I have wanted to post this for some time now but for whatever the reason I just never got around to it. Quiet sometime ago I upgraded the headlight motors on my ’86 GT to Style II headlight motors but have never been able to get them to function properly. I have gone thru several headlight control modules, none of which have been 100% functional. Needless to say I was growing tired with having the headlight motors not functioning properly. So, until such time I locate a used headlight motor control module I decided to come up with a semi-permanent solution. In my quest to design something I decided to go old school. i.e. the same type of control circuit that is used in the 1965 Corvette. Oh, by the way, my ’86 GT shares the stable with my other ride, a ’65 Corvette Stingray.

To make the project happen I acquired the following items:
2 – 87-88 Headlight Motor Connector (Male 2-wire leads) – The Fiero Store
1 – Mom-On-Off- Mom-On 30A DPDT Toggle Switch – Radio Shack
1 – 20A Circuit breaker - AutoZone

The power is pulled from the Batt (Battery) Always hot power block that I have installed in the car. This was easy since I have relocated the battery to the front of the vehicle. Power is then fed to the headlight motor circuit via a 20A Circuit breaker.



I installed the control switch, a DPDT 30A Mom-On – Off – Mom-On switch in the position that was originally intended for the “Rear Window Defrost”. My ’86 GT is not equipped with “Read Window Defrost” making the switch installation a breeze.





I ran the feed wires for both headlight control motors and installed newly purchased “The Fiero Store” 87-88 Headlight Motor connectors. In the photo you will see that I left the OEM connector (Gray) intact. This is for future use in the event I locate a functional Headlight Motor Control Module.




The schematic for the project:




This was my solution to not having functional headlight motors. It maynot be feasible for your particular application but worked for me.

Sorry guys about the double post. My computer hung up and for ever the reason did a second post.

Module(s) maybe ok but your motor(s), HL switch, or wiring have problems. A binding door and/or bucket too.
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

Sorry but W/o the module, you will likely break motor's bottom end. Strip output shaft, strip gears, shattered dowels.
Module is much better and faster to read motor load and shutdown anywhere in opening or closing if door or bucket get stuck.

Please add thumb to img tag. Click PFF Code is ON on post/edit page.

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Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

[This message has been edited by theogre (edited 01-30-2014).]

Believe me the modules were inoperative. Not 100% but enough to render not operational. I have the proper test equipment to test the modules. In fact, the modules were tested on a bench set-up prior to being installed in the vehicle.

The trick to not stripping the motor gears is to stop the movement of the headlight doors when you think they have bottomed. This method works for me but may not be your cup of tea.

This post might help. Read my post about 7/8th down.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...130314-2-113825.html

I'm surprised that no on questioned the two relay blocks that I have installed in the front truck area!

How did you figure 20A breaker?

An educated guess, more or less.

I.e. Most of the circuits that contain any type of motor is more times than not protected by a 20A fuse. I bench tested my headlight door motors and they pulled between 5 and 7 amps. Keep in mind the doors were not attached during the bench test. Further, fusible link of wire size .35mm has a rating of about 10 amps.

I initially used a 15A breaker but it would trip every so often. I then installed a 20A and have not had any issues since.

"between 5 and 7 amps." total or each motor?

Total maybe ok or not.
Each then System/Motors still may have problems... Module cutting out is saying I see problems and shut down power to motor(s) to save the system.

Gen2 system is better but small things can get module to shut off power. I've seen motor going very tight when doors close and Module refuse to open after until you turn the knob 1 turn to release tension. Motors needed clean and lube. Other examples: miss-adjusted screw on bottom of motor, binding door and/or bucket parts.

A Motor sees high current at stall etc and tripping 15A breaker is not good for the long run. A breaker rated at 15A will trip at ~18A or more.

For comparison:
Contacts for Relay inside module is 1.5 A @ 24vdc for Inductive(motor) load, 3A max.
Google: omron my4-02 12vdc
Note some pages use update datasheet and change to 30vdc etc.

If you don't want them, I'm looking for iffy/dead modules and motors for the Gen2 cave article. Donations are welcome.

quote Originally posted by Cajun: I'm surprised that no on questioned the two relay blocks that I have installed in the front truck area!

I will bite. What are they for?

I'm interested in your climate control! Got any links for that?