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Installing inner wheel bearing on front rotor 84' SE without press? by mckaymotoworks
Started on: 02-23-2014 12:23 PM
Replies: 54 (945 views)
Last post by: jaskispyder on 02-25-2014 03:52 PM
mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 12:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Is it possible to safely install the inner bearing without a press? The only shop open on a Sunday is the local Firestone and the tech wants $20 a rotor off the books.
I am tapped out, having $500+ in new parts and payday is not until Friday. I purchased front/rear hoses, front/rear rotors, front bearings, front/rear calipers, front/rear pads.

I also do not see this procedure covered in the workshop manual unless I am overlooking it.
What grease type should it be packed with?

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Blacktree
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Report this Post02-23-2014 12:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You could probably do it with a ball-joint press, if you're careful. Many auto parts stores have loan-a-tool programs.

But personally, I'd rather wait to get it done right.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 01:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The bearing looks like it just fits in there, taper cone down. I don't see how it would press down further without distorting the bearing.
Maybe it's different on an 84'?
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Report this Post02-23-2014 01:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
On second thought, I'm not sure if any ball-joint press can reach around the brake disc, anyway.

While the bearing itself isn't pressed in, the outer race is.
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katatak
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Report this Post02-23-2014 01:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
If you are servicing the bearings - no press needed. If you are installing new bearings, the inner bearing race can be driven out using a punch from the front side. I use a brass punch to install the new one. The bearing itself does not require any force - pack it with grease, set it in place and install the new seal. Follow service manual instructions to set and adjust bearings.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 01:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Shops replace them all the time without presses. You can just use a punch. I've dozen that way. You just have to take your time and be sure you start it straight and work it straight. Keep working side to side to keep it even and straight as it down into the bore. It bottoms out on the ridge in the bore. You don't have to tap hard. You will know when your are there as you hear the sound of taping on it change making a very different (solid) sound.

You remove them the same way. There sould be a dip on each side of the bore (middle inside of the hub) where you can just get the edge of the race to start tapping it out. I have had some that it was so slight that I had to take a die grinder and enlarge the dip to ever be able to get to the edge of the race.

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-23-2014).]

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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 01:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I took the assembly by Firestone before y'all responded, he confirmed they just sit in there. But on the old one, there is a race with a thing rubber seal on the outer lip.
Do I removed the old race to cover the bearing?

The new rotor and bearing assembly on the left, the old on the right:


The new rotor/bearing up close:


The old rotor with I assume the race:
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wftb
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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
that is the inner seal .a new one usually comes with the bearing set .without it , your bearings will be toast in short order .
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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:08 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I remove and install them with just a flat nosed punch and hammer. To install, you can drop the outer race in the freezer for a few hours or get yourself a small block of hot ice to lay it on. It will shrink the race enough that it drops right in. You may have to tap it down a little to get it to set against it's seat inside the rotor. The seal can be installed with a large socket or a block of wood.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:15 PM Click Here to See the Profile for katatakSend a Private Message to katatakEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hard to tell by your pics but it looks like the bearing in the new rotor is flush with the hub? It should sit down inside. If it is flush, there is no room for the new seal. If so, check the inner race to be sure it is sitting against the stop inside the hub. You may need to drive it in a little further. I have seen a few "new" hubs where the inner bearing race and the outer bearing race were not seated completely.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I got the old race out, it's thin and has a rubber seal. I compared the SKF bearing set I got at Pepboy's to the Federal Mogul at Advanced, same bearing/cup setup.
All the major local part houses show the same setup for my car.

The new bearing/cup setup sit flush. There isn't any way that I can see to drive any of it down further, they each have a lip they sit on flush.

Old seal:


Old seal installed, just press fits in, the new cup next to it:

[This message has been edited by mckaymotoworks (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
From the pic it looks like you have the new one in backwards. The race goes in wide side down.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 02:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Do the bearings install face down (cone pointed in) or faced up (cone pointing out)? Faced up, the bearing is wobbly, the cup fits over flush. Faced down, the bearing fits inside the inner taper, the cup still fits flush.
But there doesn't appear a way to press fit the cup that came with the bearing kit in either case.

Faced Up:


Faced down:


Faced Up seated:


Faced down seated:

[This message has been edited by mckaymotoworks (edited 02-23-2014).]

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James Bond 007
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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Face down seated (cone pointed in), otherwise you will notice your bearing isn't rideing on anything (wrong way). As for the dust seal, its going to go in much easyer if you use a little grease,then place a small block of wood across the top and Jently tap it in.
Dont forget to grease the chassie while you have the car in the air.

[This message has been edited by James Bond 007 (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:22 PM Click Here to See the Profile for BlacktreeClick Here to visit Blacktree's HomePageClick Here to Email BlacktreeSend a Private Message to BlacktreeEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The bearing goes face down, i.e. tapered toward the inside.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The race is already in the hub, what you've pulled out is the seal. Pack the bearing, set it in and install a new seal and you'll be good to go. The bottom pic is right, just missing grease and seal.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for James Bond 007Send a Private Message to James Bond 007Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

The race is already in the hub, what you've pulled out is the seal. Pack the bearing, set it in and install a new seal and you'll be good to go. The bottom pic is right, just missing grease and seal.



Good point, I see that he has no grease yet. I prefer the high temperature grease for bearings. When finishing off the job,the bearing nut is finger tight,then back it off about 1\8th to the first cotter pin hole.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:33 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My kit, or any of the others showing at the local major parts suppliers do not show a dust seal. They just come with the metal bearing cup pictured above.
So am I missing the seal? I haven't added grease because I am test fitting to make sure I get this right. The above is me test fitting the original dust seal, which just seats in, if I press it, it's not flush. And it doesn't fit tight, I guess it's beyond it's service length, not that I would reuse them, just testing to see how it's suppose to fit.

While I waited for confirmation on the bearing installation, I started on the hose. I let the joint soak in PB Blaster overnight, took my time but both nut ends rounded off.
I guess I'll have to replace the whole line. Everything under this car looks original.

[This message has been edited by mckaymotoworks (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Report this Post02-23-2014 03:59 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You do need the grease seal, your bearing won't live long without it. They are sold separate.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 04:07 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

You do need the grease seal, your bearing won't live long without it. They are sold separate.

Ok, understood. Why doesn't any of the parts suppliers Autozone, Pepboys, Advanced, O'Reilly's show it under the Fiero wheel bearing categories?

So I am clear, I will not be using the supplied cup, set it to the side?

EDIT: I take that back, O'Reilly's does show one, I wasn't looking there as their bearings were Chinese. But this is just rubber, the original was metal with a rubber seal lip
Bearing seal


Also, would I be better off ordering the entire pre-bent stainless steel brake line kit from FS or fabricating per this thread:
Brake line & fittings sizes

By the looks underneath and at the joints, the whole system will need replacing.

[This message has been edited by mckaymotoworks (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Report this Post02-23-2014 04:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Unless you have a tubing bender and a double flare tool, your better off buying the pre-made lines.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 04:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Ok, I only have the bender. Should have known a car sitting this long would need new lines as well.

Back to the seals. The one I posted above from O'Reilly's is all rubber, not metal/rubber lip like the original. Does this just sandwich between the bearing and the supplied cup which presses against the spindle housing, held in place by the castle nut
?
So there's no press fitting involved? Because all of what I've previously show fits in to place with no pressure. Just simply sits into place nicely, resting on the internal notches of the rotor/hub assembly. Which by the way is ACDelco
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post02-23-2014 04:45 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

The race is already in the hub, what you've pulled out is the seal. Pack the bearing, set it in and install a new seal and you'll be good to go. The bottom pic is right, just missing grease and seal.



+1

I found a double flaring tool at O'Reilly's. It's meant to be a loaner, but it only costs about twenty-five bucks, so I don't intend to return it.

Autozone has all the right lines except the long one to the rear brakes. You can bend them by hand.

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Dodgerunner
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Report this Post02-23-2014 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for DodgerunnerClick Here to visit Dodgerunner's HomePageClick Here to Email DodgerunnerSend a Private Message to DodgerunnerEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There is only a grease/dirt/water seal on the back side of the hub. (large bearing) on the outside (small bearing there is no seal. The dust cap covers the castle nut and just taps into the same bore the bearing race fits in. Just be sure and tap it in using the ridge around the outside and don't hit in the middle. You will bend the cap in if you hit it anywhere but the ridge.

There are tons of videos on Youtube on packing replacing front bearings. Here is just one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BBwu2c1rLA

[This message has been edited by Dodgerunner (edited 02-23-2014).]

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Patrick
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Report this Post02-23-2014 06:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mckaymotoworks:

EDIT: I take that back, O'Reilly's does show one, I wasn't looking there as their bearings were Chinese. But this is just rubber, the original was metal with a rubber seal lip
Bearing seal


 
quote
Originally posted by mckaymotoworks:

Back to the seals. The one I posted above from O'Reilly's is all rubber, not metal/rubber lip like the original.


What has you so convinced that this seal is "all rubber". It's not.

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Report this Post02-23-2014 06:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for wftbClick Here to Email wftbSend a Private Message to wftbEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
in one of your pics you can see the shoulder that the bearing race is supposed to rest up against .if you can feel a gap between the race and the ridge , the race needs to be pushed in to the shoulder more .if you don't do this your bearing will get loose while you drive .
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Report this Post02-23-2014 07:18 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I'm surprised that someone that restores old motorcycles is having this much problem determining how wheel bearings fit into a hub. Did you not look at the one you took off?

If this is the first time you've ever replaced wheel bearings on anything, take your hub and bearing set to a garage and ask them to do it for you. Ask them to let you watch. That way you can learn how to do the other side correctly. It would be worth the money and possibly worth your life. As wftb said, if not installed properly, the bearing will get loose while you drive, possibly causing the wheel to separate from the vehicle.

For a description of your parts, they are as follows: Outer Race, Inner Race with Bearings and Cage, Grease Seal.

The larger metal rings with the inside taper are called "Outer Races". They fit into the hub and must be seated down against a shoulder inside the hub. The wider portion of the inside taper should be to the outside of the hub on it's respective side. Otherwise you can't get the bearing to fit into the race.

The inner race is a part of the bearing and bearing cage. You should take a big glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of a cupped hand and press and roll the grease in until every bearing is completely coated.

Once you have the bearings greased well, insert the bearing into the back of the hub and rub some grease on the inner sealing surface of the grease seal. The open side or lip of the seal should be toward the bearing. Install it as others have described.

Fill the inner cavity of the hub liberally with wheel bearing grease and slide the hub onto the spindle. Insert the outer bearing, install the washer and nut. Finger tighten the nut while spinning the hub. Always keep the nub spinning anytime you're tightening the nut.

Now, stop! Go get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons manual and follow the tightening and torquing procedures.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 07:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by Patrick:

What has you so convinced that this seal is "all rubber". It's not.



Ok got it figured out, a mechanic friend stopped by. The rotor/hubs have the races pre installed, so the seal posted is all that's left to install. The front has a washer with a notch for the key way that goes in front of the front bearing, then the castle nut. The extra race was throwing me off creating confusion.

Should I replace the lines or can I cut the ends, flare and add new fittings? If I can get by for now on new fittings that would be great. I do plan to replace the entire suspension, and could add new SS FS lines at that time. But I do want to make sure this is done safely and right.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 07:29 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by fierofool:

I'm surprised that someone that restores old motorcycles is having this much problem determining how wheel bearings fit into a hub. Did you not look at the one you took off?

If this is the first time you've ever replaced wheel bearings on anything, take your hub and bearing set to a garage and ask them to do it for you. Ask them to let you watch. That way you can learn how to do the other side correctly. It would be worth the money and possibly worth your life. As wftb said, if not installed properly, the bearing will get loose while you drive, possibly causing the wheel to separate from the vehicle.

For a description of your parts, they are as follows: Outer Race, Inner Race with Bearings and Cage, Grease Seal.

The larger metal rings with the inside taper are called "Outer Races". They fit into the hub and must be seated down against a shoulder inside the hub. The wider portion of the inside taper should be to the outside of the hub on it's respective side. Otherwise you can't get the bearing to fit into the race.

The inner race is a part of the bearing and bearing cage. You should take a big glob of wheel bearing grease in the palm of a cupped hand and press and roll the grease in until every bearing is completely coated.

Once you have the bearings greased well, insert the bearing into the back of the hub and rub some grease on the inner sealing surface of the grease seal. The open side or lip of the seal should be toward the bearing. Install it as others have described.

Fill the inner cavity of the hub liberally with wheel bearing grease and slide the hub onto the spindle. Insert the outer bearing, install the washer and nut. Finger tighten the nut while spinning the hub. Always keep the nub spinning anytime you're tightening the nut.

Now, stop! Go get yourself a Haynes or Chiltons manual and follow the tightening and torquing procedures.


Yes I looked at it, there was the metal seal with the rubber lip covering the inner bearing, that's all I saw upon disassembling. The outer bearing was held in place with a notched washer that fits into the keyway, that's it. I have an 84' Pontiac workshop manual, I was unable to locate this, perhaps I overlooked it. I also took it to Firestone as noted above to have them "show" me as you described, he explained it the same as my friend that stopped by. The extra race in my bearing kit threw me off.

I have the tightening torques notated in Ogre's tutorial, Calgary Fiero's and I'm sure buried within my workshop manual.


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Patrick
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Report this Post02-23-2014 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mckaymotoworks:

The extra race in my bearing kit threw me off.


It would be very unusual for a kit to have an extra anything.

You did remove both races on each rotor, right?

Because you definitely don't want to install new bearings on old races.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 08:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
This is the kit I purchased:
SKF cup/cone kit

From what I can tell, and what I am being told by those that have inspected my rotor/hub, the inner race is preinstalled.
ACDelco rotor w/hub Part#18A154

When fitting the pieces together, I see no room to install another race, even if pressed. There's internal lips where the bearing and seal fit, and stop.
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Report this Post02-23-2014 09:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickClick Here to Email PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by mckaymotoworks:

When fitting the pieces together, I see no room to install another race, even if pressed. There's internal lips where the bearing and seal fit, and stop.


You've got to punch the old bearing races out from behind.

Do not install new bearings on old races. You will destroy the new bearings.

 
quote
Originally posted by Dodgerunner:

You remove them the same way. There sould be a dip on each side of the bore (middle inside of the hub) where you can just get the edge of the race to start tapping it out. I have had some that it was so slight that I had to take a die grinder and enlarge the dip to ever be able to get to the edge of the race.



EDIT: Okay, now I'm confused. I looked over the thread again. Have you bought new bearings to use with a new rotor? And are you saying the new rotor already has a bearing race in it? But just one new race? That seems weird. If so, I suppose that you could leave that new race in there.

[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-23-2014).]

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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-23-2014 10:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Everything is new, new rotor/hub and I tapped out everything on the old one to inspect how it assembles.
So I am rather confused as to what you're referring to.

I'll take some internal photos later.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-24-2014 11:37 AM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Close up shot of the inner and outer races, which appear to preinstalled, correct me if I am wrong:

Inner:


Outer:
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tebailey
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Report this Post02-24-2014 01:12 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The races are in already, When I got mine new it came with the races pre-installed also. You can install the new bearing as is since you have new races in the hub. The bearing kits you got were for replacing the bearing and races into an old hub.

[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 02-24-2014).]

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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-24-2014 01:25 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

The races are in already, When I got mine new it came with the races pre-installed also. You can install the new bearing as is since you have new races in the hub. The bearing kits you got were for replacing the bearing and races into an old hub.



Exactly, that's where all the confusion was created.

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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-24-2014 02:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I see this particular flare tool recommended over others in the thread I referenced above :
Craftsman flare tool

I plan to add new fittings for now, replace the entire lines with the stainless steel when I replace the suspension.
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tebailey
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Report this Post02-24-2014 03:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileyClick Here to Email tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That flare tool will work, but why take a chance on trying to re-flare old brake lines? If the fittings are bad the lines are probably worse. Never take a chance on steering or brakes. Those are two things you NEVER want to fail.
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mckaymotoworks
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Report this Post02-24-2014 03:19 PM Click Here to See the Profile for mckaymotoworksClick Here to visit mckaymotoworks's HomePageSend a Private Message to mckaymotoworksEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by tebailey:

That flare tool will work, but why take a chance on trying to re-flare old brake lines? If the fittings are bad the lines are probably worse. Never take a chance on steering or brakes. Those are two things you NEVER want to fail.


If that's the case, I'll just go ahead, make them up and replace. This tool will be handy for future jobs
My Volvo 850 was a lot easier to figure out when replacing the rotors/pads/calipers/lines, even without a manual. But then again, I just went for it. Turned out great.


Can you reuse the protective coil?
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olejoedad
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Report this Post02-24-2014 03:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for olejoedadClick Here to Email olejoedadSend a Private Message to olejoedadEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
That flaring tool will NOT work.
The Fiero brake system uses the metric 'bubble' flare.
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