If you have bubble fares your right it won't work. That's a whole nother animal. I would still like to see all new lines instead of trying to patch old rusted and fatigued lines.
No it won't work for bubble flares. I would still rather see the lines replaced instead of trying to patch old rusted and fatigued lines. Sorry double post.
[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 02-24-2014).]
Tighten the front spindle nut to 12 lb.ft. while spinning the wheel assembly forward. Back off the nut to the 'just loose' position. Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen the spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut, but not more the 1/2 flat.
Tighten the front spindle nut to 12 lb.ft. while spinning the wheel assembly forward. Back off the nut to the 'just loose' position. Hand tighten the spindle nut. Loosen the spindle nut until either hole in the spindle lines up with a slot in the nut, but not more the 1/2 flat.
This is from the 86 Factory Service Manual.
Yes I have this same info from Ogre's, Calgary's etc. But thanks for making sure. I ordered the SS lines.
Good, that's the best way. Like I said never take chances with steering or brakes. This way you only have to do the job once, and you won't have to worry about the little ole lady that will pull out in front of you. You know you can stop.
Good, that's the best way. Like I said never take chances with steering or brakes. This way you only have to do the job once, and you won't have to worry about the little ole lady that will pull out in front of you. You know you can stop.
I wholeheartedly agree, was hoping to get by for a few months. The Fiero is eating into my motorcycle fund, spring is right around the corner. Time for a part time job.....
I thought so too, but the polar vortex has hit again and it's back to zero weather here. Glad I got my grandsons headlights fixed last week when we had the 30 degree heatwave.
No it won't work for bubble flares. I would still rather see the lines replaced instead of trying to patch old rusted and fatigued lines. Sorry double post.
So the kit from O'Reilly's won't work either? Can you point to one that will, especially one that can be rented. It looks like I may have to get another set of the stainless just for the one line.
After you have installed the wheel with the castellated nut installed perform the following. With weight off wheel (jacked up) and the wheel nuts (at least 3) torqued snug , grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and lever the wheel as hard as you can inward and outward. Feel or hear a click. OK , the nut is not over torqued...but (IMO) it may well be under torqued. Finger tight and backing off really won't do it. New bearing assemblies have their own thicknesses which may not accomodate the nut-washer combination (stack up) and result in proper bearing preload.
Perfect world adjustment is with an indicator registered at the hub near the bearing with inward and outward max clearance of .001" if I remember (correction please). Anyway, such a setup is difficult to implement and I have found the levering method to work well . The 12 ft lb method may be ok , but I do the following: With wheel on, center cap off, tighten the nut while. rotating the wheel by hand until drag is felt. Back off nut until wheel spins freely. Tighten nut just past finger tight and perform the lever test (above). Loose or big click? Too loose. Tighten nut to next key opening. Can't reach next slot or no click? Common problem. The nut face can be surfaced with coarse emery cloth on a flat surface (table saw will do). Patience. Use the figure 8 method. Keep reinstalling and lever testing. When the preload is reached you will "just" sense the click clearance-perfect.
I have burned bearings overtightening them , but mostly had problelms loose ones. You will know it if they are too loose. Use a thick key which will inhibit movement (ratchet) of the nut.
...grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and lever the wheel as hard as you can inward and outward. Feel or hear a click. OK , the nut is not over torqued
My concern with this method is that it's quite possible (especially for someone who's new to this) to mistaken a loose ball joint for a "not over torqued" nut holding the bearing.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 02-25-2014).]
So the kit from O'Reilly's won't work either? Can you point to one that will, especially one that can be rented. It looks like I may have to get another set of the stainless just for the one line.
Any cheap double flaring tool kit should work just fine. I have done dozens of bubble flares with mine and have yet to have a problem.
You can get coated lines at the auto parts store. They will replace everything but the main line from front to back. I just buy the pieces and bend them with my hands. They won't kink. Just talk to the parts store... the lines are a dark green color and take in an old fitting and a piece of line. They will give you the proper tube.... oh, and have an approx. length, as you can piece together shorter lines if needed. I replaced lines on my Fiero, Corsica, pickup and Aztek this way. It is a lot cheaper/easier than buying a pre-bent kit.