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Emergency brake seized by newfiejeff
Started on: 11-30-2013 03:34 PM
Replies: 14 (284 views)
Last post by: David Hambleton on 12-02-2013 03:41 PM
newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-30-2013 03:34 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Hey, just tried to get my emergency brake to work and it looks like it is awful stiff on the drivers side and pretty much seized on the passenger side. So what I am looking at? I am going to do the brakes and rotors over the next couple of weeks.

Any input?
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Patrick
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Report this Post11-30-2013 03:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for PatrickSend a Private Message to PatrickEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post

Check the cables.
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-30-2013 03:48 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
cables are good
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tebailey
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Report this Post11-30-2013 06:20 PM Click Here to See the Profile for tebaileySend a Private Message to tebaileyEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Make sure the levers on the calipers are releasing.
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-30-2013 06:23 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The levers is what is jamming/seizing, the driver side I can get to move but hard and the passenger side I can't get to move. I don' have the calipers off yet, so do i have to take the caliber apart/strip down to free it up?
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David Hambleton
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Report this Post11-30-2013 06:39 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The levers need to come off before you try to compress the cylinder to get the calipers off.
Check Ogre's Cave about brakes.
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-30-2013 06:47 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
What I mean by levers is the brackets that is on the caliper that the cable attaches to. So you are saying that may move more free once the calibers are off the car? I checked the cave and it didn't really tell me much about seized emergency brake and what to do to free it up.
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theogre
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Report this Post11-30-2013 07:42 PM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Seize lever(s) means trouble.
Likely causes are Bad piston and/or corrosion in the caliper hole.

DIY rebuilt on rear calipers is often a waist of time and money.
Internet has directions taking piston apart but is not a good idea. Some rebuilt companies use same thing and result is many rebuilt are bad out of box or soon after installing. Make sure you get a long warranty.

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newfiejeff
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Report this Post11-30-2013 11:01 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the reply, but what is everyone else doing?
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johnt671
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Report this Post12-01-2013 08:53 AM Click Here to See the Profile for johnt671Send a Private Message to johnt671Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I replaced both rear calipers when I did the rear brakes on my 84. I went through six calipers from Auto Zone and two from Advance Auto before I gave up. I ordered two from from The Fiero Store and got two good ones. Job finally done.
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David Hambleton
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Report this Post12-01-2013 09:04 AM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
It's probably best to get new or rebuilt calipers when the parking brake isn't working well.

Rebuilt calipers should have thread inserts for the bleed screws as the caliper's aluminum threads are weak and prone to failure. It's frustrating to install them & find out during bleeding that there were only a couple of good threads left. (I've had two like that.)

If the hand brake is used every time the car is driven, it helps the system stays working.
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post12-02-2013 11:24 AM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I called one place and they told me that they have a once in a lifetime replacement, but in the same breath they told me that they have no way of tracking replacements so basically I have a lifetime warranty as long as I have my receipt.

They cost $13 dollars more then other stores selling them with a 1 year warranty.

So where do you think I am going to go.

Will I check when I replace the rotors and pads if the caliber will get freed up or is it just as easy to replace the whole works?
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ag9123
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Report this Post12-02-2013 01:53 PM Click Here to See the Profile for ag9123Send a Private Message to ag9123Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I just got two rear calipers from NAPA. The RR leaked like a sieve right off the bat... I ended up going with the Grand Am brake mod. No emergency brake now but at least I can stop...
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newfiejeff
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Report this Post12-02-2013 03:09 PM Click Here to See the Profile for newfiejeffSend a Private Message to newfiejeffEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Napa is who I was going with. Now I am wondering, they have the best warranty. I also need an emergency brake.
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David Hambleton
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Report this Post12-02-2013 03:41 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I would make sure the bleeder hole threads are ok before accepting the calipers if they're rebuilds. If they're ok, you'll likely be ok. If they look worn or weak, ask for others. This is advice based on experiences.
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