I'll try starting fluid just to say I did but I think it's an electrical issue, not fuel. If it was simpler I would add in a fuel pressure gauge but it sounds like an expensive pain in the ass.
Timing is correct, 4,3,2,1 on the motor, left to right and 2 3 4 1 On the brick. Interestingly enough, In that thread the Ogre mentions a ground strap going from the stud on the ICM brick to a stud on the bell housing. He says he has both studs, but no ground. I’ve got the same, 2 studs, no ground strap. Could this cause all the problems I’m having, a missing ground strap on the ICM brick??
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 01-06-2014).]
Thanks Gall757, unfortunately the link in that thread to the Jegs adapter doesn't work or i'd order one now as adding that in seems simple enough once you get the right parts.
Plastic timing gear failure, Cracked head or block, failed compression rings. Check compression, find out how many volts are in the spark, valves sticking open, bad fuel, return fuel line clogged, wrong fuel pump.
Recalabrated fuel sender? Throttle wheel thing? Some thing is up and might be one of these. I never recalabrated a fuel sender but think I can but why did you have to? I know your trying to save money but if I wasn't a certified Mechanic I'd send it to one to diagnose the problem then fix it myself.
Recalabrated fuel sender? Throttle wheel thing? Some thing is up and might be one of these. I never recalabrated a fuel sender but think I can but why did you have to? I know your trying to save money but if I wasn't a certified Mechanic I'd send it to one to diagnose the problem then fix it myself.
Recalabrating the sending unit is easy to do and fixes the common issue of the fuel gauge reading 1/4 when it's actually empty. https://www.fiero.nl/forum/Forum2/HTML/092117.html I did this when i dropped the tank to replace the dead pump. The throttle wheel thing is what the throttle cable goes to on the engine, mine was stuck from sitting. Another easy fix but neither are the problem at the moment...unfortunately.
Added ground strap from ICM to chassis, douched it with starting fluid while cranking = no change. Now that I don't believe fuel is a problem it's got to be an electrical issue. Yes? I will check the compression on each cylinder when I can, like most we're heading into record cold and she's outside so it might not be until this weekend. I'm going to order the Schrader "T" valve for the fuel line as well. Again I don't think that's the problem but it might be a good thing to have assuming I get her up and running.
I wish somebody had mentioned this a few months ago. I didn't know there was a plastic timing gear that can strip and all you need to do is peek in the valve cover while cranking. I'll be pissed if I’ve spent all this time and money on a dead motor. Will check the valves in a couple days when it warms up to above freezing.
I checked the valves and they're moving so "whew" it's not the timing gears. I ordered this off eBay today for $29 (edit pic not working) its an actron fuel pressure test kit it should be here mid week. Tomorrow I'll check compression and then after that....??
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 01-11-2014).]
Update; I checked the compression and all is good... I cranked each cylinder at least 4 revolutions and got up to a little over 150 psi and each cylinder was basically the same PSI so that's not the issue. After I reconnected everything I told my helper (wife) to crank it over and the same thing, ran half ass coughing and sputtering like it was way off timing. Then I told her to try it again while I manually operated the throttle and the little F'er RAN! Sure she sounded terrible but it ran longer than it has since we got it so that tells me the TB is the issue. it's not fuel, it's not electrical ...it's AIR! I don't think she can BREATH! I'm guessing that the AIC needs to be removed and cleaned but at this point, I might as well pull the whole TB and rebuild it. I'll let you know what happens afterwards. ( fingers crossed) edit to add; yes new feel pump and new filters all around.
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 01-12-2014).]
Boy almost sounds like a crank sensor. I had one go bad and the darned car was missing and spitting running rough and just running bad. It did this for a few days before I got a new sensor. They are not expensive and not to hard to replace. I think I have one or a couple left over.
One of the many parts I’ve already replaced with no real improvement unfortunately. Cracking the throttle blade open a hair allowed it to run. Again it didn’t sound right but it ran until I let it close, then it coughed and died. Rebuilding the TB may not solve the problem but it’s one more thing I can cross off the list. By the time I get her running everything will be new! ...and I'll be broke HA!
[This message has been edited by DLCLK87GT (edited 01-14-2014).]
