I have an '84 pace car with 62,335 miles. I've been storing it for awhile. I'm gonna do some things to it and start driving it next year. Since it's been in storage it developed a leak at the axle output seal on the driver's side. I replaced it with a 3543 seal from oreilly's. I assume they gave me the right seal. It looks identical to the original. Well, it leaks too. I cleaned all surface rust off the shaft and used grease when installing it. The transmission case looked fine where the seal goes in. Looks like it is leaking where the shaft and seal contacts. It didn't leak when I bought it in March,2011 and have driven it very, very little. The fiero factory emailed me and said it could be worn differential carrier bearings. To me , this seems unlikely with only 62,335 miles. Any opinions?
Bearing and/or axle have problems. Seal install w/o sealer. See my Cave, Axle
------------------ Dr. Ian Malcolm: Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should. (Jurassic Park)
Grab the axles and push-pull with some force. If they click a little that is OK, but if you can see movement over .050" or so.....the bearings are worn.
I put in 3 quarts of 5w30, not synthetic. I put this seal in a 2 or 3 months ago. As I remember, there was no outward play on the shaft. I used a ball joint separator(fork) and I remember it being very tight when popping it loose.The tool worked good. I made my own driver that let me get out past the strut to drive the seal in. It seemed everything went together as it should. Oh yeah, I didn't drive it after I put the seal in. Just drained the oil back out. Didn't want oil on the floor. Would storing it on jack stands have anything to do with it, since the suspension is unloaded?
How did you install the seals? I had to redo mine when they leaked. Checking them I saw that I did not get them seated tight. Also had a few rust pits on the drivers side axle. Made sure the second set was seated and replaced the axle. All is fine now. Also put in syncromesh fluid. Shifts like a dream.
[This message has been edited by tebailey (edited 11-27-2013).]
Well, I guess i'm just gonna redo it. Maybe try sealer instead of grease. I've never done that before and I've never had one leak before. My shaft had rust pits. I just wire-wheeled the whole shaft. It looks like new. Maybe I'll get a new shaft too. Thanks for the replies.
One more thing for now. Has anyone used the fiero store's axle stabilizer bearing and seal? Are they worth $159.95?
They almost always leak since the seal is less flexible than the stock seal. Plus if you really want then you can get them for both sides for about $50 elsewhere.
I put in 3 quarts of 5w30, not synthetic. I put this seal in a 2 or 3 months ago. As I remember, there was no outward play on the shaft. ... Would storing it on jack stands have anything to do with it, since the suspension is unloaded?
out/in = axial play. side play = radial play.
Seal doesn't care much about axial play but Too much radial play will make new seals leak oil.
store when axle "unloaded" trans doesn't care.
quote
Originally posted by mark schuyler sipe: One more thing for now. Has anyone used the fiero store's axle stabilizer bearing and seal? Are they worth $159.95?
Not at any price. They are a band-aid fix and often causes other problems, including axle failure. Search PFF archives.
Wire brushing isn't good enough for an axle seal surface. They need to be polished with an equivalent surface finish of RMS 16 or better. Otherwise they will leak. I can tell you I had a 4T60 that was GM overhauled but had a leaking axle seal after 10K miles. Upon investigating it turns out someone forgot to put the axle bushing back in it. Replaced the housing with a used one that had the bushing in it, replaced the wheel seal and put it back together. No leaks since.
If there is any pitting on the shaft it needs to be polished or use a Redi-sleeve/speedi-sleeve to repair.
Axle seals are delicate. Inserting and removing the axles often ruins seals, not just Fieros. The neoprene can be cut by splines. The circular seal spring can be stretched by the weight of the axle end during withdrawal and insertion. Take the load off with a support or second set of hands. The RMS (surface finish ) of the seal journal must be correct, without nicks. Axle removal is probably the biggest source of problems. You normally cannot see the damage. My 88 came from the factory with a leaking out put seal.
