This '88 GT barn fiend has a BIG punch list already posted and generating help. But today - after flushing/bleeding the brakes - I discovered a problem with the fuel gauge or sender.

When driving, alternator voltage is just past 13, so it's not a voltage issue. The needle on the fuel gauge is pegged past FULL.

Common problem? I'll be grateful for some guidance.

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I hope your Christmas is a pleasure, and that your 2014 is peaceful, prosperous, peaceful, healthy, peaceful, safe.... and peaceful

[This message has been edited by notaguru (edited 12-25-2013).]

Open circuit I suspect. Maybe a broken wire or no contact...varnish on the windings...the gauge goes high with increased resistance.

Welcome to the forum! Use the search function and you'll find all sorts of info on that. Also check out "the cave" ( link at top of page) if its been sitting for years without running then you'll probably want to spend an afternoon and drop the tank to clean it out and you can check and recalabrate/replace the sender and pump.

Excellent.
I'll put the tank/sender/pump situation on the punch list.

I've ordered a Haynes and a Chilton on eBay (cheap!), but would like to find access to a service manual. Someone mentioned that there is one online... but where?
THANKS

The Service Manuals are no longer available for download for free on line. They do show up on E-bay now and then.
As far as Chilton goes....you get what you pay for. I hear Haynes is a little better.

HAYNES and CHILTON are on the way. Also, I found a workshop manual for '84-'87.

Other than suspension, are there significant differences in the '88? I'm particularly concerned about electrical and ignition changes in this car...

In the engine compartment there are two pass-thrus. In the engine compartment on the one on the passengers side look for a tail that extends to 6" from the pass-through. This is the wiring to the fuel tank. The connector on the end of the tail will have three wires

Tan/White - Fuel Pump Power
Pink - Fuel level sender
Black - Ground

Unplug the connector. Turn the key to on. On the tail that came through the firewall ground the pink (center) wire. The gauge should swing to empty. If so everything from that point up to the gauge is working. If not then you have to look towards the tank.

If not look for the trouble to be in the tank.

As a second test - on the tail that runs to the tank - You should measure 0 (Empty) to 90 ohms (Full) between the Pink (sometimes Purple) middle wire and the Black ground wire. Don't confuse 0 ohms (direct short) with infinite ohms (an open).

If the trouble shows to be in the sending unit, I would recommend replacing it rather than trying to service it, well unless you are a real cheapskate. It is a total pain draining and dropping the tank if your repair doesn't take. Also make sure the gauge sender IS WORKING before putting it in the tank and putting the tank back on the car.

Repairing the sending unit - https://docs.google.com/doc...lVCX3cTY6urYdmU/edit

Replacing the unit for $30 - https://www.fiero.nl/forum/A...090219-2-078597.html

quote Originally posted by notaguru: HAYNES and CHILTON are on the way. Also, I found a workshop manual for '84-'87. Other than suspension, are there significant differences in the '88? I'm particularly concerned about electrical and ignition changes in this car...

88 Ignition (2.8 V6) is the same as all the other years of the 2.8

The 88 2.8 alternator is different than the 85-87

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-27-2013).]

It's posts like yours that help make the internet in general, and forums, priceless.

Today the mail delivered a TPS, rotor, cap, and Chilton Manual.

Getting there!

PS - the forum won't let me rate you until I'm here 30 days, and at my age that's 50-50, so you at least have my THANKS!.

[This message has been edited by notaguru (edited 12-27-2013).]