Looks like I had leaky head gaskets.










Here are some close-up pictures of the different cylinders:













And side shots of the two cylinders I found rust on. The rust wiped right off and I can't feel any pitting. I can feel the black gunk, though. I think it would come off with some brake cleaner and a scrub pad.





Thoughts? Can I just replace the head gaskets or is more drastic action required? The car was supposedly running fine.

quote Originally posted by dhen: Looks like I had leaky head gaskets. Thoughts? Can I just replace the head gaskets or is more drastic action required? The car was supposedly running fine.

I don't think it was running fine. Running, yes but not well.
How long dit it sit before you pulled the heads?

Before you" think" of doing anything More Drastic, check to see the "price" of the parts you "Think" you will need. (head bolts, rings, ROD bolts, gaskets etc) If you even try to "Check" the crank bearings, you will be in for main and rod bolts, they are non reusable.

quote Originally posted by jaybug56: I don't think it was running fine. Running, yes but not well. How long dit it sit before you pulled the heads?

I don't know how long it has been sitting. I'm just going off of what I was told.

Don't touch the bottom end.
Don't try to clean the piston tops.
The rust is completely fine and wont hurt anything.
Get the head flatted by a machine shop. Preferably milled instead of belt sanded.
Use ARP head studs (ZZP has them)
Use Felpro L36 vin K head gaskets or GM.
Clean clean clean the block and head surface. Don't use any type of powered wire wheel.
Use a moderate amount of copper spray on both sides of the head gasket, head and block.
Get the new aluminum intake gaskets
Clean and reuse the metal exhaust manifold gaskets.
Remove oil pan and wipe out the inside.
Flush a quart of cheap oil down the oil valley.
clean clean clean the block and oil pan with brake cleaner. Apply RTV on the oil pan.
When its back together start it up for 2 minutes. Drain oil. Put new oil in. After 20 minutes drain it and put some good oil in. I like 5w40 full syn diesel oil.


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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
10.91@133.1

[This message has been edited by Justinbart (edited 02-23-2014).]

Thanks, that's what I was I looking for. I forgot to mention that I pulled the oil pan and the oil there was normal. I was able to move the connecting rods side to side a little but not up and down. I assume this is normal.

quote Originally posted by dhen: Thanks, that's what I was I looking for. I forgot to mention that I pulled the oil pan and the oil there was normal. I was able to move the connecting rods side to side a little but not up and down. I assume this is normal.

That sounds right. Looks like a healthy engine.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
10.91@133.1

Thanks again.

If I decide to go turbo (I wasn't going to decide until later), are L36 heads/intake preferred or does it matter? I have an F-body set that got water in the engine. I also read you can put the L36 intake on the L67 heads if you plug the injector holes on the intake. Do you know if this is true?

I would have the heads checked for cracks, just to be safe. I mean, you have them off anyway... *shrug*

quote Originally posted by dhen: Thanks again. If I decide to go turbo (I wasn't going to decide until later), are L36 heads/intake preferred or does it matter? I have an F-body set that got water in the engine. I also read you can put the L36 intake on the L67 heads if you plug the injector holes on the intake. Do you know if this is true?

You can either keep the L67 heads and plug the injector holes on the n/a intake, retain the L67 fuel rail. or swap to n/a heads and use n/a everything. I don't believe the heads are any different other than injector bungs. If you do get the heads checked it is very common for them to be cracked between the valves. It's just something you have to live with.

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Turbo 3800 E85 F23 5spd spec5
10.91@133.1

So they can live with the crack? Seems kind of strange.

The 3800 and 3400 engines from around 98-05 are very well known for having problems with the plastic lower intake manifold gaskets. The plastic reinforcement breaks and then you get coolant leaking into the intake and crankcase. Replace the lower intake manifold gaskets with AC Delco number 89017825 or FEL-PRO Part # MS98014T. If you check the old plastic lower intake you will likely see the breaks between the intake and coolant ports.

So they can live with the crack? Seems kind of strange. .... NO !

cracks between the valves are fine. It's not a big deal as long as they don't leak.

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11.8@115mph 1/4 mile 1999 Regal GSX being demodded for swap into a 87 Fiero GT.
11 sec pass>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SQT4X2eBlR8

Perkins used to tell us that cracks in their heads between the valves were OK too, but to me cracks don't get better only worse.But if you have the head off and it's cracked, why put it back on?

quote Originally posted by tebailey: Perkins used to tell us that cracks in their heads between the valves were OK too, but to me cracks don't get better only worse.But if you have the head off and it's cracked, why put it back on?

good luck finding a pair that are not. Ive got a pallet of L67 heads if you are looking for spares.