How do I take these front rotors off??? 87 4cyl seems the rotors and hub are one assy and there is literally no spindle nut, just solid metal where the axle nut should be???
Are these stock? If so, there is a cap that you have to remove to get to the nut. BTW, the rotor and hub are one unit on the 84-87 fieros. If you haven't done one of these units, get a manual, because you will be dealing with bearings and setting the proper nut tension when reinstalling. You don't just torque the spindle nut down.
[This message has been edited by jaskispyder (edited 12-10-2013).]
Are these stock? If so, there is a cap that you have to remove to get to the nut. BTW, the rotor and hub are one unit on the 84-87 fieros. If you haven't done one of these units, get a manual, because you will be dealing with bearings and setting the proper nut tension when reinstalling. You don't just torque the spindle nut down.
Thats the thing there's literally no spindle nut. Just a solid metal indent where the nut should be.
At the bottom of this page is a button titled "Pennock's Image Poster". Click it and follow the instructions, assuming you don't have a Mac............. (edit) Is it possible you have an 88 rather than an 87? Look at your front shocks. Do they go up the center of the coil spring (88) or are they behind the coil spring (84-87). If it is an 88 front end, the rotors are separate from the hubs, but may be rusted on.....
------------------ Rod Schneider, Ball Ground, Ga. "You can't have too many toys!" 1988 Fiero GT 1987 Porsche 944S 1987 Corvette 1966 Porsche 911 2001 Chrysler 300M Van's RV-6 airplane
[This message has been edited by Rodrv6 (edited 12-10-2013).]
At the bottom of this page is a button titled "Pennock's Image Poster". Click it and follow the instructions, assuming you don't have a Mac............. (edit) Is it possible you have an 88 rather than an 87? Look at your front shocks. Do they go up the center of the coil spring (88) or are they behind the coil spring (84-87). If it is an 88 front end, the rotors are separate from the hubs, but may be rusted on.....
Im on my droid. Looks like yall might needa wait till I go home from work tonight. Someones gotta pay for dem dta housing recipients, ya know.
This. Look for the pic of the hub that has a solid center
This one? If so, double check the VIN to see if you have an 88. If not, then someone changed out the front spindles to hubs. Either way, the rotor is stuck on to the hub and has to be removed. The bolts that hold the hub unit on are under the rotor (and hub flange).
Are there small metal clips on the wheel studs? They're put on at the factory to hold the rotor in place on the assembly line.
Yes there are. Guys either this is an 88 or an 87 with 88 hubs but if I hit these rotors any harder im scared for my suspension this car sat for 6 yrs and has the original rotors on it as I can tell from the clips to hold the rotors on. What should I do to take them off amd should I return my old rotors then? I dont think this rotor/hub assy will fit on my car?
For any one I didnt directly respond to sry its a pita on my droid (I mean tracking device) but I aniahlated the rotor with a sledgehammer and took a chunk out of it but good news it broke loose!
Best way to hit the rotors to get them off - use a 3 or 5 lb hammer and smack the rotor on the front face right between the wheel studs. You'd think that hitting them from behind would work better but it doesn't. Hitting them on the face really loosens up the rust that is holding it to the hub.
Does the rear of the car have a lower control arm and a ball joint or does it have three links connecting to the knuckle? The three link is an 88
[This message has been edited by TONY_C (edited 12-10-2013).]
General view is Yes....that's good. You will like the suspension, but work a little harder maintaining an 88 Duke.
Brake parts are completely different and sometimes hard to find,,, which I am sure you are learning right now..
Yes I am finding this out now, as I am currently looking at re-shipping pads, rotors, and calipers back to rock auto that I already paid like 60+$ to ship to me at cheapest rates. Rock auto has also become a TERRIBLE rip off with their shipping.
best way to get the rotors off isn't with a hammer. Use an air hammer between the wheel studs and vibrate the rotor with it. That breaks the corrosion. Also use some penetrating oil sprayed at the base of the studs.
best way to get the rotors off isn't with a hammer. Use an air hammer between the wheel studs and vibrate the rotor with it. That breaks the corrosion. Also use some penetrating oil sprayed at the base of the studs.
Yeah there was no way an air hammer was gonna touch this rust not to burst your bubble but I have never had rotors so rusted on a car in my entire life that I was seriously thinking they were all part of the hub and I was doing something wrong. Theres literally chunks taken out of these rotors from pounding them off with a sledge.. and i'd say each rotor took about a good 40 whacks with a sledge to bust em loose. I think ill do wheel bearings too with the damage I likely did. anyways we can conclude this problem is solved. thanks.
Yeah.. If your talking about front 88 bearings, Rodney dickman.com or you have to make some from 84-87 rear bearings.. Do a search on here, or go see dickman.
Cheers, best of luck with the 88. It's worth the hassle.
For any one I didnt directly respond to sry its a pita on my droid (I mean tracking device) but I aniahlated the rotor with a sledgehammer and took a chunk out of it but good news it broke loose!
And you likely annihilated the wheel bearing as well...
Yeah.. If your talking about front 88 bearings, Rodney dickman.com or you have to make some from 84-87 rear bearings.. Do a search on here, or go see dickman.
Cheers, best of luck with the 88. It's worth the hassle.
Not to hijack the thread but how do you make front bearings for an 88 out of 84-87 rears?
Not to hijack the thread but how do you make front bearings for an 88 out of 84-87 rears?
To sum it up quick; Take the pre 88 rear bearing assembly, fill the axle hole with a large bolt or threaded rod and weld it up so it doesn't crush under the vehicle weight and adapt the flange to fit.
To sum it up quick; Take the pre 88 rear bearing assembly, fill the axle hole with a large bolt or threaded rod and weld it up so it doesn't crush under the vehicle weight and adapt the flange to fit.
It's not that easy, or we'd have been doing it all along. It's not a direct bolt-in. It requires special (and expensive) knuckles from Araut. (formerly Held Motorsports).
Just get Rodney Dickman's replacements. You won't find any that are better, and some that are marginal at best. Or look for used ones in the Mall section of this Forum. Check the seller's rating.
------------------ Raydar 88 Formula IMSA Fastback. 4.9, NVG T550 Praise the Lowered!
I have had a few cars titled the wrong year, it must be many times the person at the counter just takes the person applying for a titles word for it.
That happens more than you would expect...especially ones built around the model changover. I had a Mercedes SL titled as a 73. Every time I bought parts they were wrong...especially brakes which were completely different. Turned out mine was built right at the switchover and used 72 brakes. They apparently just use whatever is in stock at the time of assembly till they run out. One of my Corvettes also had the previous years seats in it from the factory. Ive really seen it a lot on paint colors. When they had a LOT of left over color at the model switch, they just used it up and called it a 'Special Edition', putting on a sticker/emblem saying that.
