I just put new plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, coil and ingnition module in the 4.9. The ignition module I installed last week and the rest of it today. After installing new plugs and wires is when the problem started that it wouldn't start. The coil cover on the 4.9 is clearly marked as to what wire goes to what cyclinder. I have double and triple checked that. I'm using NGK iridium ix plugs gapped to 0.060, Autolite 8mm wires. I've done tons of tune ups on my cars but this one has me baffled.
Anybody run into a problem like this or have any solutions?
Are you sure you don't have the even and odd banks reversed? Just a thought. Can you smell gas? If not, you might be chasing an ignition problem, and it's really a fueling problem. Coincidences happen. Did you verify the connections at the distributor where 12v, tach, and etc connect?
Depending on how the distributor was installed, the numbers on the cap may or may not be correct.
Take out the #6 plug (it's easier than the #1) and stick your assistant's finger into the spark plug hole. The take a wrench on the balancer bolt rotate the engine clockwise. When your assistant starts making noises and the piston is coming up on compression continue turning until the timing marks align. Stop and look at where the rotor is pointed. THAT will be your #6 spark plug tower. Follow around with the rest of the plug wires using the firing order. Note that the 4.9 distributor turns counterclockwise.
When checking for fuel pressure are you doing it right after the fuel pump primes?
I found out that it was the fuel pump that failed. In diagnosing the problem a bad connection in the wiring harness was also discovered. Between the bad connection and flooded relay, I think that's what was killing the fuel pumps in this car. After replacing the fuel pump and getting it running again it had a bad miss on #1 cylinder. Turned out to be a bad injector, replaced that it it runs like a scalded cat again. The only problem left is the starter dragging to the point that it won't start after it warms up. Took the starter off yesterday and dropped it off to be rebuilt today. Whew.
Glad you took care of your problem. I have been chasing a miss which I can't narrow down to any one or two cylinders on my 4.9. Watching timing light all appear to have consistent spark and listening to injectors with long screwdriver pressed to injector and ear they all sound like they are working. I was wondering how you narrowed down your bad injector or missfire to #1 cylider?
How did you determine if it was spark or injector?
I checked the resistance of all the injectors, most of them were 17 ohms, the bad one was 1.5 ohms. I had 2 different mechanics tell me that the starter was most likely going bad. The problem started before the tune up and as far as I know, the starter has never been replaced.
The same thing happened to my starter. I've heard of several people with the same symptom. Heat seems to deteriorate them badly. If you don't mind the sticker shock, replace it with the gear reduction starter from an Allante. It seems to be a much better starter. My starter was ordered for a '91, but they all should be the same. Especially 89 thru 92. (4.5 engine.)
I'm happy that you found a fix for your other issues.
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 Praise the Lowered!
I'll keep that Allante starter in mind, thanks. I looked on Rock Auto and they have remans for $100. That's not too bad.
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Originally posted by Raydar:
The same thing happened to my starter. I've heard of several people with the same symptom. Heat seems to deteriorate them badly. If you don't mind the sticker shock, replace it with the gear reduction starter from an Allante. It seems to be a much better starter. My starter was ordered for a '91, but they all should be the same. Especially 89 thru 92. (4.5 engine.)
I'm happy that you found a fix for your other issues.
I'll keep that Allante starter in mind, thanks. I looked on Rock Auto and they have remans for $100. That's not too bad.
The other advantage is that if you are using a manual tranny, you don't have to remove a wedge shaped section of the bellhousing to clear the starter snout.
