I have been restoring an 85 V6 GT for the past two years. When I purchased it, it had been sitting for an undetermined amount of time (possibly 20 years). In the process of replacing the water pump, I found that there is a layer of rusty sludge on the insides of the coolant hoses, the thermostat housing, and the old water pump. What is the best method to flush this stuff out of the coolant system, and what chemicals should I use? Thank you for your suggestions, Steve
A method I use at the shop is to disconnect the upper and lower coolant lines and connect one end to an electric pump and the other to dump into a 5 gallon bucket filled with hot water and coolant flush from the autoparts store. the electric pump will circulate the gallons of cleaner through the system and you'll be able to see how quickly the water will remove the debris. This usually is much quicker when only doing a radiator but the same concept when dealing with a complete system.
Last month my waterpump in my 87 s10 2.5 went out, went and got a new pump and installed it. My cooling system was really clean and antifreeze was really green. Last week i checked the system and its full of rust now. Seems the New waterpump started rusting immediately after installing. Pulled it out and took it back, parts house hasnt ever seen a pump rust like this before.
Drain, fill, drain, fill is what worked for us (so far). Still have the factory water pump on in our case! Seems to be holding up after the 1000 miles we put on it. Peep that thread above, IIRC there are some pics that might show the sludge your talking about.
Great score on the revive. Welcome to PFF and the madness! Please post some pics of your car. Also keep up posted. Were all dying to see this car on the road I am sure!
There are four vehicles that I have wanted to own (ones within my reach) since I was a kid; 280Z, Land Cruizer, Costa Rican Carreta, and a Fiero GT. I am thrilled to have found this 1985 GT.
The previous owners drove the car seven years until the clutch failed, and then parked it. It sat in his wherehouse from 1992 (when it was last registered) until 2007. They got divorsed and she got the car. It then sat in her garage for four years. She didn't know what to do with it, so she put it up for sale on Craigslist. My son and I have been steadily working on it for the past three years.
Last week we got it to the point where we could drive it. It would only shift into second gear, and after it reached operating temperature it dropped a huge puddle of coolant. Even though its driveability was limited, it was amazing to drive! I love the car. It has a few more minor problems to work out, but it is almost restored. This picture was taken the day I purchased it and pushed it into my garage.
Personally for myself at the time we did our "resurrection" I did not feel a complete coolant flush was needed. We drained and filled it a couple of times and there didn't seem to be any clogs in the cooling system. Our heater core was toasted though so by default we put fresh coolant in a couple of times. Matter of fact we still have the factory water pump installed. All seems well after over 1000 miles of driving. As long as the coolants flowing freely I didn't like the idea of blasting the coolant system. I am no Mr. Goodwrench though. Just what worked for me.
How does your heater core look? You might not be able to tell but it could leak and you would never notice.
Also, very important, Do a critter camp search. Check the HVAC ducts up front. Check the heater resistor for debris. Fiefel the mouse likes to pile dry, flammable leaves and stuff on that resistor and it gets red hot. Also the blower will force anything down onto that resistor.
Cngrats, sounds like a great father/son project! I caught the bug last March when I bought an 85 2M4 that had sat around for at leas 7 years. I second the blower cleanout advice, mine had a lot of leaves in it. I have the 2.5 running well now and am amazed at how spunky the 4 cylinder is. Last month I talked my wife into letting me get an 85 GT that has been parked for 2 years ina garage with a bad fuel pump. I have it back on the road now too. Have fun!
Thanks for the heads up on the heater core and the HVAC system. I will check them out. I don't expect to find any problems from mice though. The woman had about ten cats that had free reign of the engine compartment. I had to clean out cat food, hair, and urin from the cats marking their territory. After hosing out the engine compartment multiple times, I sprayed it heavely with an oder neutralizer that I found at the auto parts store. It worked well.
Even good Coolant will separate over time, leaving water at top. 20 years... expect problem. WP is bad now but carefully check Heater core, Radiator, etc. Any/all could be bad or soon.
Originally posted by dematrix86gt: Last month my waterpump in my 87 s10 2.5 went out, went and got a new pump and installed it. My cooling system was really clean and antifreeze was really green. Last week i checked the system and its full of rust now. Seems the New waterpump started rusting immediately after installing. Pulled it out and took it back, parts house hasnt ever seen a pump rust like this before.
likely weak coolant mix cause this. See fill link above. Could be fixing WP you missed ground(s). Missing grounds can wreck the coolant system. Missing grounds then the coolant will become a ground and is often very bad new. google: coolant electrolysis If true then need to flush coolant and install new coolant. electrolysis is death to coolant. Has little/no rust protection left after being a ground.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
When flushing I usually open two ends of the system and put a garden hose on one end. Let it run for a long time until it runs clean. When you refill, make sure to use distilled water if you mix it yourself. Or the "50/50 premix" which is already distilled.
Originally posted by 2.5: When flushing I usually open two ends of the system and put a garden hose on one end. Let it run for a long time until it runs clean. When you refill, make sure to use distilled water if you mix it yourself. Or the "50/50 premix" which is already distilled.
distilled or deionized water is good. Premix? No. 50/50 Premix will guaranty you get weak mix in the system because you cannot get water out of system after flushing. Engine, Radiator and heater has allot of water trapped. 1/2 gallon or more of water trapped is easy after flushing even when you open drains on the pipes and radiator. Worse you pay more for buying Premix coolant to fill whole system and end up with a weak mix in the system. Read fill link above.
distilled or deionized water is good. Premix? No. 50/50 Premix will guaranty you get weak mix in the system because you cannot get water out of system after flushing. Engine, Radiator and heater has allot of water trapped. 1/2 gallon or more of water trapped is easy after flushing even when you open drains on the pipes and radiator. Worse you pay more for buying Premix coolant to fill whole system and end up with a weak mix in the system. Read fill link above.
I agree on the premix, my point was just that it is distilled water in the mix. It would be nice if they offered a 60/40 or 70/30 premix. But it still would cost more like you said. You can also check the mix with one of these: http://www.summitracing.com...TI-70211?seid=srese2
[This message has been edited by 2.5 (edited 02-18-2014).]
Originally posted by 2.5: I agree on the premix, my point was just that it is distilled water in the mix. It would be nice if they offered a 60/40 or 70/30 premix. But it still would cost more like you said. You can also check the mix with one of these...
Checked coolant is good. Some have extra "pointer" to keep tester level. Level pointer is make them more accurate. Note that many are accurate ~80°F. Testing when cold or hot does cause accuracy errors. Most testers label for Ethylene Glycol... Don't use then on Low Toxic Propylene Glycol, like Sierra, because of different density.
Better tool is refractometer. Many covers EG PG coolants, battery fluid, and washer fluid. Google: antifreeze tester
EG/PG doesn't go bad but rust and lube additives does. If use Standard Green coolant... Additives last ~3 years but "bad" coolant still pass test for freeze/boil protection.
I have another problem with the cooling system. I am trying to plug all coolant leaks before I flush the system, but there is one that I can't figure out. There is an insulated coolant hose that is leaking. It connects up between the engine and the cab. It runs under the battery shelf and then dissapears as it heads toward the back of the car on the passenger side. I cannot figure out where it goes, or how to get to it as it seems to travel in a protected space soomwhere under the wheel well. Any ideas on this one?
