Pennock's Fiero Forum
  Technical Discussion & Questions
  Shifter Console Rebuild with Photos

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Email This Page to Someone! | Printable Version


next newest topic | next oldest topic
Shifter Console Rebuild with Photos by hnthomps
Started on: 11-30-2013 09:49 PM
Replies: 1 (1198 views)
Last post by: gtoformula on 11-30-2013 10:38 PM
hnthomps
Member
Posts: 5728
From: Columbia, SC
Registered: Jul 2003


Feedback score:    (18)
Leave feedback





Total ratings: 51
Rate this member

Report this Post11-30-2013 09:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for hnthompsSend a Private Message to hnthompsEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Many of us are faced with the necessity to either buy a new shifter console or rebuild the existing one due to delamination and adhesive failures over the years. I recently pulled the shifter console from an 87 Mera that I have been restoring for a while. The face plate had totally detached from the surround and was only held in place by a short shifter and boot. Every time I shifted the face plate lifted up from the surround and dangled. This is a bit disconcerting as well as unsightly. Since I am sometimes cheap and wanted to maintain this part of the car as original, I elected to try a rebuild and see what happened. Along the way I took a few photos and discovered some processes that worked and some that I should have avoided. I was more interested in the process than photos for most of the time so I am a bit short on documenting photos. However, I will share what I have and they may be helpful for you.

The first step was to remove the shift console from the center console assembly. This involves pulling the screws from the ash tray area and removing the shift knob and associated lock nut to free up the assembly. I then removed the four nuts fastening the leather shifter boot to the back of the face plate.

Then you are left with the exposed surround and the detached shifter plate. I removed all remaining adhesive with a knife and then cleaned the plate and console with denatured alcohol. There were the standard gaps and deformities when the face plate was laid on the surround material. The initially selected replacement adhesive was silicone. This turned out to be a reasonable choice and has been utilized by others previously. There is also the problem as to how to hold everything together and in proper alignment as the glue dries. My solution was to use a lot of clamps of assorted sizes.



It worked pretty well if you did not mind the console looking like a porcupine for a day or so. After I released the clamps the job looked pretty nice and I had high hopes. I did clean up some of the silicone that extruded from the bond area and thought that the repair was acceptable with respect to looks. Note that the clamps are all around the four sides of the shifter plate console bonding area as well as additional long clamps to maintain the appropriate console surround shape.















Unfortunately for me, the shifter plate totally separated when I picked up the unit to reinstall it in the car. It was then back to the drawing board for a better adhesive. After removing all silicone adhesive, I once again cleaned the pieces with alcohol. Then I decided to try Gorilla Glue. The porcupine once again appeared and I let everything dry for 24 hours.











One thing that you need to know that it expands 25-50% (my estimate) as it dries and is a different color than my dark gray console with a dark gray shifter plate. The cure for this issue is a very sharp blade to cut away the excess glue and a relatively dull blade from a small pocket knife to remove the remaining visible adhesive from the front of the shifter plate and surround. This took a bit of time but was not too difficult.

This repair looked better than the first effort and did not separate from the surround so I declared success, reassembled the entire console, and applied a new five speed shift pattern sticker since my old one had disappeared several years back.







I plan to reinstall the repaired console into the car this week and drive it for a while to see how the repair holds up. If there are any issues I will update this thread (providing there is any interest) to let you know what happened and any solution to the problem.

Nelson

[This message has been edited by hnthomps (edited 11-30-2013).]

IP: Logged
PFF
System Bot
gtoformula
Member
Posts: 761
From: Double Oak, TX USA
Registered: Feb 2012


Feedback score:    (15)
Leave feedback

Rate this member

Report this Post11-30-2013 10:38 PM Click Here to See the Profile for gtoformulaSend a Private Message to gtoformulaEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Yep. Gorilla Glue. That's what I used for my interior and the bond seems to be holding up. I also did the shift surround plus console, door arm rests, aux gauge surround and the HVAC/radio surround. I also used clamps but didn't have enough so I did each section separately. I am currently refinishing all the plastic pieces listed above plus the panels that fit around the interior door opening. I replaced the dash first after refinishing it and the other parts looked tired in comparison. The paint that I used is SEM Colorcoat. Bought mine at English Color. It goes on evenly, dries quickly and looks great after it cures. $15/can and we'll worth it.
IP: Logged

next newest topic | next oldest topic

All times are ET (US)

Post New Topic  Post A Reply
Hop to:

Contact Us | Back To Main Page

Advertizing on PFF | Fiero Parts Vendors
PFF Merchandise | Fiero Gallery | Ogre's Cave
Real-Time Chat | Fiero Related Auctions on eBay



Copyright (c) 1999, C. Pennock