Hi all,

I'm getting started on prepping my engine. This is a very long term project.

Anyways, I was wondering if anyone has any advice about what I should do now that the engine is on the stand. I'd rather not open it up if I don't have to, since I'm afraid of breaking something, but if there is sometime that is prone to failure, please let me know. I've heard that the intake gaskets are a good idea to replace.

The engine is pretty grimy. Are any of the sensors easy to break? Ed Morad said not to clean the MAF.

I have a bad L36 engine that I bought for parts. Which parts interchange?

Anyway, I was looking at the engine and there were a few sensors I couldn't figure out.



I guess green circled one is the EGR, but what are green and blue? Any benefit to keeping the EGR? Are the other two necessary?

I get that this next sensor has to do with manifold pressure, but what is it?



I really appreciate the input. I've worked with fuel injection before, but these engines are new to me.

yellow is your canister purge solenoid, green in your egr valve, blue is the map sensor.
I *thknk* the white is your bypass valve control for the supercharger, dunno for sure tho.

Canister purge solenoid is for the charcoal canister, right? Do I need to use it?

Thanks

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-Brian

My 87 GT Poly Suspension Upgrade (all pics) thread
Removing the roof panel
My HUD install thread
Modified stock air canister and base to 3.5 inch for 3800na

Isn't it strange that after a bombing, everyone blames the bomber, his upbringing, his environment, his culture, his mental state but … after a shooting, the problem is the gun?

[This message has been edited by MulletproofMonk (edited 12-16-2013).]

EGR - It is not used at idle or at WOT. You will get better mileage with it retained. If in CA you must keep it. Your intake manifold won't be polluted with exhaust gases and will stay cleaner with it deleted

BBV - Boost bypass valve. When open the supercharger is bypassed. The PCM will control the solenoid and turn it on and off as the PCM needs it. You will get better mileage with it retained. Some say you will get better acceleration with it deleted. Others disagree. If you delete it you want to block the valve shut, not open. The lever needs to be either all the way forward horizontal or rear horizontal for it to be shut.

MAP - To clean up the top of the engine you can move the MAP sensor to the top of the transmission. It MUST be connected to the Lower Intake Manifold (LIM) vacuum/boost port located under the supercharger snout. Then the MAP sensor electrical connector needs to be also move to the transmission.

Evap Purge Solenoid. - I recommend on keeping it. Move it to the top of the transmission also. A vacuum line needs to run from one of the vacuum ports between the SC and throttle body. (not LIM) The other vacuum connection of the solenoid then runs to the PURGE port of your stock Fiero charcoal canister. Of course it also needs it's electrical connection.

Lower Intake Manfiold Boost/Vacuum - Needs to be connected to the MAP, the Fuel Pressure Regulator and the solenoid of the Boost Bypass Valve if used.

SC to Throttle Body Vacuum (vacuum only, no boost) is used on the top of the BBV, the evap purge solenoid (if used) and the Power Brake Booster (vacuum line in the middle of the firewall running through the center console to the brake booster up front.

[This message has been edited by phonedawgz (edited 12-16-2013).]

Thanks, for the explanation. It seems like there is a good case to keep all of these sensors, assuming they'll all working right now.

I would get rid of the EVAP unless you want to add in a fuel tank pressure sensor to make the system work properly. The EVAP system is more of a car related item then the engine as it involves the fuel tank. The Fiero charcoal canister will work just fine with its vent line to the tank and a supplied vacuum line from the engine and also looks a lot nicer and fits properly. Dan

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DARN Cars now open with
Over 30 years wiring experience between cars and trade as an avionics technician in both Canadian Air Force and civilian aviation.
Over 25 years experience building and modifying cars.
Over 10 years of full Fiero engine swaps and harnesses building and still going.

I'll keep that in mind. Right now I'm cleaning up the engine before I design motor mounts. Wiring comes later, but I wanted to ask while it was fresh in my mind.

By the way, I love your car. What size wheels do you have and did you lower it?

Thank you they are 16 inch rims and the car was lowered one inch in the front. Unfortunately I no longer own the car had to sell it when the divorce started but at least it has a very good home in Ottawa where it is being taken very good care of.
Hoping once I get the Fiero I have now done it will be just as nice.
If you need any wiring diagrams or help with your harness or mounts just ask. Dan

Thanks.

It looks good, and I may do the same thing. Thanks for the offer about wiring diagrams, etc. I'm not there, yet, but I will be. I'm taking this slow since funding is always important.