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  How to remove Plexi panel on dash. Temp needle fell off

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How to remove Plexi panel on dash. Temp needle fell off by xmcb8
Started on: 03-05-2014 12:34 PM
Replies: 6 (373 views)
Last post by: armos on 03-07-2014 07:42 PM
xmcb8
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Report this Post03-05-2014 12:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for xmcb8Click Here to Email xmcb8Send a Private Message to xmcb8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hi All, need some help. The temp needle fell off my 1988 GT. Can't get plexi dash panel off. Everything removed and panel is loose on bottom and sides. Can't figure out how to get top out. Must be a trick, just know it. Thanks
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hiwil88formula
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Report this Post03-05-2014 12:52 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hiwil88formulaClick Here to Email hiwil88formulaSend a Private Message to hiwil88formulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You have to remove the two bolts that hold the cluster to the steering column they are 10 mm bolts. You will have to remove the shroud that covers them. You also need to remove the lower shroud. After all the shroud's are removed unplug the 3 wiring harness and you can remove the cluster. Might also be a good time to do the temp gauge fix located here. http://www.fierosails.com/tempgage.html
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fierofool
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Report this Post03-05-2014 05:03 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I believe there are two tiny hidden screws that hold the lens cover onto the instrument cluster. If you don't have the instrument pod removed, use a makeup or dental mirror to search around the edges to locate them. There is one on either side of the steering column arch and one above each speedo and tach, and hidden up underneath the soft vinyl lip. It's easy to overlook them and break the lens. It can be done without removing the cluster once you've removed the gauge trim plate. A small combination wrench can do the trick.

By leaving the panel in the car, you can leave the harnesses connected. Turn the ignition to the ON position and install the needle pointing at the 100 mark. A little Elmers Carpenters Glue on the pin works very well. Let it stand overnight to cure well.
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James Bond 007
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Report this Post03-05-2014 05:51 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Welcome to the forum. From what I remember I had to push on the outter houseing to see a few of those screws and if you still can't get a mini socket in there,use an old socket and grind down the walls of the socket.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post03-06-2014 10:48 AM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Just for the record, its not plexiglass...its just the cheapest molded thermoplastic they make... When you get it off btw, its a good time to correct any of the gauges that read wrong like fuel level. Just pull straight off, and press it back on where you want. Lots of them seem to read like 1/4 tank when empty. All the gauges are the same way.
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xmcb8
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Report this Post03-06-2014 12:16 PM Click Here to See the Profile for xmcb8Click Here to Email xmcb8Send a Private Message to xmcb8Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Wow, Thanks for all the responses. Will start working again this PM. This is so cool. Thanks again.
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armos
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Report this Post03-07-2014 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for armosSend a Private Message to armosEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
When setting the position of the needle, I'd refer to the resistance chart in the fierosails article that hiwil88formula mentioned. If you can get hold of some resistors, plug some reasonable resistance value into the connector for the gauge sender, which is the one facing the trunk at driver's side of the engine. Preferably use a value that represents a temperature where you really care about the accuracy. Then position the needle to match.
I think 220F has an obvious hash mark on the gauge, so it's probably a good reference point. A value of 145ohms == 220F, 150ohms would be just slightly colder.
Setting it to 100 with the key on might work, but I'd be uncomfortable with not knowing whether it's still on track at higher readings.
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