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New member with some questions. by black84se
Started on: 11-28-2013 04:44 PM
Replies: 12 (243 views)
Last post by: 85 SE VIN 9 on 12-01-2013 08:49 PM
black84se
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Report this Post11-28-2013 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for black84seClick Here to Email black84seSend a Private Message to black84seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
My name is Pete and I just purchased an 84 black se. My research of the car has lead me to believe that the suspension on the 84 was not all that good. Now my question is are all 84's the same? What is the difference between se and 2m4? More specifically did the se come with a ws6 suspension package and if so what is the difference and is it still a poor package? This is my first Fiero but I am a long time Pontiac fan. I live in PA between Scranton and Williamsport and was wondering if there are any Fiero owners close to me? Thanks in advance for the input and I look forward to hearing from you guys.
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David Hambleton
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Report this Post11-28-2013 07:37 PM Click Here to See the Profile for David HambletonClick Here to Email David HambletonSend a Private Message to David HambletonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
According to the original 1984 brochure & the Enthusiast's Guide to the Pontiac Fiero, the WS6 package was standard on the SE & Indy & optional on the rest. I understand the springs & shocks were stiffer.

I've had an '84 SE since new - it has 363,000 kilometers (225,500 miles) on it now & I'm more comfortable cornering hard in it than my '88 Formula with 24,000 kilometers (14,900 miles). It could be the tires & the engine power; the '88 tends to go straight.
(I should add that I seem to be the only person who expresses this kind of opinion...)
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GTMN
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Report this Post11-29-2013 01:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for GTMNClick Here to Email GTMNSend a Private Message to GTMNEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
The 84 shares essentially the same suspension as the 85-87 models, with the exception of slightly differing spring rates and shock dampening. Your research results have most likely stemmed from the fact that the rear suspension was a slightly modified front suspension from another GM car ( the Chevy Celebrity I believe) and the front suspension was taken from the inglorious Chevette. In 88 the suspension was upgraded to a suspension, actually designed for the Fiero, with 3 link rear and improved front geometry. That said, the 84-87 suspension isn't horrible but also isn't great. The ride on the 84-87s is, in my opinion, a little more forgiving, but the handling on the 88s is much improved by the updated suspension design. Hope that helps and welcome to the Fiero family.
Mark
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theogre
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Report this Post11-29-2013 01:40 AM Click Here to See the Profile for theogreClick Here to visit theogre's HomePageSend a Private Message to theogreEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
WS6 package is shown RPO label next to brake MC.

Springs RPO codes in my Cave, RPO List

Before buying anything...
See my cave, suspension section.

------------------
Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should.
(Jurassic Park)


The Ogre's Fiero Cave (It's also at the top and bottom of every forum page...)

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black84se
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Report this Post11-29-2013 10:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for black84seClick Here to Email black84seSend a Private Message to black84seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Thanks for the info. It needs some minor cosmetic stuff but I am gonna enjoy the ride for awhile. First thing I need is headlights and don't have enough loot for leds so I was considering a projector style unit with the built in city light. I have played with the light switch and found that after turning them on I can back the switch out enough to keep doors up but lights out. This should have a cool look with the city lights on with the parking lights.....any thoughts on that??????
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post11-30-2013 10:27 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
People have done that. I like to cut the white wire to the headlight switch and install a switch. The white wire is the signal for the lights to go down. Without that signal they stay up. I've used an on/off switch, but a pushbutton might be even better. When you want the light buckets down you just press until they're down.
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black84se
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Report this Post12-01-2013 11:26 AM Click Here to See the Profile for black84seClick Here to Email black84seSend a Private Message to black84seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
So lights will go up and on when switch is on and lights will go off and doors will stay up when switch is turned off? And a separate switch to control the doors going down ? When splicing white wire do you need a power source as well?
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fierofool
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Report this Post12-01-2013 03:06 PM Click Here to See the Profile for fierofoolClick Here to visit fierofool's HomePageClick Here to Email fierofoolSend a Private Message to fierofoolEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Black84SE, there's no need to cut and splice wires to do what you want. The switch is designed so that when the lights are on, you can catch the top of the main rocker switch and pull back on it with the pad of your finger. It will cut power to the headlight bulb but leave instrument, side marker and parking lights on, but will leave the assembly raised. Pressing the bottom bar will power the headlight assembly down and cut power to the bulb.
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black84se
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Report this Post12-01-2013 03:43 PM Click Here to See the Profile for black84seClick Here to Email black84seSend a Private Message to black84seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I think that is what I was doing when I was playing with switch. Only down side is it was requiring me to use both hands. I will take another look at switch and try it how you mention. Thanks for the input.
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post12-01-2013 04:44 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
 
quote
Originally posted by black84se:

So lights will go up and on when switch is on and lights will go off and doors will stay up when switch is turned off? And a separate switch to control the doors going down ? When splicing white wire do you need a power source as well?


The second switch just interrupts the signal that tells the lights to go down. You don't have to have any power because the headlight system has power at all times. Anytime you turn the extra switch on, it's as if you had never cut the wire and the headlights will do what they would have done in that circumstance. So if the headlights are on, or off and down, nothing will happen. Otherwise they will go down. If I get out of work early I turn the switch on to put the buckets down, otherwise they just stay up.

I use a push/pull switch, but like a pushbutton, I only turn it on to lower the buckets. That protects against battery drain due to a bad gear or limit switch because without the signal the headlights aren't trying to go down even if the weak gear or bad limit switch thinks they should.

Make sense?

Look for the Michigan Fiero Club pdf file. That's where I got this trick.

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black84se
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Report this Post12-01-2013 08:05 PM Click Here to See the Profile for black84seClick Here to Email black84seSend a Private Message to black84seEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
just basically interrupting the circuit on the white wire with a switch. should be fairly easy to figure out. Also gonna see if just backing the top part of switch back a bit is gonna be a sensible solution. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
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rogergarrison
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Report this Post12-01-2013 08:32 PM Click Here to See the Profile for rogergarrisonClick Here to Email rogergarrisonSend a Private Message to rogergarrisonEdit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
I always modified my lights to be permanent without doors opening. I cant help but think that those in cold states have the most door motor failures from trying to open or close when frozen with ice. I recommend those people leave their headlites up by unplugging them in winter. I dont think the plastic gears take that abuse well. Cars that have nylon ribbons to operate power windows also have the same problem. Both those motors are a lot stronger than you think.
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85 SE VIN 9
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Report this Post12-01-2013 08:49 PM Click Here to See the Profile for 85 SE VIN 9Click Here to Email 85 SE VIN 9Send a Private Message to 85 SE VIN 9Edit/Delete MessageReply w/QuoteDirect Link to This Post
Exactly, Roger. That's what they say at the Michigan Fiero Club, 'leave your lights up while you run errands --or until spring'.
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