Early this week my left headlight refused to rise to the occasion without assistance. I had to resort to opening the deck lid, turning on the lights and then closing the deck lid. I got Rodney to overnight me a couple of his rebuild kits (Thanks Rodney) and went to work at midday.

Much to my disappointment all of the internal parts looked as new. I installed the kit nonetheless with no change resulting.
Then I compared two headlight assemblies and found the bad one made a clunk sound. That turned out to be a magnet that had come loose. I fixed that but no change except for the absence of the clunk.

So I compared the two assemblies again and found that with both in the halfway up position, I could push the bad one back down with little effort and the good one not.

So I removed the gear assembly from the bad one and found that the machined output shaft would rotate inside the cast metal hub.
That doesn’t seem right. I am considering an attempt to prevent this with JB weld.

Coments?

You need to tell us what year car..

Its an 88

I don't think JB weld will be up to the task.

http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/122631.html

I awoke with a better idea. I drilled a small hole through the hub at an angle into the output shaft. Then I broke off the back end of the drill bit and pushed it into the hole with JB weld to secure it. It was instantly fixed.

Hence the old saying: "It's better to sleep on it."

Careful, Iffy module can break dowels and/or the joint where output shaft meets pot metal part.

Dowels are a mechanical "fuse" that beaks before gears get stripped, etc. Sometime the output shaft joint strips first.

What color are the old dowels? Maybe dowels was replace before and now the "Weak Point" is output shaft joint and/or the gear teeth.
example: http://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/126080.html

Some have done pins/screws to fix the pot metal. Of those... many have problem later, like Broken the pins/screws, output shaft, etc.

some of How system works etc...
See my Cave, Gen 2 HL Motor

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Weird, I posted a response yesterday. The day before I posted a response that didn't make it too.

Anyway, the old dowels like the new ones are white.

White likely mean already replace.
OE ones are off white to yellowish tint. Like about skim milk color.
Look for small plastic "crumbs" left behind.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)

The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

Well actually, they could have been off white. I took the grease to be white lithium grease that had turned beige with age. The dowels were coated with the grease lightly and unevenly, so their color varied.

This car had 30k miles on it when I got it 6 1/2 years ago and the last two owners (brothers) hardly drove it. They seemed more to be into preserving it than maintaining it. That makes it seemmore likely that they were original.