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Headlight Experts? by gem1138
Started on: 12-14-2013 06:10 PM
Replies: 8 (260 views)
Last post by: gem1138 on 12-16-2013 10:10 AM
gem1138
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Report this Post12-14-2013 06:10 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Early this week my left headlight refused to rise to the occasion without assistance. I had to resort to opening the deck lid, turning on the lights and then closing the deck lid. I got Rodney to overnight me a couple of his rebuild kits (Thanks Rodney) and went to work at midday.

Much to my disappointment all of the internal parts looked as new. I installed the kit nonetheless with no change resulting.
Then I compared two headlight assemblies and found the bad one made a clunk sound. That turned out to be a magnet that had come loose. I fixed that but no change except for the absence of the clunk.

So I compared the two assemblies again and found that with both in the halfway up position, I could push the bad one back down with little effort and the good one not.

So I removed the gear assembly from the bad one and found that the machined output shaft would rotate inside the cast metal hub.
That doesn’t seem right. I am considering an attempt to prevent this with JB weld.

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Gall757
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Report this Post12-14-2013 06:24 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
You need to tell us what year car..
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gem1138
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Report this Post12-14-2013 06:26 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Its an 88
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Report this Post12-14-2013 06:31 PM Click Here to See the Profile for Gall757Send a Private Message to Gall757Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I don't think JB weld will be up to the task.

https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122631.html
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gem1138
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Report this Post12-15-2013 11:23 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I awoke with a better idea. I drilled a small hole through the hub at an angle into the output shaft. Then I broke off the back end of the drill bit and pushed it into the hole with JB weld to secure it. It was instantly fixed.

Hence the old saying: "It's better to sleep on it."
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theogre
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Report this Post12-15-2013 12:35 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Careful, Iffy module can break dowels and/or the joint where output shaft meets pot metal part.

Dowels are a mechanical "fuse" that beaks before gears get stripped, etc. Sometime the output shaft joint strips first.

What color are the old dowels? Maybe dowels was replace before and now the "Weak Point" is output shaft joint and/or the gear teeth.
example: https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/126080.html

Some have done pins/screws to fix the pot metal. Of those... many have problem later, like Broken the pins/screws, output shaft, etc.

some of How system works etc...
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

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gem1138
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Report this Post12-16-2013 07:13 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Weird, I posted a response yesterday. The day before I posted a response that didn't make it too.

Anyway, the old dowels like the new ones are white.
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Report this Post12-16-2013 09:57 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
White likely mean already replace.
OE ones are off white to yellowish tint. Like about skim milk color.
Look for small plastic "crumbs" left behind.

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gem1138
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Report this Post12-16-2013 10:10 AM Click Here to See the Profile for gem1138Send a Private Message to gem1138Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Well actually, they could have been off white. I took the grease to be white lithium grease that had turned beige with age. The dowels were coated with the grease lightly and unevenly, so their color varied.

This car had 30k miles on it when I got it 6 1/2 years ago and the last two owners (brothers) hardly drove it. They seemed more to be into preserving it than maintaining it. That makes it seemmore likely that they were original.
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