Hey, just tried to get my emergency brake to work and it looks like it is awful stiff on the drivers side and pretty much seized on the passenger side. So what I am looking at? I am going to do the brakes and rotors over the next couple of weeks.
The levers is what is jamming/seizing, the driver side I can get to move but hard and the passenger side I can't get to move. I don' have the calipers off yet, so do i have to take the caliber apart/strip down to free it up?
What I mean by levers is the brackets that is on the caliper that the cable attaches to. So you are saying that may move more free once the calibers are off the car? I checked the cave and it didn't really tell me much about seized emergency brake and what to do to free it up.
Seize lever(s) means trouble. Likely causes are Bad piston and/or corrosion in the caliper hole.
DIY rebuilt on rear calipers is often a waist of time and money. Internet has directions taking piston apart but is not a good idea. Some rebuilt companies use same thing and result is many rebuilt are bad out of box or soon after installing. Make sure you get a long warranty.
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
I replaced both rear calipers when I did the rear brakes on my 84. I went through six calipers from Auto Zone and two from Advance Auto before I gave up. I ordered two from from The Fiero Store and got two good ones. Job finally done.
It's probably best to get new or rebuilt calipers when the parking brake isn't working well.
Rebuilt calipers should have thread inserts for the bleed screws as the caliper's aluminum threads are weak and prone to failure. It's frustrating to install them & find out during bleeding that there were only a couple of good threads left. (I've had two like that.)
If the hand brake is used every time the car is driven, it helps the system stays working.
I called one place and they told me that they have a once in a lifetime replacement, but in the same breath they told me that they have no way of tracking replacements so basically I have a lifetime warranty as long as I have my receipt.
They cost $13 dollars more then other stores selling them with a 1 year warranty.
So where do you think I am going to go.
Will I check when I replace the rotors and pads if the caliber will get freed up or is it just as easy to replace the whole works?
I would make sure the bleeder hole threads are ok before accepting the calipers if they're rebuilds. If they're ok, you'll likely be ok. If they look worn or weak, ask for others. This is advice based on experiences.