper
78 kz1000 bobber
88 fiero formula v6 5sp 91k miles

Your doors are low. Open the door and lift up on the end, is there play? If so you need new pins and bushings. If not, you need to adjust the hinges to get the door back in alignment and the window issue will solve itself

Sounds and looks like she got hit bad at one time and the PO got some parts from a few different years and just slapped it back together to make a few bucks.

my 86 SE got in a bad wreck before I got it, entire frt end was gone, bumper, radiator, hood, LT fender. so I just got the parts off my 84 and used those, but my 84 wasn't and SE so the frt bumper doesn't have the same ground effects frt whatever its called. Not a problem for me as I figure if I had gotten the SE bumper it would already have been destroyed just going in and out of driveways here in Maine.

The different side moldings are obviously from different year cars just from the sounds of it and the interior speakers are from an 86 but the side moldings they fit in are not, 84 and 85 had seat speakers, 86, to 88 had the speakers in the side panels. further proven someone slapped it together with whatever parts they had laying around or could find.


Steve

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Technology is great when it works,
and one big pain in the ass when it doesn't



Detroit iron rules all the rest are just toys.

I was looking at the front carefully and found where the front had been welded on. So the car has been wrecked. That would explain a few things most of which are in the pictures.

www.michiganfieroclub.com has tech articles ... here are some I wrote that may help.
http://www.michiganfieroclu...m/files/dewstrip.pdf
http://www.michiganfieroclub.com/files/power.pdf

If your door is aligned properly.... basically, there are brackets that stop the window in the up position. You need to move these up, so as the window will go up higher. Also, you can tilt the window in at the top. The adjustments are there, you just have to look for them.

97 and 93 are the upper stops (in they second PDF)
I don't remember, the bolts for the tilt, but basically they tilt the glass at the bottom, so as the top will tilt in or out.

Also found this:
First get a copy of a Haynes or better yet the Helms manual. Either one tells you were the adjustment screws are for the door window. Chiltons does not have this information.
Next remove the inner door panel.
Remove the moisture barrier.
For reference, there are two adjusters on the top of the door frame (10 mm bolts). These control the tightness of the window and help keep the window from falling too fast. If you loosen these, the window will wobble and be loose. So make sure they are adjusted correctly and the window is not wobbling when rolled up and so the window does not rattle when in the up position. (note: don't make these adjustments too tight or the window will get scratches from the pads, tighten them enough to keep window from rattling.)
Procedure 1:
With this reference, look for the vertical rail that the window rides in, located near the latch of the door. At the top of this rail there are two 10mm bolts. Loosen both bolts. (you may have to loosen the bottom pivoting 10mm bolt) Now take the rail and push out towards the outer door panel. while pushing you will notice the top of the window (note: window is rolled up) will move inwards. While holding the rail in the position you think is right....tighten the two bolts on the vertical rail.
try the door many times. you may not get it right the first few tries.
This back rail controls the inward and outward movement of the top of the window, mostly the back half of the window. To move the front portion of the window in, you have to adust the front rail in a similar manner. But I suggest you adjust the back first because you get the most bang for the buck.
If you look at the Haynes this adjustment procedure will be clearer. If needed I can post a picture on my web page or send it as an attachement to those that need it.
Procedure 2:
Now there is a limit adjuster that controls the height of the window in the up position. These adjusters are on the upper part of the door panel, but NOT on the horizontal part near the dew wipe. If you loosen the front or back, you can roll up the window to the position you want it to stop and then tighten the stoppers. Usually this is all set from the factory and shouldn't need adjusting. Haynes explains it too.
I recommend that you look at all the adjustments on the door and try to imagine what they do before starting. Use the Haynes and my note to help you discover the problem and how to adjust the window. If the window is not rolling up far enough then do procedure 2. If the window is rolling up fine but it sticks outward too much then do procedure 1. If the window just rattles when up, try the first suggestion of adjusting the two adjusters that are next to the dew wipe.

Just so you know I got myself into a similar situation. Word of advise.. DONT EVER BUY A CAR UNDER A TARP OUTSIDE THAT HAS BEEN SITTING FOR 23 YEARS. (Unless its one of those cars you can turn around and sell it for 100k in the shape its in) We'll I hope you're ready to do some work. It sounds like you have a useable machine. You should start with a plan and try to stick to it so the car doesnt suck the life out of you. The last thing you want is to feel like you're not getting anywhere. If you're going to work on the outside of the car, stick to the outside until you get it to where you want then, start on.. Lets say the interior next stick with just the interior until you're finished.. What I'm saying to you is.. Start with a plan of what you want to accomplish in stages. Unless you have entire crew working for you like Chip Foose then what I just said doesnt matter. :P..

All the things you've taken pics of is great. Most of it is easily fixable. Most of the stuff you need to replace can be found at the Fiero store. Like the interior parts they have some but you'll need to search for the door mirror control bezel. Lots of little things for sure!

Good luck with your Restore.

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Tim and Lynn
1987 Fastback GT in restore mode..

I admit I got my hands full that's for sure. I traded an old raggedy truck with no trans for the car. I think I got the better deal. The car has 90k miles. Runs and drives immaculate. The truck only had approx $150.00 in it. So whatever I do to properly restore this thing will be worth it. I'm not sinking any money in the motor cause I got a l67 to install when the motor kicks the bucket. The motor is so strong I don't see it happening soon.

Well if you like working on cars you're going to have a blast with this one! Enjoy

I adjusted the door yesterday. Man it was a booger. The door had to be lifted and twisted outward at the top a lot. But after 3 hours finally got it. When I removed the fender I found where the front clip had been welded on. How can/ do you check for true?

figured out what was wrong with the deck lid and why it wouldn't fit right. The deck lid was cracked and the pressure from the hinge spring was warping it. I switch deck lids off my 86 and blow in the hold it works great. everything lines up. Not an exact color match but hey! it's a work in progress.

Formulas also didn't have the ground effects or the 14 inch Hi-Tech Turbo wheels. Almost all had FORMULA script on the doors. Can we get a shot of the engine that also shows the rear shock towers? Also a low angle shot of the rear bumper from directly behind and centered? Even with a confirmed history of a wreck and repair, there seems to be very little "formula" stuff about this car.

Sorry for the delay here are those pics of the rear


this is the only pic i have on my comp of the rear

this is the vin plate

i know this is not exactly what your asking for but this is what i could find I'll take better more specific pics when it stops raining long enough

these are the wheels that were on the car. the tires were shot so i put the 14s off my 86 temporarily or it. then someone stole the wheels

this is another of the rear bumper

again these pics are when i first got it and were cleaning it up

You may have a 'Big Thing' with all those little things....if the frame was welded incorrectly you will never get the panels to fit right.

Well, it is an 88 notchie with a V6. That spells Formula unless the engine was swapped as well. Did you decode the VIN?

One thing about this car, you won't feel guilty about making any changes from what came from the factory.

Make sure the frame is worthy of your time, money, and effort and then go crazy with it and just have fun!!