I did a tune up, and there are no fuel issues, so it must be a sensor or something. I have a 1990 HO quad 4 in my car, and I need to know software and hardware wise what is required to connect to the cars computer and find out what is happening.
At about 3000 rpm's it seems like it is missing really badly. I have also replaced everything in the ignition system. Fuel pressure is good. I also replaced the crank sensor.
Did the problem start before, or after the tune up? If after of course you need to go over everything you did and possibly need to swap old parts back in place one part or group at a time.
If it was pre existing, is this a manual or automatic car? That code if I'm not mistaken has a rev limit linked to the park neutral switch which activates at about 3000 rpm. If a wire is loose or the switch has failed that maybe what the problem is. If the car had the problem when you purchased it the chip may have the wrong rpm limit set in it. Tunerpro which many DIY programmers use has a glitch that actually has the opposite effect when you raise the rpm limit in the code.
You may need to search out the signal wire to make sure it is connected properly to the P/N switch.
Does the motor have a timing belt or chain and have you checked the fuel pressure yet? A weak and failing fuel pump can get you going and start to fall short on fuel supply as demand increases. If you do not have a fuel pressure tester a quick way to test for a fuel problem is if the engine breaks up also as you raise the rpm while in neutral. If so you can try to spray a little starter fluid into the throttle body at the break up point and note the effect. If it is starving of fuel the problem will clear immediately momentarily. Get help doing this as starter fluid acts like nitro some times so you only want to spray a quick burst.
Does your check engine/SES light work? Is it on or come on when it breaks up? If so search for pulling codes on ALDL connector. Did the engine start to sound like marbles rolling inside the bottom of a bucket? You chain tensioner could be going causing your timing chain to get sloppy. Quad 4s are good for that. Breaking down on hIgher RPMs. Do you keep an extra ignition module around? And since this started all the sudden and this is a swap, start checking for loose connections.
[This message has been edited by cmechmann (edited 01-30-2014).]
A bad MAP sensor will do this. I had one nearly cause me to give up on my 3900 swap because it never set a code. I just happened to notice in the datalog that the signal from the MAP sensor was fixed and constant. If it sets at a part throttle value you will not likely notice a problem until the engine load exceeds that point where it will then start to lean out the engine, for example, engine load fixed at 40% and throttle input is calling for 60%. The engine will fall over everytime as soon as that point is exceeded.
Data link is the only thing left although you should still check into the wiring for the two stage rev limit as well. Check with autozone, they may have a scanner that will allow you to link up with OBD1. Mine does although I use TunerproRT instead. Tunerpro does at least the 1990 Quad, and Moates.net can supply you with the data link cable for I believe about $50. I have Tunercat also but Tunerpro in my opinion is far better as it allows you to see where you are on a particular table while the motor is running plus emulate among other things.
You'll need to record the sensors at the trouble spot and go back and look at what they are doing in the log.
I had a 96 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam in it and the coil tower gave me fits. kept buying the master pro brand and at WOT my coils would arc thru them. Finally gave up and went to Chev dealer and got a Original tower and that cleared my problem. with the way the top plate covers everything kinda hard to look at things without a bore scope. it can get up in there so you can see.
I have Tunerpro, and the Moates cable, and I just ordered $a8 from the tunerpro folks. I am travelling for work for the next days, but Wednesday I should be able to pull the sensors and get some more information.
I had a 96 z24 with the 2.4 twin cam in it and the coil tower gave me fits. kept buying the master pro brand and at WOT my coils would arc thru them. Finally gave up and went to Chev dealer and got a Original tower and that cleared my problem. with the way the top plate covers everything kinda hard to look at things without a bore scope. it can get up in there so you can see.
All coil packs are not created equal, not even OE from overseas so be careful when bidding on what looks like a great price on OE old stock from ebay. I purchased a set that broke up on the dyno having been installed the day before. On examination I found little cracks in the bottom of the casing on all 3. Some parts are dealer only must, or good used OE and this is one of them.
