I had been thinking about sending my steering wheel to Dallas Steering Wheels to get it re-covered since the original cover is leaking the redish-brown goo. Then I saw a thread here where a member made a replacement cover by using the old cover as a pattern and cutting new leather from an leather apron.
I was looking at my steering wheel today and it dawned on me that there really isn't anything wrong with my original leather cover. Only the top section is deformed a little bit from the padding shifting and breaking down. Plus the goo oozing out.
I got to thinking about just trying to carefully cut the thread holding the cover on, remove it, clean it up, put new padding on, replace the cover and sew it back up with the original holes and everything. Has anyone else gone this route? Is the original leather likely to fall apart or anything?
Thanks for your thoughts and experiences, Jonathan
I don't have any experience recovering them, but my steering wheel is in a similar predicament. How much does that company charge to recover them? Also, I'd certainly follow a thread where you tried it out!
I don't think you necessarily have to worry much about the actual material of the steering wheel being in a deteriorated condition upon disassembling the upholstery from the wheel, as it seems to fade and discolor more so than any physical damage, but more of how effectively would you be able to actually repair the material with all the wheel glue that has resided behind the material for 25+ years now. The good thing about starting with new material is you obviously don't have to worry about that factor. But even if you could properly separate the upholstery from the wheel relatively intact I wonder how well you could clean it up and ready it for any sort of reassembly job.
Maybe I'm thinking too much into it.
I do know I simply (heh...) got a good conditioned GT wheel when I swapped mine out. I had goo coming out and the upholstery 'turned' at the top portion where hands would grip. And managed to get a salvage wheel from a low mileage GT that did not have any issues. Now the issue that is occurring is that even if you do find a lower mileage good conditioned wheel, if it wasn't stored properly it can still be goo'ey.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Dallas Steering Wheels quoted me $290 shipped with a 4-5 business day turn-around. For the work and speed, it's not a bad deal. Their leather work is absolutely beautiful.
Getting the goo off is my major concern. Not really sure what that gunk even is so I definately don't know how to remove it. I guess I'll follow the rule of thumb that oily takes off sticky and soapy takes off oily.
I have spare steering wheels so there's really no reason for me to not try it. The worst I can do is fail for free and I would still be able to send it off for a professional job. I really don't have anything to lose but time and effort. Since I'm not planning to enter any concours shows anytime soon, I might as well try it.
Not sure when I'll start but I'll just post all my findings here. No need to start a new thread.
Thanks for all the replies so far. Dallas Steering Wheels quoted me $290 shipped with a 4-5 business day turn-around. For the work and speed, it's not a bad deal. Their leather work is absolutely beautiful.
You definately get what you pay for. I've seen their wheels in person and they're extremely nice.
I forgot who it was, but someone on here had theirs recovered with an additional 1/4-inch of padding under the wheel. It made the wheel look thicker than stock and it really looked outstanding!
if you are looking for the correct thread you need conso 3ply 2oz thick thread a spool runs about $10. You will need to remember that the leather will have no streching ability once you get it off. The foam behind the wheel is closed cell foam if you go that route. The easiest way to get the "goo" off is to soak it in acetone and use a lot of rags and it will come clean.
if you are looking for the correct thread you need conso 3ply 2oz thick thread a spool runs about $10. You will need to remember that the leather will have no streching ability once you get it off. The foam behind the wheel is closed cell foam if you go that route. The easiest way to get the "goo" off is to soak it in acetone and use a lot of rags and it will come clean.
AWESOME bundle of information there!! Thanks so much! Plus for you (and as always, everyone who participated in my tech thread)
you can refurbish your wheel using new thread or lacing many wheels have damage just at the top you can splice in a newpiece of the same color,OR get some leather of a different color..it is easier to just lay the new leather over the Damage area sew it on directly over the damage area ,, you can actually do this with out removng the steering wheel.but if you have never hand sewn before remove the wheel I use a sewing thimble & piece of thick leather to push the needle thru the thin leather ,you can draw the seam very tight with out splitting the hole your needle made . I normally use red leather to ""patch "" the top portion of a steering wheel it is easy to hand sew a new cover on just the outer ring,,it is more complicated to make up a new cover if you include the wheel brace portion!!you have to leave excess & then cut to fit when you arrive at the brace I have a leather punch ,but I prefer the tight leather thread look ,,I use carpet/button thread ,much thicker than regular thread . the job is very much easier if you use a leather punch,,using the punch, your holes will be better spaced,, unless you are just an extremely neat meticulous male ,it is difficult to get the needle holes aligned once you do the steering wheel,, the shift boot is not so difficult in the leather color of your choice .. for the thicker look ,just cover right over the old steering wheel cover
leather makes a great dash cover,to cover up a cracked dash,just a matter of remove speaker , then carefull sissor work,then glue it down use a window sun shade..
