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Clutch Master/Slave by Tom Piantanida
Started on: 02-05-2014 06:14 PM
Replies: 4 (257 views)
Last post by: gtoformula on 02-06-2014 09:46 PM
Tom Piantanida
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From: Palo Alto, CA, USA
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Report this Post02-05-2014 06:14 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom PiantanidaSend a Private Message to Tom PiantanidaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I know this topic has been discussed many times, but I still need advice. I need to know whether I need to replace the slave cylinder. Here's the story. The first symptom was that the clutch pedal only disengaged the clutch when depressed nearly all the way to the floor, and then a day later it would not disengage at all. The master cylinder showed signs of leaking out the back, so I replaced it. Now I can't get all the air out of the system. I've bled the system for hours and even unfastened the slave cylinder so that I could push the actuating rod all the way in to remove any residual air. I have gone through a quart of brake fluid, but I'm still getting lots of air out the slave cylinder bleeder every time I bleed it. My question is: has the slave cylinder failed and is drawing in air on every return stroke? How can I tell? Thanks.
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Csjag
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Report this Post02-05-2014 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for CsjagSend a Private Message to CsjagEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You may be drawing air in past the threads on the bleeder valve, have you put thread tape on it?
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Tom Piantanida
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Report this Post02-05-2014 07:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Tom PiantanidaSend a Private Message to Tom PiantanidaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Nevermind. I figured out a way to bleed the slave cylinder. I attached a three-foot length of clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder, and then added a small reservoir ( a funnel) at the top of the tubing. I opened the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and then - using a wonderbar pry bar - repeatedly pushed the pushrod into the slave cylinder. With each stroke of the pushrod, air came out of the slave cylinder and ran up the tube, allowing brake fluid to be drawn into the slave cylinder. It took quite a few strokes of the pushrod to get all of the air out, but eventually it all did. I closed the bleeder valve, cleaned up the mess, and delighted in the full clutch pedal.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post02-06-2014 05:02 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
you posted while I was writing,when the slave grows weak or fails get the 2 seal piston
90 % of fiero clutch problems have to do with the slave piston being single seal
order RodneyDickmans double seal piston,it is easy to bleed the Fiero slave cylinder
when you have the 2 seal piston,,its magic from magician Dickman,Rodney
if the you have the dual seal piston then you need a different slave body,,even a pitted slave will work
with a dual seal piston,
use vise grips to force the piston back into the slave with the pushrod..
V8 archie site has the best bleed method for single seal piston slave cylinder
to order 2 seal piston,just google "rodney dickman fiero"
he does advertise on this site

[This message has been edited by uhlanstan (edited 02-06-2014).]

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gtoformula
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Report this Post02-06-2014 09:46 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I am in full agreement with the previous post. I had fits bleeding my clutch system after replacing the master. I came across another thread recommending Rodney's dual piston kit. Put it in, bled the system and the clutch function is way better than it has ever been. I think that the single seal gets worn over time and has internal bleed issues. Thee dual seal doesn't have any internal bleed and allows all the fluid to work 100% on the piston. Love it. If I had a second Fiero I'd replace that one too.
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