What is the best way to remove a broken plug from a 2.5L 1988 engine? When trying to remove the plug, only the body of the plug came out. In other words, it left the threads in the head and only the porcelain with the tip came out. I can see into the cylinder head. The engine is still in the car. I haven't removed the head yet. Thanks MrRich
What is the best way to remove a broken plug from a 2.5L 1988 engine? When trying to remove the plug, only the body of the plug came out. In other words, it left the threads in the head and only the porcelain with the tip came out. I can see into the cylinder head. The engine is still in the car. I haven't removed the head yet. Thanks MrRich
Soak it with PB Blaster then use an ease out...Used this methodba few times...
If you soak it for a few days, odds are it will come out in one piece....you can get one of those inspection cameras if you think there is still something in the cylinder.
One word: heat. Once you soak it with release agent, use a torch & get it as hot as you can. Let it cool a little, then use the ease-out to back it out. Don't break the ease-out or you'll open a whole new can or worms... ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"
I had to do this recently to my 1987 Fiero GT 2.8L V6. Unfortunately, the previous owner never replaced the front spark plugs!
First, I flipped a six inch extension socket and attached it to a number five screw extractor (easy out). Second, I attached a seven sixteenth (7/16th) inch star socket to a three eighth (3/8th) inch ratchet then I attached the other end of the seven sixteenth (7/16th) inch star socket to the top of the six inch extension socket. Third, I carefully put the improvised ratchet and number five screw extractor (easy out) assembly into the center of the broken spark plug.
After all the tools were carefully lined up I started turning the ratchet counter clockwise or to the left very slowly and steadily. The trick here is to hold the ratchet and the whole tool assembly perfectly horizontal, don’t push it down or pull it up and take your time. Easier said than done on a 2.8L with little room between the firewall and the block. Since the screw extractor is narrow at the tip and gets wider at the top, it will drill down to the broken spark plug as you turn the ratchet more and more. As the screw extractor goes deeper into the broken spark plug, it unscrews the broken spark plug at the same time. For me with the 2.8L, and about twenty minutes because the ratchet would only turn one click at a time, out came the nasty almost thirty year old broken spark plug. I think my neighbors heard some words they never heard before! lol. I put in a new spark plug and my car is good as new.
Picture below is my triumph, and master mechanic award. I am keeping it like that and getting a new number five easy out!!!
[This message has been edited by Robertzep2 (edited 11-24-2013).]
One more question (there always is) Did you use PB Blaster and heat or did you go right after it. What did you do about the debris that was fell into the cylinder head. Thanks again for your help. MrRich
Oops! (What did you do about the debris that was fell into the cylinder head.) Sorry about the above sentence!! It should have read ...."What did you do about the debris that fell into the cylinder head" MR
Looking at that picture, the remains of the threads on the end of the plug you removed are trashed. Just from that picture I would expect that the threads in the spark plug hole on the head were also damaged.
Looking at that picture, the remains of the threads on the end of the plug you removed are trashed. Just from that picture I would expect that the threads in the spark plug hole on the head were also damaged.
Yeah, I thought so at first, but the new plug went right in no problems. Car started right up afterwards. Lucky, I guess.
