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Headlight motors/lights wont come on by 4thfiero
Started on: 01-08-2014 12:53 AM
Replies: 5 (99 views)
Last post by: uhlanstan on 01-09-2014 03:21 PM
4thfiero
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Report this Post01-08-2014 12:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
1: New questions for my fellow Fiero lovers, I have an 88 gt with 86 front wireing and head light motors. I would like to make those motors new again...is there an aftermarket motor that is superior to the Fiero motors that i can install with mo fab? Can i use an 88 motors with 86 front wiring? Whats out there?

2: While rebuilding my steering rack...i must have knocked a wire or something...my headlights pop up...but i get no LIGHT....all my other lights work, just not my headlight headlights...what should i be looking for???

Thank you guys as always
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Gall757
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Report this Post01-08-2014 09:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
There are multiple contacts in the headlight switch on the inst. panel. They tend to bend open over time, so it's an easy fix just to open the switch and bend some tabs. Try the easy stuff first.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post01-08-2014 12:04 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
the headlite motors have more than enough power, they will take your hand off!
you may have to clean the connections or replace the carbon brush..power is not
a problem with the fiero motors .

The headlite switch needs to have the male & female connectors cleaned ,just clue the appropiate
size piece of light grit sand paper to a piece of thin flat plastic,, thin wood or stiff paper,now you
can insert your hand made file into the female connector & clean the corrosion off the
copper ..I some times just fold a piece of sandpaper over & glue the backs together ....this is also a good idea to use on the all the headlite electrical connectors of
any old cars.. use it on the trunk popper also
ajust any loose female connector ,often some connector may not be tight,you can break off
a small piece of ball point pen spring or just stuff a small piece of rubber eraser under it,,
a dap of glue will secure it..or dap of JB weld

A product called flexstone use to popular to perform the contact points & electrical connectors
clean up ,but it is more difficult to find today

GOD,GUNs ,GUTs & FIERO,S made America great
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post01-08-2014 12:36 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Check fuse box first
the yellow & a white wire comming out of the colunm,these wires run to the isolation relay all years,you should check these first,,
then check all wires running from the steering wheel colunm area up to the isolation relay on the front next to driver headlite.you probably hit the wire loom with something
find this as soon as possible any damage to the isolation relay may
cause the replacement of this expensive part
check fuse box FIRST
the red wires are hot
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4thfiero
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Report this Post01-09-2014 12:54 AM Click Here to See the Profile for 4thfieroClick Here to Email 4thfieroSend a Private Message to 4thfieroEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So i will admit im a little overwhelmed by the responses...i will check everything as close as i can...which wire or relay is responsable for TELLING the headlights to LIGHT UP....im just so suprised that both headlights pop up...but no light.
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uhlanstan
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Report this Post01-09-2014 03:21 PM Click Here to See the Profile for uhlanstanClick Here to Email uhlanstanSend a Private Message to uhlanstanEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
normally it is the opposite problem
the old style isolation relay is difficult to locate
check the wires I mention
if you have a haynes manual you can locate these wires in the wiring schematic/diagram.
if you study the wire diagram ,it will help trouble shoot,I understand if you have not look
at one before it does look like chinese spaghetti,just run your finger along the lines .
locate the lite switch ,,then the isolation relay
fortunately the juice wires are easy to locate at the switch
after you check the fuze box,(which drops down),
make sure thier is juice at the light switch first .
this is where a test lite work best & quickest,but an multi meter does the job
always probe at the base on the metal ,or the connector metal fitting,you can go in from the back of connector
only probe /pierce wire sheath if you must
if you have juice at the switch,check to see if you have juice at the isolation relay ,if not thier is a break
you would have to hit the wiring with great force to break it,a strong probability you distrurbed a corroded or loose connection.
I hope I did not confuse you,one of the 2 color wire I mention open the lite circuit
'take it step by step
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